Look 3 posts above for links
I have a 92 Bass cat Pantera that is white faded and dull and it appears that the previous owner put a clear coat on the boat that is turning brown and is pealing off.. Will this method work for my boat...will anything?
hey im just a passer byer, looks like a lot of work that you have put in to that boat and it's paying off for ya, looks great.
Modified by chopper289 at 7:21 AM 1/19/2009
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mckeewa »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a 92 Bass cat Pantera that is white faded and dull and it appears that the previous owner put a clear coat on the boat that is turning brown and is pealing off.. Will this method work for my boat...will anything?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If it is sprayed with an auto clear coat and is peeling, all that would have to be removed. Auto clear does not bond well to gel coat unless the prep work is flawless and that can take some $$ to do right.
Try peeling what you can, use some duct tape pressed hard on the clear to try and peel some of the stubborn areas. Then try the sanding to remove what you cannot get off.
Thanks Basscat7 I'm going to start this sat, I'll post some pics for this forum.
do you think this will be able to be sanded out?
You can see next to the T/M how it looks and to feel it it feels kind of rough. I also had some thin scaling on the top around the edges that was washed off at the car wash by the previouse owner. I would realy like to make the old girl shine on a fixed budget. what do ya think? thanks. Rick
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This is a picture of what I am up against. The brown staining that you can see that looks like water marks is under the clear coat that some one put on the boat. The clear coat is peeling and I got what I could off with some gorilla tape but most of it I can't get off. I really want to remove the brown stain and the clear coat if there is a way. I Tried a small test spot of sanding but it didn't do much at all if anything to remove the clear coat. Am I stuck with this brown stain a layer of ugly clear coat. Any suggestions on what I might be able to do????
I have just bought a 1996 Javelin, red and silver metal flake. The silver on the top rails is rough, feels like you are running your hand across the metal flake. There is no clear coat on this area. Would the process that you describe here work in my case as well?
1996 Javelin 369 SE, 115
Mike
2002 Four Winns 180 Horizon F&S
If the metal/poly flakes are showing thru already , then no it would not work well.
Make sure it is not rough oxidation you are feeling, if the oxidation is bad enough sometimes it can feel like flakes.
Thanks, I'll give that a try. Should I start with the fine sandpaper? What should I watch for?
Mike
2002 Four Winns 180 Horizon F&S
If it is rough, try a test spot and see if it works. Start with 800 grit and then 1000. Wet the paper. keep feeling the sanded spot to see if the flakes are actually thru, or if it is starting to smooth out. If it starts to smooth out with no flakes, then sand it smooth, comound the test spot and see how it looks compared to the original finish you started with. If the rough feeling is gone and no flakes are showing thru then you know you can do the rest of the boat.
If so, just follow the instructions posted earlier in this post.
Okay just to beat a dead horse completely into the ground: I have already compounded the surface, so what now? Should I seal with Pro-Tec first and then follow that with a paste wax, and then use a spray detailer, or did I completely get that bass-ackwards?
Matthew 28:20
teaching them to observe all things whatsoever I commanded you: and lo, I am with you always, even unto the end of the world.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crimsonpride40 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay just to beat a dead horse completely into the ground: I have already compounded the surface, so what now? Should I seal with Pro-Tec first and then follow that with a paste wax, and then use a spray detailer, or did I completely get that bass-ackwards?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you have compounded the surface and it looks clean, then you can seal it with Pro-Tec ...or use a paste wax, either will work. HTe Pro-TEcwill alstlonger and seal the microscopic pores in the gel.
Then use a spray detailer after each use.
If after compounding the surface it does not look clear/clean you might need to use a glaze to polish out the swirl marks, then wax.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BASSCAT7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the metal/poly flakes are showing thru already , then no it would not work well.
Make sure it is not rough oxidation you are feeling, if the oxidation is bad enough sometimes it can feel like flakes.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What is the course of action if the metal/poly flakes are showing through? Do you wet sand then have it re-gelled? What would it take to re-gel diy? What would it cost to have the deck regelled (ball park is fine)? I am in the process of picking up a boat with pretty good oxidation, possibly down to metal/poly, but the motor and transom are solid and it floats, so, I'm trying to get an idea of what I've gotten myself into.
If you ain't the lead dog, the view never changes.
Would like to know this also. for future reference.
It\'s a dog eat dog world out there and I\'m wearing milk bone underwear! \"Norm Peterson\" Cheers.
Great informaiton! I am going to start sanding and buffing the gelcoat on my boat and I just have a few questions. First how much do you sand? I mean do you sand until you do not see oxidation coming up or just until it is smooth? And second I need these 3m products by this weekend so do they sell them at auto parts store, marina, or dept store? I know where to get the pads and stuff but the compound and wet sand paper? I also have a Harbor Freight down the road here so I can just walk in and pick it up!
Thanks again and I will add pics to my restoration page for others to view.
TJ Daveski
Northeast, PA
1987 Dyna-Trak 180 SS (restore)
2000 Dakota Quad Cab
US Navy Vet 2002-2006 EN3(SW)
If you can feel the rough oxidation sand until it is smooth, you should be able to see the contamination coming off in the water, turning it murky. If oxidation is light, sand until the water is not real dirty.
Sandpaper should be available at any hardware store, Home Depot, WalMarts.
Compound can be found at most marine stores, larger auto parts stores also carry it.
TJ Daveski
Northeast, PA
1987 Dyna-Trak 180 SS (restore)
2000 Dakota Quad Cab
US Navy Vet 2002-2006 EN3(SW)
I was in a Pep Boys yesterday down here and they had the 3M finesse it. Check the local auto body supply place, they'll have it too.
ok I am getting the exact products you have listed in your first post.
3M Perfect It Rubbing Compound # 05973
3M Final Glaze # 06066
So whick is the one that you just told me about? Finesse it?
TJ Daveski
Northeast, PA
1987 Dyna-Trak 180 SS (restore)
2000 Dakota Quad Cab
US Navy Vet 2002-2006 EN3(SW)