yes it is
RUMORS ARE CARRIED BY HATERS , SPREAD BY FOOLS , AND ACCEPTED BY IDIOTS !
Landingnet,
I attended one of Doc Samson's HDS classes this past weekend. He explained side scan exactly like you described. Well done.
Like2Fish
Okay here is my issue, besides being only on the water once and playing with my 8. I believe my boat is ahead of the structure being drawn on the screen and when I set a waypoint on the interested object,it does not seem to be very accurate. I have to come back to the waypoint and idle over several times before I can truly pinpoint the structure/cover location. I know marking a structure (especially on side scan) can be decieving, but I have not quite figured out the boat location to the image drawn or where to mark the point exactly. I have not messed with any settings. Any advice and/or settings would be helpful. Another isue may be the internal antenna verses an external.
Here is the deal, and why learning it is important.
Whenever you save a waypoint, the exact location you are saving is the location of the antenna/receiver you are using. If you have an external antenna like the LGC-4000 and have set up your HDS units to use the 4000, then when you save a waypoint you are saving the exact location of your 4000.
If your 4000 antenna is directly over the structure you want to mark, then you are perfect. If your 4000 is near your outboard, and you are viewing the structure from the bow of your boat using a sonar transducer or StructureScan on the trolling motor, then you off by the length of your boat.
This means you could be off by two lengths of your boat if you reapproach the waypoint from the opposite direction the next time you try to find it.
This is why I put my sonar transducer, my StructureScan transducer, and my LGC-4000 as close together as possible when rigging my Ranger.
On my Ranger all three are within 2 feet of each other, and I have all HDS units set to use the 4000 instead of the internal.
When I am fishing from the bow, and find a target I want to save precisely, I switch my 2D sonar transducer or StructureScan on my bow HDS to view the rear sonar or StructureScan transducer (because it is next to my 4000), then I position the boat directly over the target while viewing my front HDS, then save the waypoint. This is why the ethernet network is such an advantage, being able to share transducer like this; and is why the NMEA 2000 network is great, so that you can share an external antenna.
If you are using the internal antennae on two different HDS units located in two different spots on your boat, and you use them both to save waypoints, you really are being sloppy with marking all your waypoints, and you should expect to have difficulty relocating them exactly.
Driving in circles over top of a fishing spot while searching for your target spooks bass, so I avoid it at all costs. By marking it precisely, think of it as a bullseye. I can now approach the target from any direction, and know precisely that it is directly in front of me rather than 20-40 feet to the side!
An additional helpful tip is to name your waypoint with the depth of the water at your target. For instance, I may name a waypoint ÂBoulder 33Â which tells me the boulder is in 33 feet of water. When approaching the waypoint from any direction I can also watch my sonar depth to assist me in gauging how close I am as I approach. I may want to keep my boat in 45 feet of water to cast to the boulder in 33 feet of water; or if the wind is blowing I may want to put my boat in 15 feet of water and cast out to 33 feet to get an uphill retrieve.
Hope this helps to explain it. This is the information that puts more bass in your boat, which is after all, the reason we spend so much money to buy the best electronics.
ciao,
Marc
GPS receiver and unit location have very little to do with most of the waypoints I create.
Generally, I'm using the cursor to mark a location on a sidescan I've just performed.
Yeah, I should have added detail. For example: I was idling a ledge that is ~400 yds long, I was idling out in the river channel watching my side scan. As I would see structure/cover that interested me, I would move the cursor over the item (trying to determine the center of it is prabably my positional error) and mark it as a waypoint. After idling the whole ledge, I went back to each waypoint to fish it, but had problems actually finding the target without idling over it 3 or 4 times and remarking the actual waypoint. While idling over the targets the three or four times I would try and throw a marker buoy out so I could have something visual. This is when I figured that my screen is actually lagging compared to my position. I know I need to spend some more time, but if anyone can help me out, I will gladly take some cliff notes for dummies.
Sorry, but I disagree. How does your unit know what lat and long to assign to your waypoint when you cursor over to your target on side scan to mark it?
The satellites locate your antenna position on the lake, and then your HDS knows by the scale how far to the side of your LSS-1 transducer your target is located, and the bearing to it with relation to the antenna/receiver location as pinpointed by the satellites.
Everything GPS is related to the position of the antenna/receiver. The closer you get your transducers (especially SideScan) to your antenna/receiver, the more accurate your waypoints will be.
ciao,
Marc
OK, that is important additional information. The screen lagging is often a result of your antenna refresh rate setting. The factory default setting is Auto. You will prefer changing it to refresh by "Time" and then change the refresh rate to 1 second.
For even faster screen updates the LGC 4000 does the job.
ciao,
Marc
Good point, Marc. I assume that the LSS1 transducer "thinks" (bases its' positional calculations) on where the LGC4k "knows" it is. It makes sense to locate these as close as possible.
Yes, that is correct. It will come as no surprise that most people don't even give this a second thought when installing their antenna or transducers; instead they put them where they will look good or where they will fit, or where it is the easiest. Then they don't learn how to trust their GPS or Sonar.
ciao,
Marc
Thanks, all that makes sense. I will adjust the refresh rate and hopefully that will help. I plan to get a 4000 at some point, but I have to let the sticker shock of the 8/SS wear off of my recreation planner so she will keep me around!
Does anyone know why my screen is so dark. I have my contrast all the way up and its still really dark. The lake was pretty muddy over the weekend. Not sure if that would cause it or not. My down imaging seemed ok. Let me know what you think. Here's some shots
RUMORS ARE CARRIED BY HATERS , SPREAD BY FOOLS , AND ACCEPTED BY IDIOTS !
My music is about the only thing that seems to be working right.
Hey man my shots looked the same way the other day when it was 25 mph winds and a muddy part of the lake. Went today and it worked like normal lake was a little clearer and no wind.
Thanks hotrod. It was pretty windy that day. 15mph steady wind with 25mph gusts..
<table width="90%" cellspacing=0 cellpadding=0 align=center><tr><td>Quote, originally posted by JustinFromMO »</td></tr><tr><td class="quote">
Does anyone know why my screen is so dark. I have my contrast all the way up and its still really dark.
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First turn down your range setting, I think it`s way to high for that kind of depth.
Try something between 30 and 80 ft and experiment other range settings as well.
Second, for that type of palette turning the contrast up to max is way to high.
The best results with this palette you normally get is to set the contrast between 60 and 72. But again, experiment wiht the settings for best results.
But if you use these settings to start wiht you should get a much better picture.
Another issue this weekend. My mapping went blank (white screen) but my position and trail continued to show. Also, it would also get real blurry (big pixels) and then either clear up or I would have to turn the unit off and restart. Has anyone else experienced this? I have a HDS 8.
sounds like you zoomed it in quickly all the way, and didn't wait long enough for the mapping to catch up. When you zoom in or out multiple levels at once the pixels get blurry while the mapping software is processing the mapping information. When it finishes the pixels become focused and smaller. On some lakes you can zoom in to a small enough area that there are no contour lines showing, so you end up with a white screen showing your position and trail only. Hope this is it.
ciao,
Marc
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