Page 1 of 15 12311 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 281
  1. #1
    Member Largemouthlou's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Palm Bch Gardens FL
    Posts
    24,236

    Basscat7's Post

    This should be pined it is a frequently asked ?


    ? is the clear on the boats with flake actualy Clear Jelcoat from factory??

    If it is oxidized try wet sanding/buffing.....

    Most boats can be brought back to look new by doing the wet sanding/compounding/glazing/waxing at home for the costs of the products and a high speed sander if you do not own one...a lot of labor involved, but can save you big $$$$ over a re-clearcoat.

    All the peripheral hardware should be removed from the boat, cleats, handrails, lights, windshields, decals, anything that can be unbolted from the top cap and consoles, etc will make the job easier....less obstructions when using the buffer.
    You will need a high speed buffer, not an orbital buffer, the high speed produces the heat that makes the compound cut thru the faded clearcoat, you can use a cheap buffer, no need for an expensive model.


    Harbor Freight has an inexpensive 3,000 rpm model.

    http://www.harborfreight.com/c...etype=

    3M waffle polishing pads.....the white one for compounding/cutting and the black pad for glazing/polishing.

    Wet Sandpaper in 1200/1500/and 2000 grit. The grit can be matched to the severity of the oxidation...if it is real bad you may have to start with 800 grit and work up to 1200 grit.

    3M Perfect It Rubbing Compound # 05973
    3M Final Glaze # 06066

    Any hard Carnauba Marine Wax

    1st step is to remove all the hardware you can.

    Wash the boat, remove any tar, bugs , etc stuck on the glass.

    2nd step is to wet sand by hand with plenty of water, put a few drops of dishwashing liquid in the sanding water to make the paper slide easier, dunk the paper often to clean the sanded material off the paper.

    Start with the 1200 grit, sand the whole area to be redone, rinse off with the hose, repeat with the 1500 grit, and rinse, then again with the 2000 grit....this is very labor intensive , may take you a few days to get thru LOL..., don't sand too hard in one spot, keep feeling the sanded area, if you feel any of the metalflake ( rough , grainy ) stop sanding on that area or you will sand too deep and expose the flakes.

    When the sanding is done , wash the boat again to get the glass clean of particles, it will look dull but not faded.

    3rd step is using the high speed buffer with the white 3M pad and the rubbing compound, do small areas and move the buffer slowly, not keeping it in one spot or it might burn the gel.
    When done compounding wash off the compound and dry the boat.

    4th step is using the black 3M pad on the high speed buffer and the 3M final glaze to put on a high gloss glaze coat.

    make sure you cover the carpeting in the boat with a tarp or plastic to keep all the material off the rugs.

    By this time if their was not any actual gelcoat damage the clearcoat should look almost new again.
    The final step is putting on a good coat of high carnauba paste wax....then keep the boat clean by wiping it down as soon as it comes out of the water with one of the spray wipes like Bass Boat Saver..

    Pro-Tec makes an excellent polymer sealer for the gelcoat, bonds to the glass and seals the pores to help prevent oxidation.

    http://www.protecproducts.com/products.html


    Basscat7


  2. Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Apex
    Posts
    61
    #2

    Re: Basscat7's Post (Largemouthlou)

    I tried to follow this, but:

    The harbor freight link is broke...However, I know which one it is, it is the Chicago Tool 5/8" arbor high speed polisher... http://www.harborfreight.com/c...92623

    Which leads to another problem. The 3M pads linked are 3" pads. 3M does not make a 3" hook-it or hook-it II backing disc for a 5/8" arbor. Only 5/16". I spent considerable time with CarQuest and a 3M rep on the phone and was told this.

    The only 5/8" arbor we could find for 3M was for the 8" pads which are too big for most bass boat polishing.

    So, some clarification and updates are needed to this post. Good info, but it's caused me to pull my hair out trying to adhere to it. I'm still looking for 3M compounding/polishing pads for use with the 7" velcro disc that comes with the harbor freight unit. Or something with a 5/8 arbor and smaller pads.

  3. Member Largemouthlou's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Palm Bch Gardens FL
    Posts
    24,236
    #3

    Re: Basscat7's Post (robertmee)

    Hmmmm, so far everyone has recomended the Harbor Frieght Buffer and 3 m pads that has done this... So hope they all chime in

  4. Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Apex
    Posts
    61
    #4

    Re: Basscat7's Post (Largemouthlou)

    Me too!

  5. Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Dirty South
    Posts
    7,431
    #5

    Re: Basscat7's Post (Largemouthlou)

    This is the white compounding pad being used on jared's boat. Its the one we all use.




    The White Pad:
    3M™ Perfect-It™ Foam Compounding Pads #05723
    The perfect choice...
    Patented convoluted-foam face design.
    When used with 3M™ Perfect-It™ II Rubbing Compound
    (PNs 05973 or 05974), microfine grade 2000 scratches
    are effectively removed from any automotive
    paint finish, leaving an extremely fine finish.
    Attaches to either 3M™ Compounding and
    Polishing Backup Pads (PNs 05717 or 05718).


    The Black pad:
    3M Black waffle style velcro Round Edge Perfect It 8" Polishing Pad #05735


    Hope this helps ya out... any more questions, just ask


  6. Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Apex
    Posts
    61
    #6

    Re: Basscat7's Post (SwatDawg)

    Ah, so you are using the 8" pads....That makes sense now as I indicated, the only ones with 5/8" aubers were the 8" pads. The other 3M posts gave part #'s for the white and black pads, but they were 3".

    Do you know the part # for the 8" backing pad that connects to your polisher?

    Thanks!

  7. Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Dirty South
    Posts
    7,431
    #7

    Re: Basscat7's Post (robertmee)

    The buffer has a velcro back... it hooks right on the pad, no need for a backing for that.


  8. Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Apex
    Posts
    61
    #8

    Re: Basscat7's Post (SwatDawg)

    The buffer is 7"....Are you saying the 8" 3M Pad sticks fine?

  9. Member BASSCAT7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Philadelphia
    Posts
    2,994
    #9

    Re: Basscat7's Post (robertmee)

    The pads are 8" pads. They work fine on the Harbor Freight 7" sander.

    Here is my original post, don't know where you got the numbers for the 3" pads from ??? But the 8" pads work well....You can use any high speed sander..or pad combos......These are just the ones that I have used and know work well....


    Here are some instructions for wet sanding to remove oxidation from fiberglass:

    Most boats can be brought back to look new by doing the wet sanding/compounding/glazing/waxing at home for the costs of the products and a high speed sander if you do not own one.......a lot of labor involved, but can save you big $$$$ over a re-clearcoat.

    All the peripheral hardware should be removed from the boat, cleats, handrails, lights, windshields, decals, anything that can be unbolted from the top cap and consoles, etc will make the job easier....less obstructions when using the buffer.

    You will need a high speed buffer, not an orbital buffer, the high speed produces the heat that makes the compound cut thru the faded clearcoat, you can use a cheap buffer, no need for an expensive model.


    Harbor Freight has an inexpensive 3,000 rpm model.

    http://www.harborfreight.com/c...2623s
    3M waffle polishing pads.....the white one for compounding/cutting and the black pad for glazing/polishing.

    Wet Sandpaper in 1200/1500/and 2000 grit. The grit can be matched to the severity of the oxidation...if it is real bad you may have to start with 800 grit and work up to 1200 grit.

    3M Perfect It Rubbing Compound # 05973
    3M Final Glaze # 06066

    Any hard Carnauba Marine Wax

    1st step is to remove all the hardware you can.

    Wash the boat, remove any tar, bugs , etc stuck on the glass.

    2nd step is to wet sand by hand with plenty of water, put a few drops of dishwashing liquid in the sanding water to make the paper slide easier, dunk the paper often to clean the sanded material off the paper.

    Start with the 1200 grit, sand the whole area to be redone, rinse off with the hose, repeat with the 1500 grit, and rinse, then again with the 2000 grit....this is very labor intensive , may take you a few days to get thru LOL..., don't sand too hard in one spot, keep feeling the sanded area, if you feel any of the metalflake ( rough , grainy ) stop sanding on that area or you will sand too deep and expose the flakes.

    When the sanding is done , wash the boat again to get the glass clean of particles, it will look dull but not faded.

    3rd step is using the high speed buffer with the white 3M pad and the rubbing compound, do small areas and move the buffer slowly, not keeping it in one spot or it might burn the gel.
    When done compounding wash off the compound and dry the boat.

    4th step is using the black 3M pad on the high speed buffer and the 3M final glaze to put on a high gloss glaze coat.

    Make sure you cover the carpeting in the boat with a tarp or plastic to keep all the material off the rugs.

    By this time if their was not any actual gelcoat damage the clearcoat should look almost new again.
    The final step is putting on a good coat of high carnauba paste wax....then keep the boat clean by wiping it down as soon as it comes out of the water with one of the spray wipes like Bass Boat Saver..

    Pro-Tec makes an excellent polymer sealer for the gelcoat, bonds to the glass and seals the pores to help prevent oxidation.

    http://www.protecproducts.com/products.html


    Basscat7



  10. Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Dirty South
    Posts
    7,431
    #10

    Re: Basscat7's Post (robertmee)

    <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by robertmee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The buffer is 7"....Are you saying the 8" 3M Pad sticks fine?</TD></TR></TABLE>

    Yes they work and stick perfectly.... Thats what we all use... I dont know what else i can tell you other than thats what we use, and thats what works


  11. Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Apex
    Posts
    61
    #11

    Re: Basscat7's Post (SwatDawg)

    Thanks Swat and Bass! I'll be picking up some 8" pads tomorrow and getting to work!

  12. Member Largemouthlou's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Palm Bch Gardens FL
    Posts
    24,236
    #12

    Re: Basscat7's Post (robertmee)

    Now this post should be double pinned!!

  13. Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Dirty South
    Posts
    7,431
    #13

    Re: Basscat7's Post (Largemouthlou)

    I agree, along with the carpet corners post. I'll IM Rollo is you havent already


  14. Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Apex
    Posts
    61
    #14

    Re: Basscat7's Post (SwatDawg)

    Hat's off to you guys that have done this multiple times. It's hard freakin work. Either that or I'm doing it wrong. So a few questions:

    1) What speed on the Harbor Freight Polisher? I've tried slow and fast with mixed results. Fast seems to sling the compound/polisher EVERYWHERE. Everytime I do a small patch, I have sling marks on everything else. I'm finding that I'm spending most of my time going over the same areas, wiping up the sling. Slow, just doesn't seem to generate the heat necessity.

    2) You can't do this in the sun. Stuff just dries too fast. I've even tried misting with a water bottle as recommended by a google search. If the boat's not cool to the touch, forget it.

    3) The oxidation keeps coming back! Or at least cloudiness. I'll go over with the compound, wipe/wash down, polish and it looks good. 20 minutes later it's clouding again. What am I doing wrong?

    4) When I wet the boat it looks awesome. When it dries, it dulls again. (Haven't waxed yet). Should I be able to maintain that 'wet' look before waxing?

    5) The polisher is great for the top cap and the hull, but that's about it. Way too many nooks and crannies. My elbow is killing me from hand polishing all these areas.

    6) Did I mention sling? This stuff gets everywhere. All the carpets out so not a problem there, but it keeps getting on areas already done.

    7) Okay, I committed the cardinal sin and burned the gelcoat in one small area on the transom while polishing. It turned a kind of dull orangeish color. Anyway to repair short of re-gelling? It's not that noticeable but I know it is there


  15. Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Dirty South
    Posts
    7,431
    #15

    Re: Basscat7's Post (robertmee)

    Ok, first off... if you could/would take a few pictures of the boat and post them... It would help me understand how bad it is... you may have to wet sand first. As far as the polisher, you do small areas at a time... I pour a small bit of compound on the boat and sit the pad down on it... I then kinda work it around with out power just to smooth the puddle. You have to turn the rpm's to generate the heat. I cant tell you what setting because every boats's gelcoat is different, so you just gotta get a feel for it. There is absoluty no way to eliminate the slinging of compound, just gotta deal with it.

    If you dont know how to post pictures, email them to swatdawg15@bellsouth.net and I'll put them up for you. WITHOUT seeing your boat, it sounds like you need to wetsand starting with 1000 grit, then 1500, then 2000... once done with that, the compund will work into the gelcoat ..... just make sure you dont sand too much and expose the metal flake (if you have any). Use lots of water and use your other hand to run behind the sanding block.... you will notice how much easier the sanding gets. Keep your paper wet and I always kept my waterhose next to me to spray the removed oxidation away... if you dont, it will restick and you will be sanding again


  16. Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    irvine
    Posts
    2
    #16
    will this method work on this boat?? this is my first boat and would like to make it look nice and bring back the color


  17. Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Dirty South
    Posts
    7,431
    #17

    Re: (DROPSHOTMAN)

    <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DROPSHOTMAN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">will this method work on this boat?? this is my first boat and would like to make it look nice and bring back the color

    </TD></TR></TABLE>

    I personally wouldent touch that. it appears that someone has sprayed it with automotive clear coat before. You would have to get all that off before you could even think about working the gel.... As long as that old boat sat out in the elimints, i would check it very close for rot. I think you will loose your tail off trying to restore that one. However if you decide to, and I can help, let me know


  18. Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    irvine
    Posts
    2
    #18
    well i am going to restore it, as for you helping me i think your a little to far away to help lol but it is much appreciated

  19. Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Dirty South
    Posts
    7,431
    #19

    Re: (DROPSHOTMAN)

    Good luck


  20. Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Apex
    Posts
    61
    #20

    Re: (SwatDawg)

    SwatDawg,

    I'll post some tomorrow and send you some direct.

    Thanks!!

Page 1 of 15 12311 ... LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Fixing a scratch in white gelcoat- Opinions please?
    By walleyeguy9 in forum Bassboat Restoration
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 09-23-2011, 03:22 PM
  2. Basscat7
    By djarrett in forum Bassboat Restoration
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 03-01-2010, 03:50 PM
  3. Fixing a chip in tyhe clear gelcoat?
    By dmandave in forum Bassboat Restoration
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 11-20-2009, 05:32 PM
  4. New Gelcoat or Refurbish Faded Gelcoat
    By Sportakus in forum Bassboat Restoration
    Replies: 24
    Last Post: 11-04-2009, 03:38 PM
  5. My Gelcoat is gone. Can I use auto Clearcoat instead of gelcoat?
    By acleme1 in forum Bassboat Restoration
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 03-18-2008, 04:52 PM