So after I had it soak with the Adhesive remover and was not able to get it off. It was suggested I use a wire wheel. So After trying to wire wheel it off...the adhesive was so soft that it smeared more than anything else. It was like trying to spread bubble gum with a putty knife. I tried using acetone but it did not do anything to the softened gummy adhesive. As you can see the floor is not a flat glass, it is more uneven. Ideas?
Have you tried a razorblade scraper? Seems it might work. Just get an empty been can wipe the goo off the blade along the top edge of the can. That or clean the blade with papertowels. I didn't encounter this with my boat but I have removed adhesives on the floor of my house. I bought the 4" wide razorblade scraper sold in the flooring department at lowes or HD.
So I ran down to Home Depot and bought another wire wheel. Cupped and Straight. I had read in other forum threads about the Razor blade scraper, however what we have here is not like the rest of the boat. Everywhere else on the boat has like flat glass bottom.
Except this part which has valleys and divots and little mountains of fiberglass. I am not sure how I would use a razor blade to scrape off because it is not flat.
I worked on it for about 4 hours last night.
Hey cwadams things are looking good. I'll try to stop by and check it out in person. js
After a couple of nights of elbow grease; took it down to the carwash to clean.
Took it home so that I could eat off the front deck (if I wanted to)
Waiting on carpet from Lowe's....
dont forget to treat (waterproof) the wood before you carpet.
I had one of those 1780 Rangers at one time. No dual console though.
Man, that's GREEN!
I know that it has been a while since I posted, but I promise I have been working on the boat. har-har
yes, the boat is ALL GREEN! Blends in to the bank up here in Oregon. I will waterproof the boards. project for this weekend. Fiberglass resin EVERYTHING wood!
Yesterday I finished cleaning up the lids I was going to reuse on the boat.
Livewell dilemma. Do I build the lid, or build up the lip on the well?
I wanted a sealed lid so I did not lose water and I did want to be able to open it all the way in at least 90 degree. there is a 3.5 inch gap between the deck and the lip
Router the edge...
Build up the lip
Router the cabelas waterproof hatch lids these are the 11X21? lids.
Everyone wants to know what products to use. Here is a picture pointing the the cement and adhesive and resin that are the most popular
Modified by cwadams at 9:03 AM 12/3/2008
Got the green carpet that matches what was previously in boat (astroturf)
the original carpet is still in the rod lockers and side lockers (you can see if you scroll up)
Modified by cwadams at 10:31 AM 12/8/2008
Very sweet boat, very vintage. The deck project looks like its going well. Hope to see some pictures when its done.
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Ok so I have researched and looked back through all the deck extension forums.
I have the lids (plywood that will be resined) flush with the deck. If I add carpet to the deck it will be lower than the lids that will be with a layer on top and wrapped underneath the lids or tucked under; the size of the carpet(1/8in).
Some say that you wont have to worry about it because in time the lids settle down. (anyone use that method and found that to be true a year later?)
Others say they sanded the lids down 1/8 of an inch (the piano hinge would not be level when you open it if you do that) and then they carpeted it. (Anyone found that in time the lids were lower because they sanded?)
Others say they router the lip of the lid or the actual deck to get the lids to sit lower.
I need some advice of those that have made deck extensions and after time realize what they would have done different.
(Incentive) Let OUR project be one that ppl could say...."If I could go back and do it different I would have done it like cwadams made his"
....also....how or what would I paint underneath the rod locker lids to look like the underneath of Ranger Livewell lids to match. Is it a white Gelcoat? White Enamel paint?
Suggestions?
I am a rookie and a newbie. Learning by reading the input on these forums. Good stuff!!
thanks
Charles;
I see that you are going to use resin to preserve the wood. My suggestion would be to thin the resin/hardener mix with 1/3 lacquer thinner and paint it on until the wood does not absorb any more. Basically a one step process.
Thin the mix and apply to warm wood if possible, it will go right in and 10/15 minutes later recoat. You should be able to mix and apply a final coat of resin/hardener immediately following the thin coats and you should have a non porous surface to which to apply the carpet glue.
My 2 cents, I done a number of boats and didn't figure out to thin the mix for good penetration into the wood until recently. Great job.
Charles, The projects comming along great, nice job. I have been reading about wooden boat building for months since starting my project, on boatbuildercentral. They always use epoxy to waterproof the wood but they never thin it. It will penetrate just fine as is. the warmer it is, the lower the viscosity of the resin= the better it will soak in. The key is to coat the wood as the air temp is dropping. Wood is full of air, if the temp is rising as you apply the resin, the wood will blow tiny air bubbles = pin holes in your finish and that cuold lead to moisture getting in.
If you paint as the temp is dropping, the air in the wood is contracting and it will draw the resin in.
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