<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BigYoung »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... My suggestion would be to thin the resin/hardener mix with 1/3 lacquer thinner and paint it on until the wood does not absorb any more....</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have read about thinning so that when the solvent evaporates it leaves the resin behind in the wood, but in doing this, using Acetone instead. Is there a difference in which product?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ranger230v »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...on boatbuildercentral. They always use epoxy to waterproof the wood but they never thin it...key is to coat the wood as the air temp is dropping. Wood is full of air, if the temp is rising as you apply the resin, the wood will blow tiny air bubbles = pin holes in your finish and that cuold lead to moisture getting in...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I did read this article and it makes sense with hot vs cold and wood expansion.
I am still researching but it is a valid concept. I had not heard of it before but I appreciate everyone's help on this. Lots of good info.
It will be next weekend for Resin. On Sat. I drilled and finished livewell. Sunday, sand edges & corners and drill plywood to deck.
Cut out the livewell lid, drilled and routered for latch lids, Sanded and screwed plywood to the frame. Getting closer to epoxy resin...
Looking darn good CW. Was the router work hard to do? What kind of screws did you use to connect to the boat?
I am not a skilled wood worker or a slilled power tool guy.
The router was actually pretty easy. Make sure when routering a straight line that you c-clamp a board or nail down a board to use as a guide.
When marking the line or the "latch" holes for the lids I used a wide pencil or sharpie, so that when I went to cut it out, I knew if I routered all the mark out, then I had cut enough.
I screwed the plywood with 2 1/2 inch drywall screws. Because of the support braces and the 3/4 inch plywood, I am not sure if I am going to put "legs" under the framework. I walk on it now and it does not flex at all.
<---200lbs
Great work! I can't wait to see the finished product.
The Bassboat Restoration forum has always been my favorite to watch because of projects like this.
Fortunately a friend (js521) let me use his garage. The forcast is calling for 4-6 in of snow and a week in the high 20's. What a blessing.
I was in sandals and shorts all weekend.
Hung the new deck
Bought a green pigment that is added to resin to color it. I wanted a green color to match the boat where the rod lockers would be visible and not carpeted.
The underside of the rod locker lids and of the new livewell lid.
I will probably paint Enamel just because I don't want to see the wood grain. Everything has been coated twice with epoxy resin and the back deck lid was boarded and re-clothed, as well as the other livewell lid.
In addition, JS521 let me move my boat in so that I could sand & buff and then put carpet in the boat and on the deck while in the garage. I owe him BIG!
Having your boat in a 70 degree garage while outside it is snowing and with 20 degree days = priceless
Has anyone had success painting enamel paint over cured epoxy resin?
I was wondering about paint chips or peeling?
CW,
Exactly how did you cut out your storage lids. I have an expansion project going and its now time for me to cutout my lids but I'm having problems finding/determining the right tool for the job. Thanks. Yours looks wonderful.
CW, I havent painted on resin yet, but I know they make epoxy based primers. So paint will stick to epoxy. At the very least you need to degloss it with maybe 220 grit or 280. To be really safe you might want to use a primer before your top coat, but this might not be necessary. Also if your resin blushed at all, you want to wipe it down before you start sanding. Otherwise your just sanding the surface contamination into the finsh and it will be that much harder to truly get it clean.
It's lookin awsome.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ol JohnnyBoy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">CW,
Exactly how did you cut out your storage lids. I have an expansion project going and its now time for me to cutout my lids but I'm having problems finding/determining the right tool for the job. Thanks. Yours looks wonderful.
I used a skill saw, and a table saw. I marked with a sharpie what I wanted to cut and made sure I did not go over my marks. If you move or get off 1/8 in it is okay. Remember that when you carpet that you will need at least 1/4 inch gap all around the lids and 1/2in for the side with the hinge.
On the cabela's hatch lids, I borrowed a router, c-clamped a 2X4 as a guide all around the opening, because I knew I could not do it freehand, used a flat bit and took off 1/8in deep and 1/2in wide.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ranger230v »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...At the very least you need to degloss it with maybe 220 grit or 280. To be really safe you might want to use a primer before your top coat, but this might not be necessary. ...
I have read that I may run into complication if I try to paint over the cured glossy resin. I think I am going to play the safe card and leave it as is. I don't know yet. I would hate to sand and then have a bonding issue with the enamel. I will say that the wood with the green pigment in the resin almost looks like that fake wood grain plastic composite. It is a definite hulk green heh heh
Man that is a great lookin' boat !! My brother has a 1979 Ranger Green and White but his is the 21' ft. model and has sat in the weather too long !! Man he should have covered it or sold it , what a waste....
Got the Compound and Glaze; worked one side
Here is looking at it from the other way... Looks like a new top cap.
Did not use the wetsand paper. It took it down to silver glitter. So used just compound and I can see reflection. Not bad for a 1979...
Imagine if it was in the sunlight...
Rule #1. Do not paint UNTIL after you carpet. Contact cement eats paint alive.
Decided to paint rod lockers & lids with darker color.
Carpet the deck first...
Deck with lids and Cabelas waterproof hatches in place.
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