engine hieght and prop contribute to chine walking and can be the actual cause not so much hull design prop torque wants to turn boat to right you instincly correct pulling it left this creates a slight wobble motion wetted surfaces shifting left to right can get out of control real quick lower unit shape also factors in lowering engine center of gravity helps alot old time old school racer ART
This is an excellent thread. I just bought a z118 with a 150, so I likely won't experience chine walk, but I have a solid understanding now if I do experience it. I used to ride sport bikes so the lot of the physics going on there translates well for me. You don't want to break (back off) or accelerate in a skid because you can give up what grip you do have. You have a dollar to spend. You can spend 50 cents on cornering and 50 cents on acceleration, or any combination as long as you don't spend more than a dollar. When you spend more than a dollar you crash. You have to steer out of it and maintain your throttle. Excellent post!
So I saw this video and a few others prior to running my z8-250 hard. But I struggled to fix the chine walk for a couple months till--- I was quickly coming off plane in a narrow spot and didn't want to scare another boater, I twitched steering left and right out of boredom, what I noticed was the exhaust got louder left and quieter right, ( the turning prop vs direction of the correctional twitch) simply by twitching right vs left I could control the boat 85-90 times better. So try that as well when learning. Twitch rite