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  1. #1
    Member shawn706's Avatar
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    In Memory

    Feel free to add any of Don's writings to this.


    Finding Early Spring Patterns

    By Don Applegarth

    With the approaching of the new spring, I thought that we should discuss some strategies that should help everyone. While I do not claim to be an expert on many issues of bass fishing, I do like to talk to others, and get responses to many questions that I have asked, or have answered for others, and see how much they differ. Anglers are very much individuals, and many do not follow the textbook patterns for seasonal bass fishing, or even fishing under certain conditions. Many times, I fall into that category, but I know that I am not alone.
    It is always a good start, to go to your fishing log, and check entries from the past several years, at the same time. This will give you some good do's and don'ts for starting your search for those big pre-spawn sows, as they begin to migrate toward the warming waters in the shallow sections of the lake.
    I like to start my search as the waters approach the 50 degree mark, but often in high 40's as well. Here, that is usually mid-February, but it can vary as much as 2 or 3 weeks depending upon the weather, and the fish will be in a Transitional state. Many times these bigger fish will start to move, and then severe cold fronts can stall them out, and make them go into a sort of holding pattern, until it becomes more stable. Notice, that I said stall, not retreat! That is an important fact.
    I believe that the bigger bass usually are affected by weather changes more so than the smaller ones. Usually, if you search out areas that these bigger bass use as a migration route, you will find plenty of them, and once located, they can be followed for weeks, or even a couple of months, depending upon the weather.
    I can remember a few years ago, here on Lanier, we had lactated some big fish, stacked up near a point at the mouth of a large cove off the main river channel. These fish ranged from about 2 1/2 lbs to almost 6, and one went just a hair over 7. These fish were there in late January, and we could count on 10 - 20 each day in this creek. The water temps were around 46 whenever we first located those bass, and as the days, warmed, and the water temps rose, the fish slowly worked their way towards the back of the cove, which is about 1 mile long. The first time we caught them, we were throwing Crawfish colored Crankbaits, on the point at the mouth of the cove, and catching fish from about 10'-12' of water, but we were casting into about 30 - 40' of water. The fish were on the point, but suspended about 20' deep. They would come up and take the baits, but we had to use a technique very similar to a jerkbait. We would make long casts, an then crank the baits down, and use a pull, stop, pull, stop technique all the way to the boat. The fish would just swim up and suck them in, and whenever you went to pull, there would be a slight heaviness on the line. Not a bone jarring strike, just pressure.
    After about three weeks, these fish had moved into the first 1/3 of the creek, and there was a small feeder creek that ran into this one. There was a huge rock point at the intersection of these two places, and those fish stayed there for about another three weeks as temps would climb and fall, depending on the weather. We continued to catch these bass even when the weather changed.
    During warmer days, they would move shallow along the point, and feed more aggressively on Rat-L-Traps, Spinnerbaits, and Flukes, but then if a cold front moved through, they would just back out about 20' off the point, and suspend a little deeper. Then it was time for those Crankbaits again. During this time, we won several tournaments, and placed high in a couple more, usually taking Lunker honors as well, while others ran around the lake searching for a fish here and there.
    The point I am trying to make is not what a great angler I am. I want to try and illustrate the fact that you can locate fish, and follow them without giving up, if they don't appear to be located where they were last weekend. During that period which lasted until about the end of March, we were always amazed at the number of times we would sit there, and watch as 25 - 50 boats per day, would go past us, and all the way to the back of the creek, and flip jigs into the massive heavy brush and timber there. They would run in, fish for 15 - 30 minutes, crank up , and run out. Rarely did they catch anything back there, but we would spend the entire day in that one spot. When the fish moved, we could again locate them, and concentrate our efforts on a small area, about 50 - 100 yards long. There was no reason to leave...the fish didn't.
    I can not tell you how many times we saw well known guides fishing with clients run to the back, stop, fish, and leave. One day one of the better known guides stopped across the lake to see why we were always on this one spot. Sometimes we would be a few yards away from where we were last week, but never too far.
    So many people think that you HAVE to flip jigs or use spoons in late Winter/early Spring to take bass. This is not always true. Now that does not mean that I don't use jigs, I do...actually very often, but whenever the fish are found, and you can get them to take a faster bait, you are going to catch MORE fish. They may not always be BIGGER fish, but usually they will be more, as far as numbers go.
    Once the water warms into the high 50's to low 60's most people are going to start looking for the beds, and shallow fish cruising. That is when I usually try and find flats adjacent to the spawning areas that I have found in the past years. I know the smaller males will be shallow an working diligently on their beds, getting ready for the spawning ritual, but the bigger females are going to be a little deeper, unless actively feeding .
    I try to find flats where the water rises up from a ledge or creek channel, into about 8 - 10' , and then stays at that depth for some distance, and rises again into shallower water, say 4' - 6'. This 8 - 10 foot range seems to be the holding place for the bigger females until they commit to the beds. I use small crankbaits, and Carolina rigged Lizards, to fool these big bass, over the flats. Staying out along the deeper water, I try to cast to the next ledge, (4-6') and then cover the whole flat that I know these fish are using to feed, and wait for a few more degrees of warm water. They are usually spread out here, and it might take several hours to find a limit, but they will all be good bass when you catch them. If the flat is slightly shallower, which is sometimes the case, say the 5-8' range, I will also try spinnerbaits, and rat-l-traps worked in these areas. Best colors now seem to be Natural Baitfish colors such as white, chrome/blue, chartreuse, etc.
    Once the water has reached the 62 - 65 degree mark, many fish will be bedded, and of course can be seen, and caught using a variety of baits, and techniques. I personally do not like bed fishing for several reasons, but that is another issue.
    While I said that MOST bass will begin bedding then, I did not say all. They will take from 3 -4 weeks to bed, and several fish will bed even later than that. Whenever I start to see beds, and fish on them, I begin to search for WOOD! Remember that...it is an important fact. Big females will begin to roll, against large trees, stumps, or sometimes even brush, for a day or two before they go on bed. This helps to loosen the eggs inside them, and also stirs up a lot of food for them. They are VERY aggressive then, and you can really catch some nice fish.
    I use baits like Flukes, Blades (spinnerbaits), and even jigs and worms,
    to target these trees, and other forms of wood cover. I try the faster moving baits first, like the spinnerbaits, then switch to the fluke, and if I still can't get them to bite, I will flip a jig, and / or a worm into the thickest part of the wood, and try to make one hit it. Every tree is not going to produce, but many will.
    If you are fishing in an area where there are many trees, such as a flooded flat near the spawning area, how do you know which trees to fish? There are several things you can do that may help you eliminate the unproductive ones, rather than just fishing them at random...for instance, try the larger trees first. They will be the ones that are the oldest, and closest to the actual Creek Channel. It is easy to find the creeks that way in open water areas. If they are not on those, then perhaps you should try targeting a particular type of tree such as oak, or maple, etc, and see which ones seem to have the fish holding on them.
    Once you have determined the ones that hold fish, and which bait they seem to be hitting the best, you are ready to just get the job done...the hard work is over, and you are going to catch some nice bass. I know that these are not the only areas that hold fish, and not the only patterns that will produce in early spring. Each individual angler seems to have his/her own unique patterns for this time of year, and they will all work.
    My point in this article has been to offer some alternatives when things are not working, and you want to try something different from the rest of the field around you. Many times, that is all it takes to have some of the best days you ever have.
    I know that my fishing style is many times radical, and sort of goes against the grain , so to speak, of traditional patterns, but that is the way that I many times find fish that others miss, or that are receiving the heavy fishing pressure from the thousands who frequent these waters in early spring.
    There is nothing wrong with traditional methods, and you will see me using them often too, but sometimes you have to go with your instinct, and do what your gut tells you. It might not always be right, but it will give you more confidence than fishing an area, or lure that you really are not comfortable with. If you like crankbaits, and catch most of your fish on these, then that is what you need to throw whenever the fishing is tough. While it might not produce any better for you, at least you will have the confidence, in both your ability with the lure, and the lure itself, to catch some bass, and you will be more focused on presentation, and retrieve, and therefore, many times catch more bass.
    Hopefully, this will give some insight to the mystery of early spring bassing, for many of the readers, and help them to have a starting point. Find the right starting point, and the rest of the spring becomes much easier, and enjoyable.
    Good Fishin'
    Don

  2. Member shawn706's Avatar
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    #2

    Re: In Memory (shawn706)

    When old is new again.

    By Don Applegarth

    Every year we are bombarded with hundreds of new items. These range from the latest advancements in electronics, to the newest in rod and reel technology. There are certainly some great items we can find, and many are long awaited and long overdue.
    The same holds true for lures. Certainly there are always going to be new innovations in fishing lures, and many will be successful, and others won't.
    What about those old lures? You know, the ones you "Used" to fish with, way back when.....

    How many of us have been talking with others and said "You know, I used to have ____________ and I always caught a lot of fish on those things, I wonder why I stopped fishing them?"
    Many of these old favorites are no longer in production, or they have been modified to the changing times, for production efficiency or cost.
    I know many years ago, back when soft plastic baits were new, and before they were around, a jig tipped with a pork trailer was a deadly combination, and then during the 60's and 70's those baits became sort of lost, giving way to the newer plastic worms.
    Then during the 80's and 90's there was a rebirth of the jig, and they are now more popular than ever, and have improved vastly over the years.
    I can remember using a plastic worm trailer on some of my jigs back in the 80's, instead of a crawfish imitation. The simple straight worm and jig combination caught a lot of fish, and I am sure it still would.
    Remember that the "Newest" baits are only new until the fish start to see them all of the time, and then everyone is throwing them, which I think causes them to lose some of their effectiveness.
    I throw a lot of spinnerbaits, year round, and love catching fish on them. During the spring, a spinnerbait has long been regarded as one of "The Baits" to throw, but the fish start seeing them all day everyday, often in the same color. For that reason, I often opt for a different type bait in late spring, and go back to the spinnerbaits later in the year when they are not being thrown as much.
    Maybe it's time to get those old baits out of storage and show the new generation of bass something they haven't seen before. At least you know you will not be showing them the same thing as the 3 or 4 boats in front of you did. Besides, if you get cabin fever during the colder months it would be a good chance to replace hooks, and bring back some old memories, and plan to make some new ones in the spring.
    I have some new StrkeWorks Wood jigs I just got in Brown/Chartreuse color, and I think I am going to try adding some purple Kuttails to them. You never know

    Modified by shawn706 at 12:10 PM 3/6/2007

  3. Member shawn706's Avatar
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    #3

    Re: In Memory (shawn706)

    A Beginner's Guide To Jigs

    By Don Applegarth

    Jigs have been around almost as long as anglers and they come in a wide variety of colors, styles and materials. From the beginning jigs have been a great fish-catching tool, and can be worked in various ways under a wide variety of conditions.
    Most anglers who want to learn to fish jigs get frustrated and don't spend enough time using them. That is understandable, as these baits often do not produce as many strikes as some other baits, and usually require the patience of Job to fish them slowly enough.
    First let's examine exactly what it is that a jig is supposed to represent to the fish. The most common thought among many anglers is that a jig resembles a crawfish. True enough, but only when it is fished like a crawfish and in crawfish colors and patterns. What about other styles and colors…say a white bucktail? That certainly doesn't resemble a crawfish to me.
    A white bucktail jig with either a red head or a white head with some red thread tied around the skirt resembles a baitfish with red gills, in my opinion. Most anglers find these work best when cast and fished back with a steady retrieve or by using a hopping technique along the bottom. They are also excellent baits for trolling as well.
    Similar jigs are made with rubber skirts as well, and these too can be fished in the same manner. Normally, I fish a white or any light colored jig a bit faster than a darker crawfish color, simply because I want to imitate baitfish.
    Now let's talk about the crawfish colored jigs. These can be found in just about every shape and size imaginable, and for good reason. They all work.
    I think that overall the most popular colors for jigs anywhere (universal colors if you will) are black/blue, black, black/chartreuse, brown, brown/orange, brown/chartreuse, black/brown/purple, and many combinations of green or green and brown.
    All of those colors are great crawfish colors, and will work under all conditions. Many anglers prefer to use a pork chunk such as the #11 or #1 Uncle Josh Frogs. Those are great trailers and will work fine, but they will also dry out, and need to be kept wet in warmer weather to work correctly.
    Another alternative is to use some of the new plastic pork trailers, such as the Zoom Super Salty Chunk which allows the same advantages with the slower fall and movements of the pork tails, but also allows you to be carefree about the risk of it drying out. Another advantage to using these types of trailers, is the fact that they also allow a wider range of colors, and can be customized easily with a dye or dye marker pen.
    Many companies also offer a crawfish trailer as well, and these can be deadly at times. Another advantage to using these baits, is that they can also be fished on a Texas rig or Carolina rig and therefore are much more versatile than the standard chunks.
    A Spider Grub or Twin Tail grub is another alternative to fishing a jig. These can be worked in the same fashion as other jigs and are in my opinion the easiest of all jigs to learn. Simply rig them, and fish them as you would a worm. The swimming tail action will draw strikes, and they can be fished a bit quicker than the standard pork chunks. The slender body will allow them to fall a bit more quickly and therefore you must have several sizes of jigheads available to adjust the fall when needed. Most times I want the bait to get down pretty quickly, and the deeper I fish it, the heavier I want the head to be. The added weight gives me a much better feel and allows me to stay in contact with the jig much easier. It not only allows you a better feel for the bottom's contour and make up, but also makes strike detection easier.
    A twin-tailed grub can be deadly fished with a soft plastic skirt or behind either a hair or rubber skirted jig. It is a very versatile bait.
    Another thing to consider about jigs is the type of weedguard you will be using. If you are fishing open water, then no weedguard is needed. For most of my fishing along rocky areas with little heavy cover, I use a leadhead with a twin wire, which I spread to form a V making it pretty weedless but still allowing an easy hookset.
    If I am fishing thick cover and pitching or flipping, then I use a heavier head, which is streamlined and penetrates easily through the thick stuff. A good monofilament bristle guard is the most commonly found for this type of jig, but some companies such as Bass Browser Jigs use a wire guard making it easier to set the hook, and still quite weedless.
    If you are fishing a bristle guard, be certain that you spread the strands apart so that they form a slight V and are thin enough for the hook to penetrate, and still come through thick cover easily. This takes some practice, but it is not difficult to learn, just hard to remember at first. If you do not spread the guard, then you end up missing a lot of fish when trying to set the hook.
    Sometimes fishing a jig requires it be dropped into a specific spot, and lifted and dropped a couple if times in that same spot to trigger strikes from fish holding tight to cover. Flipping and pitching are good examples of this technique. There are also times when the fish want the jig slowly crawling or hopping up and down across the bottom. The best advice is to experiment, and let the fish tell you what they want on any given day.
    Learning to fish a jig requires determination, and time. It is not a technique that will produce numbers most times, but it is a technique which could produce the largest fish of your life. It is an essential weapon to master and make you a much more versatile angler. Once you catch a few on the bait, you will gain the confidence it takes to throw it.

  4. Member shawn706's Avatar
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    #4

    Re: In Memory (shawn706)

    Understanding Barometric Pressure

    By Don Applegarth

    How many times have you been fishing and then when it started raining, the fish seemed to turn on? If you haven't you will.
    All weather patterns have some type of effect on the pressure in the atmosphere, and thus the fish. Understanding these changes will help you locate and often catch more fish.
    Normally, the lower the pressure, the more active the fish will be, and there fore the higher the pressure the less active they become, especially immediately following the change, which is usually associated with the passing of a frontal system of some type, especially a cold front.
    Whenever a front approaches, the pressure will usually drop, just ahead of the front, and many times clouds and/or rain comes with this. This change triggers the fish to feed, and they are often found shallow and active. Crankbaits, spinnerbaits and other fast moving baits often take these fish easily.
    Immediately following this period, the temperature can drop, and we see winds increase, and eventually the passing of the clouds and we get bluebird skies and high pressure. Whenever that occurs, the fishing seems to really slow down, and often shut off.
    The fish feel this pressure change, and will either suspend over deep water, or bury into the thickest cover they can find and stay there for 2 or 3 days sometimes until the pressure stabilizes and their bodies adjust to the change.
    This explains why "Flipping" or "Pitching" with a jig or similar bait often wins tourneys during these conditions. The fish will not chase bait, but will eat something that falls in front of their nose.
    On some lakes there are always some fish that stay in deeper water, and these fish will generally be less affected by these changes. This helps explain why catches of smallmouth and spotted bass are often good during times when the largemouth bite seems to shut down.
    Other things that may help during the high-pressure days, is to down size the baits you are using, and slow down the presentation.
    There are times whenever a small crappie sized jig or crankbait will out produce the larger ones, but that is not always the case.
    Once, while fishing with Jeremy Adams a couple of years ago, we were in a tourney on Guntersville, and had a severe cold front come through around 10:00am. The shallower fish that Jeremy had located just turned off, and the bite became almost non-existent.
    We moved out onto a ledge on the river channel, and started to pitch some 10" grubs from Yamamoto into small patches of grass along the ledges, and we started to get bit again, catching a couple of limits of fish during the remainder of the day under the worst conditions imaginable.
    Just remember this when the weather takes a turn and it will help you figure the fish out. The bite will still be slow and tough, but at least you will be following the bass and know that you are doing the right thing.

  5. Moderator Luke's Avatar
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    #5

    Re: In Memory (shawn706)

    Fishing From Memories

    By Don Applegarth

    "Fishing from Memories"…that is what my friend Alan Rusk says whenever we are fishing the same holes where we have caught some big bass at one point or another in the past.

    I think we all tend to do that, or at least I know that I do. I find that I usually do much better on a strange lake where I really haven't got a lot of so called "Honey Holes". I am forced to use my brain, and my knowledge of the fish's behavioral patterns to locate and then hopefully catch some nice bass.

    I have also tried to make myself do more of this on my own " Home " lake as well.

    That does not mean that I don't fish my favorite places any more…instead, it means that I pay more attention to little details like "what was the weather like? Or "what time of year was it?" That sometimes makes a HUGE difference.

    I have so many holes here on the lake, that I know I can always catch at least a few bass no matter what the conditions. I have holes that will produce in mid winter, and some that are great in summer months as well. Fall, and spring, are fairly easy, and you just follow the baitfish up into the backs of the creeks.

    I have found over the years, that some of these holes will produce at least a few bass year round, while others may only produce during a very small window of time during a certain season.

    We as anglers tend to be lazy, and want to do more fishing in areas we know, rather than put forth the extra effort to look for new patterns and areas on the lakes we regularly fish.

    For years, I have fished on West Point Lake, and always spent the entire trip on the southern end near the dam. Why? Because I always caught fish there, and many times, they were big fish.

    On the past two trips there, I have fished with my partner Dave, and he wanted to fish up in the rivers and some of the main lake pockets. He had never seen the lake before, and thought those areas looked good.

    I found so many new places to fish, simply because we tried new waters, and caught some good bass in these areas too. I would not have done that normally, because my confidence level is so high on the other end of the lake. Whenever I am fishing new areas, I really don't have that same level of confidence, but over the past few years, I have learned to change that. Now I have confidence in patterns, and lures, rather than certain areas that produced for me before.

    Being able to fish any area that you are forced to fish with confidence, will definitely make you a more successful angler.

    During our last tournament, we had boat problems, and were forced to fish the area near the host marina all day. It would have been easy to get frustrated, but instead we knew that the areas there would hold some bass, We had never fished them before, but knew that since the water temps were in the 58 - 63 range, there would be fish in these pockets.

    We spent the entire day fishing, and never cranked the boat. We ended up in 14th place out of 78 teams.

    Plan each trip carefully, using a topographic map as your guide. I know many people now use GPS units for navigation, and don't carry maps, but trust me, you can find things on them that you would never find without, such as roadbeds, humps, creek channels, etc.

    By forcing yourself to do more thinking, and fish where they fish should be, rather than just going to those same holes each trip, will help you to land more, and bigger bass. It has sure helped me!

    Good fishin'…

    Don


  6. Moderator Luke's Avatar
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    #6

    Re: In Memory (Luke)

    Picking Out The Right Lure

    by Don Applegarth

    How many times have you been out on the water and really had no idea what lure to start out with? We have all done this.
    I am not really sure if there is a correct answer to this question, or not, but I will try and help give you some guidelines that I use to help make my own personal choices.
    TOPWATERS
    I will start here, because on many trips these are the baits we choose first.
    I usually try and let the weather conditions and water conditions play a big part in my selection. If there is a lot of chop, I will use a Buzzbait or a Torpedo Type lure. This can create a lot of noise and draw strikes more easily than quieter presentations.
    If there is a little chop, I will throw a Pop-R type bait, or a Spook. These are going to make a little noise, but work best in calm to a slight chop.
    If the surface is completely still, I might choose to use a quieter approach, such as that of a minnow plug, twitched on the surface with long pauses in between.
    CRANKBAITS
    These selections can be a little trickier.
    I try and decide first, when I think the conditions call for a Crankbait. I usually have one tied on, and almost always make at least a few casts with it in every area I fish. I especially like to fish them along windy shorelines, with rocks or stumps, and around main lake points as well.
    I try and Match the Hatch as far as color goes first! Even in relatively stained water, many times I have found that the better fish will usually still hit more natural colors. You may have to slow it down some, but if they can find it, they will hit it. I do this mainly on highly pressured lakes when I know that everyone else is throwing a chartreuse color due to the stained water. Instead of chartreuse, I try to go with a White or chrome color and pick one that has some glitter in it as well to reflect the light that is available, and give it some flash. The Professional Edge Normans are a good choice for this situation, and I always get the ones with the Gelcoat finish.
    As far as depth, well I normally throw crankbaits in water that is from 8 - 16' deep, and I mainly use ones that can reach from 8-12', and sometimes I will go to a larger one, especially in late summer or fall.
    I use the Lipless type baits to cover a lot of very shallow water, and for schooling fish. These baits will absolutely out-fish anything at certain times. I like to throw them over submerged weeds, as well as flats, and stumps, and also around standing timber.
    SPINNERBAITS
    Is there a bad time to throw this bait? I don't think so! This has to be one of my favorite baits, especially whenever I am looking for a big bite, or an aggressive bite. I can throw them into about anything, and they will come right through it. I really use them to fish thick cover quickly, and try to draw fish out. If I can get a couple of bites, I will usually throw a slower bait back into the tree or bush, and try to get a strike on it, such as a worm or jig.
    I think that a willow leaf is the best all-around choice for blades, but they all have a time and place, and some days the fish prefer one over the other.
    I generally prefer to use a small #3 or #5 Colorado blade on front, and a larger # 5 or #6 willowleaf on the back. I will use a silver or white willowleaf in clear water and bright conditions, but I often switch to a gold color in lowlight, or stained water.
    I use a single Colorado blade to draw strikes at night, and during extremely muddy or stained conditions, and it is especially effective early in the year for working shallow areas where there are a lot of stumps or brush. It can also be worked as a drop bait, by letting it free fall next to any cover that you come by. Often that can trigger a strike from the biggest fish of the day!
    SOFT PLASTICS
    These can really confuse you, and many anglers that are starting out, get overwhelmed with the color, and size selections of these baits. Remember that there are thousands of combinations to choose from, and they will all work, but I have narrowed my selections down to a few choice colors, and sizes etc. By doing this, I have eliminated the cause of confusion, and I always have a lot of confidence in the colors that I choose. I make my choices of style based on the experiences that I have had in the past.
    I will use a 4" finesse type of worm for fishing deeper brush piles because it comes through the thick cover more easily, without having the tail get caught. I use this on a standard Texas rig, plus I use a Bead between the weight and hook, and I can shake it in one spot to draw a lot of strikes.
    I like to use a 6"-8" Texas rigged worm for fishing shoreline cover in most lakes such as trees, or stumps, rocks, etc.
    For my Carolina Rig fishing, I have only a few choices that work for me as well. These are, a 4", 5", and 6" Lizard, a 4" or 6" Yamamoto Hula Grub. There will be times when the other baits will work as well, but those are my main choices as a staring point.
    I throw a Carolina Rig into relatively deep water, and use it to probe main lake points, channel ledges, etc. I also throw this combination when I am working large flats, or there is a lot of wind.

    JIGS
    I use these at times when I am looking for a bigger bite, or whenever the fishing is tough, such as High pressure or cold fronts. They also work well in winter months, but can catch fish year round.

    The Bass Browser made by Ralph Storey (who often posts here), are some of the finest available, and if you haven't tried them, and you fish jigs, you owe it to yourself to take a look at them. I have tried to get this lure hung, and could not! It really is that weedless!
    I use mainly Soft plastic trailers on my jigs, not because they are superior to pork, but because they are less messy, and easier to use. I rarely use any pork now at all except during winter months.
    Yamamoto makes one of the best soft plastic grubs on the market. I use the twin tails with a matching or sometimes contrasting color skirts. I can skip these lures a mile, and they draw strikes when often nothing else will. They are perfect baits for getting into places where you can't quite reach with anything else. I fish them in brush, around rocks, and especially around boat docks .

    I know that these are only a few of the lures that are out there, and that many of you have personal favorites just like I do, but I am trying to help some of the newcomers learn how to choose a lure, rather than just opening their box and going "Hmmmm…well, that looks good!"

    As I stated earlier, there are merely MY choices and the way that I decide which lures to throw in a certain area or time of day, etc. There are others with completely different choices than me. That is ok…I am just trying to get the idea across that you need to have a game plan, and an idea of where to throw certain lures, to be able to get the maximum efficiency from each one.

    Good fishin'…
    Don

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    #7

    Re: In Memory (Luke)

    Getting Organized

    By Don Applegarth

    As most of us know, it doesn't take very long to collect a huge array of tackle, and then we have to find a place to put it all. There are several tackle systems available today that can help you to organize your tackle much more efficiently.

    I prefer to use one of the bag systems, which includes several smaller boxes. By doing this, I can remove only the box which contains the lures I need, and I can easily see everything at once.

    My bag is made by Bass Pro Shops, and includes 6 Plano Model 3700 boxes, as well as two 3600 boxes, and two smaller boxes for smaller items like Hooks, weights, beads, swivels, etc. I keep these boxes in one of the outside compartments so they are always easily accessible, and within each.

    Each of the 3600 and 3700 boxes have adjustable compartments, which allows me to customize them to fit my needs.

    I have my tackle set up as follows:

    3700's

    1. Medium Crankbaits - I have several compartments for these baits, and have them divided up according to color. Most of these baits will run from about 8-12'

    2. Large Crankbaits - I have the same setup for this box, but the compartments are slightly larger, and won't hold quite as many lures. Most of my larger crankbaits run from 12-20'.

    3. Lipless Crankbaits, and Jerkbaits - I have grouped these together for saving space. I have two compartments set up in a large size for the larger Jerkbaits, and the others set up for assorted Rat-L-Traps, Cordell Spots, and Rattlin Rapalas, etc.

    4. Worms - This box contains a large assortment of plastic worms, in several styles and colors.

    5. Lizards - Same setup as the worm box. Most of the lizards I use are 6" size, but I do have a few colors in a smaller 4" and 5" size as well.

    6. Jigs - I have this box filled with both jigs as well as assorted Trailers for them.

    3600's

    1. Miscellaneous - This box contains assorted items such as Spoons, Dyes, etc.

    2. Topwater - This one has all of the topwater lures that I use in it. I have them separated according to types, such as Spooks, Pop-Rs, Minnow plugs, etc.

    Always remember to keep your soft plastics away from the other baits
    Because the oils, and petroleum base will really melt them and damage the finish on them.

    In addition, I have a soft-sided bag (made by Tackle Logic) for my Spinnerbaits, and for my Buzzbaits. This allows them to be placed into bags which can be closed. It amazes me at how many baits this small sized bag can hold efficiently.

    Many other companies also make these types of bags, and you can get them in larger sizes if desired. I know that some companies such as Cabela's, Bass Pro Shops, and Tackle Logic among others, make a complete assortment of these bags, which can hold every lure you own.

    Several of my friends like the bags for soft plastic baits, and they seem to work very well.

    Here are a few other things to think about which might make organization easier as well:

    Keep soft plastic baits inside the bag they were packaged in rather than putting them into a compartment. This allows you to combine several sizes or similar colors without them bleeding or becoming mixed up. You simply take out the bag you want, open it, select your bait, then seal it, and fold it, and it will lay back on top of the others. I can usually get 3-4 bags of soft plastic baits into each compartment in one box. I set them up so the only divider is in the center and I have several compartments on each side. One box can hold 30 - 40 bags of baits this way.

    Keeping them in the bags will also allow you to apply scents to them in the bag so it is absorbed if you like.

    Another thing that I have found helpful, are the Hook Keepers which are sold by Nancy Bielik at Lester J's Tackle. I have used these things on my crankbaits and Rat-L-Trap type baits and it helps keep the hooks from tangling in the compartment allowing me to place two or three in each one.

    On the outside of my bag (as well as most others) you'll find a few more features such as open mesh pouches or pockets which will hold things like small boxes for worm hooks, weights, etc.

    Along the back of the bag is a huge mesh pocket with several elastic bands as well which hold things like Scents, Pliers, Scissors, Dye Pens, Spare spools of line, a flashlight, and many other things.

    The bag also includes a detachable shoulder strap for helping when loading or unloading a boat. You can carry the bag and leave hands free for other items such as Rods, etc.

    On the inside of the front of my bag are 4 large zippered compartments which I use to hold bags of soft plastics (spares) and a First Aid Kit, and also a trash bag.

    I always keep a large (30 gallon or larger) trash bag folded inside for rainy weather. I can put my tackle bag inside it, and leave the top of the trash bag facing backwards or even folded under, and it really helps to keep my tackle dry.

    Remember that by knowing where everything is, and being more organized, you can quickly make selections and spend more time fishing.
    Trick'em and Stick'em…

    Don

  8. Moderator Luke's Avatar
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    #8

    Re: In Memory (Luke)

    Beginner's Guide To Bass Lures

    By Don Applegarth

    If you are just getting started in bass fishing, you are quickly learning that the vast array of tackle available to bass anglers is sometimes overwhelming. You have to wonder, "Wow, do I really have to buy all this stuff to catch bass?"

    While most lures do indeed catch fish, they are not all necessary, and many can be added later as your success increases, and your skill levels improve. Right now, it is more important to concentrate on the basics, and make your lures selections as simple as possible.

    While narrowing down your selections, might seem to limit your ability to catch fish, it will in fact, actually help you in several ways.

    When learning a new technique, you need to use colors and lures that you have confidence in, and that will allow you to concentrate more on your presentations rather than your lure color.

    For years, I tried to collect as many different lures as I could, in every color of the rainbow. I had a huge collection of what ended up being mostly junk.

    By eliminating the colors and sizes or styles I never used, I was able to purchase duplicates of the ones I had the most confidence in, and started throwing them more, and my success grew. I knew when I chose a lure, that it was going to catch fish. That added confidence helped me more than anything else I could have done.

    While I still have quite a few lures that I only occasionally use, I still have confidence in them. Some examples of these might be red crankbaits and traps. I use these almost exclusively from late January through mid March, and then rarely if at all, for the rest of the year.

    Here are the basic lures that I have and use, and I think they will help you to start building a good supply of lures to cover just about any situation you might have to face. Once you have a good basic foundation for your lure collection, you can add or subtract from it as you see fit. The basics, are the "Go-To" baits I use on new waters, and when I am searching for fish.

    First, let's break the lures down into several categories, and we can choose a few for each one. This will give you a broad spectrum of lures and each will have some colors to handle any situation you face.

    CRANKBAITS

    These are purely a matter of choice, and your individual preference. Several manufacturers produce quality lures ranging in price from under $4 each, to well over $20 ea. Remember that Price does not always dictate the lure's ability to catch fish. Certainly one would expect the quality to be better on the more expensive lures, but sometimes a very expensive and natural looking lure is less effective than a larger more brightly colored one, such as when fishing stained and muddy conditions.

    My selection of crankbaits is pretty vast, I admit, but I have at least 4-6 of each of my basic colors, so that if I loose one, I can just get another that is exactly the same, and continue fishing with the confidence that I had with the other lure.

    These are my choices, and you should make your own choices based on the crankbaits that seem to work best in your area for you.

    Sometimes in late winter/early spring, the bass here seem to prefer a crankbait that has no rattles, and a more pronounced wobble. That is when I choose a balsa crankbait, in a smaller size. My choices are usually either a Bagley's Deeper Diving Killer B II or a # 5 or # 7 Shad Rap. Both baits produce excellent results, and some days the fish prefer one over the other. I stick with a few basic colors as well.

    For the Killer B's, I use a color called "Hot Belly Craw" which has a dark brown back that fades into yellow sides and belly, with a small amount of orange on it. They also have black vertical lines along the sides (almost like the spots found along the sides of a bass near the lateral line).

    For the Shad Raps, the Crawfish color works well. It is a brownish-red color, and can draw some strikes from fish as well. Also, if you can find it, try using the original Rapala Perch color. It has yellow and green stripes on the sides. These fish, like crappie, are extremely active in cooler water, and bass will feed on them.

    I tend to use these baits in more open water areas early in the year, around the mouths of creeks, and points on the main lake. I often work them more like a jerkbait than a crankbait, and fish will often come up in deeper water to take them.

    Other colors I use in these lures are Tennessee Shad and Silver Foil with a black or blue back for the Killer B's, and a Natural Shad Pattern for the Shad Raps.

    If I feel I need to switch to a more durable or a rattling crankbait, I go to either a Bill Norman Professional Edge Series Deep Middle N crankbait, or a Bandit Series 300 crankbait.

    Both of those lures are small in size, as are the ones mentioned above, and yet can still reach depths of 12-14' easily with 10-12# test.

    I like the sunshine gelcoat colors of the Norman's, and usually throw a Lavender Shad color, or Tennessee Shad pattern. If the water is stained or muddy, I will opt for more brightly colored lures such as a Chartreuse/Blue Back or White/Chartreuse Back for the same lures. Another new color I like in muddy water is called Sour Grape, from Norman. It has a Purple back with Chartreuse sides.

    For the Bandits, I like the Crawfish patterns they offer, as well as their Pearl White, and the Tennessee Shad.

    Some people say why do you have both? Why not just one or the other? Well, the Bandits are much smaller in size than the Norman's, and often that can make a difference, even though both will reach the same depth.

    Later in the year, I usually start throwing more baitfish colors, and experiment with sizes. As the summer comes, larger baits seem to work better, and by fall, I will be using Bagley's D B III baits or a Norman DD-22. These baits will reach greater depths, and offer a bigger target to the bass. This time of year, the bass are generally feeding on large sunfish. Like bream, bluegill, etc., and the baitfish are usually as large as they will get at this time. While any baitfish color that has a white bass with a darker colored back will almost always draw strikes, sometimes a small amount of Chartreuse also helps. This is especially true when bass are feeding on bream or bluegill.

    TRAPS AND OTHER LIPLESS BAITS

    These lures can become some of the best baits you have for quickly covering water and finding aggressive bass. All it takes is a few colors, and you'll quickly build the confidence it takes to use them.

    I prefer the ½ oz size, but have found times when the ¼ oz sizes work better, so I keep a few of each handy at all times.

    Best all around color is without a doubt, Chrome/Blue Back. Others are Tennessee Shad, and Chartreuse/Blue Back.

    The only exception to this is in very early spring. Then I only throw one color. RED!

    I have found that a red colored Trap can produce some of the biggest fish I catch each year, and I use that as a confidence builder to throw it.

    There are several shades in red and orange and they will all work. Just find a few you like, and after a few fish are caught on them, narrow them down to one or two that seem to outproduce the others.

    I use the Excaliber Super Spot, in a color called Texas Red mostly. It is still produced, but the color is not as good as it once was. Originally, it had a gold foil finish with a red back. The colors are still the same, but the finish is no longer as bright (I think the removed the foil).

    I make casts up onto shallow flats with these baits, and work them back toward the drop-offs and creek channels. They can be deadly around stumps, and rocks.

    SPINNERBAITS

    These are some of my favorite lures, and ones that I always throw. It doesn't matter where or when I am fishing, I will have a spinnerbait tied on.

    I use a ½ oz size about 75% of the time, and will switch to a 1 oz or larger if needed.

    For starters though, the ½ oz size is hard to beat.

    I use a white skirt most of the time, and will opt for a chartreuse/white combination if needed because of heavily stained water.

    I use a Gold Colorado Blade on front, in a #3-4 size, with a # 4 or 5 Willow Leaf in Nickel or Chrome on back. If I am fishing Chartreuse/White skirts, I will use gold blades.

    I use white blades on front and back with white skirt many times as well. Those painted blades will draw strikes from fish in both clear and stained water.

    If it is very early spring or at night, I will change to a single Colorado blade, and use the lure around heavy cover or rock ledges. That single blade will really produce some vibration, to draw bass out of heavy cover.

    JIGS

    These are also excellent choices, and can produce some of the best fish you catch. They can be pitched, flipped, skipped, and of course, cast into areas where you would never dream of throwing other baits.

    I use several styles and sizes of jigs for a variety of different applications, but here are the basics.

    I use a ½ oz Bass Browser with skirts in black, black/blue, watermelon/red flake, and brown.

    For trailers, I rarely use pork anymore, simply because it is such a hassle. With the soft plastic trailers we have today, I see no reason to. The soft plastics are salted, and extremely soft, and fish will hold them about as well as pork. The exception is when water temps are extremely cold (40 or below) and the plastic becomes too stiff. Then Pork definitely has an advantage.

    I like to use several different trailers for these lures. I use a Yamamoto 3 series Crawfish, a 16 series Twin Tail Grub, and sometimes a Zoom Pork Chunk (plastic Pork frog imitation).

    For colors, I generally use something close to the skirt color; for example, I like to use a black blue claw crawfish with a black/blue skirt. I will also use the Pearl smoke blue color (240) with the black/blue, or a brown skirted jig.

    I also use several types of jigheads for working smaller jigs over deeper water areas.

    For more information about those types of heads, take a look at the "Fishing Jigs" series written by Russ "Bassdozer" Comeau, at the Inside Line Website (http://www.insideline.net). This article is in four parts, and covers every aspect of jig fishing in great detail. It is excellent reading for any bass angler, no matter what their experience level.

    WORMS

    This section is going to include not only worms, but also several types of soft plastic baits. The reason for this is that many of these baits can be fished several ways, and can be some of the most versatile tools you can own.

    I recommend using several styles and sizes of worms, and learning when to throw each one. I think the action of the bait is often more critical than the exact color you are using.

    Basic colors include a few dark colors, neutral or medium colors, and some light colors to represent crawfish as well as baitfish and sunfish.

    I use worms that are 4-5" in length with straight bodies and tails for much of my fishing in the clear waters here. These small slender bodies not only represent much of the natural forage of the bass, but also allow you to work thick cover more easily. A large curly tail or ribbon tail worm, will become snagged more easily, and end up causing more frustration to you in the long run.

    The 4" Cuttail worms from Yamamoto, as well as the Zoom Finesse worms and Meathead worms work well for fishing deep thick cover such as rocks and brushpiles in clear water.

    For colors, I like Sand, Smoke, Gourd Green, Watermelon, Watermelon/Red Flake, June Bug, Pumpkinseed, Green Pumpkin, and Red Shad, as my basics. I use several others as well, but these basic colors will cover about any conditions you are faced with, as good starter colors.

    Use a 1/0-2/0 Gamakatsu Hook, and a ¼ oz weight and a 6mm Glass or plastic bead to rig these baits weedless, on light line and spinning equipment. I prefer to use line that is in the 8-10# test range, and the new flourocarbons are excellent for this.

    A good 6 ½- 7' Medium action Graphite rod, and a medium sized spinning reel is all you'll need for this type of fishing.

    Drop the baits down into the cover, and work them slowly by shaking them or doodling them through the branches of the trees and brush or bouncing them along touching the rocks along a ledge. Often this is an excellent way to catch fish from deep schools.

    For fishing in weeds or other vegetation, I prefer to use a worm with a big curly tail or a ribbon tail, such as the Zoom U-Tail, Magnum II, or a Culprit, ranging in sizes from 7 ½" - 10". Best colors seem to be shades of Green around green vegetation, but sometimes a darker color like Junebug and Green Pumpkin or Red Shad works well too. This is especially true during low-light conditions, such as nights, or on overcast and rainy days.

    I use a lizard in a 4", 5", and 6" size about 75% of the time when Carolina Rigging. The added bulk of this type of bait allows it to float more freely off the bottom, and the added appendages are excellent for getting the attention of the nearby bass. Good colors are Sand, Watermelon, Pumpkinseed/Chartreuse Tail, Junebug, and Green Pumpkin.

    Another good alternative to the lizards for Carolina Rigs, is the Yamamoto Hula Grub, or the Senko in any number of sizes. Somedays, the fish will want a larger bait, and on other days the smaller ones might work better. These should be also the same colors mentioned above.

    There are several great soft jerkbaits available now, and each can work effectively at times throughout the year. I have found that these baits will take fish from early pre-spawn all the way through early winter.

    My favorites include the Yamamoto Senko in the 9 series (5") size, along with the Zoom Super Fluke, and the Zoom Trick Worms. The best colors for these baits have always been a white or chartreuse color for me, although sometimes a "Shock" color such as a bright yellow, orange, and even pink. Will draw more strikes from wary fish that have seen the other colors.



    I almost always use a 3/0-4/0 Extra Wide Gap Gamakatsu hook for this type of fishing, and no weight. I do add a barrel swivel about 8-10" from the hook to help prevent line twist.

    The Senkos are extremely heavy due to their higher salt content, and can be cast a mile without any added weight. They also sink much faster, and have a very unique quivering and fluttering action as the fall toward the bottom with a gliding motion.

    The Flukes are more like a baitfish in shape, and you can work them more quickly over shallow weeds, and heavy cover to draw fish toward the top to strike them.

    The Trickworms are somewhere in between, They are shaped more like a Senko, but are much tougher and lighter, like the Flukes.

    Buzzbaits

    These baits are useful at times, especially in the spring and fall, and will draw strikes from bass that are roaming and feeding aggressively. They allow you to cover water quickly, and can catch some big bass.

    I like to use them in water that is stained and around thick shallow cover.

    I think white is the best all around color, and will usually produce well.

    TOPWATERS

    These are always fun to use, and are often an excellent way to catch the biggest fish of the day. Best used during low-light conditions, these baits can be found in a variety of shapes and sizes.

    For starters though, here are the ones you'll need to purchase and then learn to use.

    Original size Zara Spooks, in colors like Bass, or Shore Minnow. Also a Clear one works well if the water you fish is extremely clear.

    Pop-R's are other baits you must have. Rebel makes these, and there is a larger version with better hooks and finishes made by Excaliber as well.

    Chrome, and Bass colors work well.

    Prop Baits like the Torpedo, Devil's Horse, and Crippled Killer are also an excellent choice.

    Standard baitfish colors work best for topwater baits under most conditions.

    Remember that a faster retrieve with lighter colored baits works best in clear open water, and don't be afraid to work them over deep water too.

    A slower more deliberate retrieve with darker colors and a bait that makes some noise works best in stained water, and is usually better near some type of shallow cover.

    I hope that this guide will give you a better idea of how to select baits, when stocking your tackle box, and also when making selections on the water.

    Choosing the right bait, for the right application is important, and will soon help you build confidence in your own abilities to choose areas to fish, knowing that you have the right bait for the conditions.

    Trick'em and Stick'em…

    Don

  9. Moderator Luke's Avatar
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    #9

    Re: In Memory (Luke)

    Winter Fishing

    By Don Applegarth

    Winter is the time when everything seems to slow down, including the bites of hungry bass, and makes us often wonder if spring will ever arrive.

    For many anglers nationwide, this season becomes almost unbearable due to the ice and snow that prohibit bass fishing completely, but for many of us, it is still possible to take bass year round, if you learn to adjust your methods accordingly.

    First and foremost is the fact that winter is a dangerous time to be on the water. It is not something to take lightly, and dressing warm is not only more comfortable, but it can actually save your life. Be sure to keep the extremities well insulated at all times, including your head. That cap you wear during most of the year is great, but in winter, a good knit hat that will keep your head warm is much more important, and should always be worn.

    Gloves are also an important consideration, and you should be certain to have your hands covered at all times as well. I use some of the neoprene type gloves that resemble a scuba divers wet suit. They keep my hands warm, and dry all day long, yet still allow me to feel the bites, and tie knots etc. I make sure to remove the fingertips of the thumb, and first two fingers on each hand. That way, you never need to remove the gloves for any reason, such as tying knots, or changing lures etc.

    Locating Bass

    During the winter months, bass move out into deep open water areas on most large reservoirs, and will often school, and follow baitfish. These fish are easily caught with a spoon, once they have been located.

    The best places to locate these fish are often far away from the shoreline, along deep creek channels, or secondary points. Try and find areas that also have some type of cover on them such as stumps, or standing timber along the breakline.

    The baitfish will usually be found holding at depths of 15-20' here, and the bass are usually holding from 10 - 15' below them. Many schools of baitfish will be located during the day, but the ones that have other fish holding below them are the ones that you need to concentrate your efforts on.

    You'll quickly notice that all the schools of baitfish will be found holding at approximately the same depth throughout the lake.

    Once you have established that depth, you can key on finding structure at about the same general depth.

    I look for a creek channel ledge in about 20-25' of water, and then follow along the edge of the drop off until a school of baitfish is found. Bends in the channels are great places, as are bluffs or rock banks where the channel swings in close to the steep shoreline.

    Standing timber on long tapering points are also excellent places to search for these bass.

    Once you have found the bass, all you need is a good 6 ½ - 7' heavy action rod loaded with 14 - 17 # test, and ¾ - 1 oz. Structure spoon. These are not the same as the spoons used for trolling or casting, such as a Johnson Silver Minnow, or a Daredevil. Instead these are heavy pieces of lead, that will drop quickly, and have a very unique fluttering motion.

    The best of these have a solid brass core, such as Hopkins, or Bass Pro-Shops Strata Spoons. Some have a bucktail, while others have a bare treble on the rear.

    The most important thing about fishing these baits, is the use of a split ring or a snap to attach the line to them. Many anglers make the mistake of attaching the line directly to the bait, or using a snap swivel. Both of these will impede the action of the spoon, and cause you get a lot fewer strikes.

    Once you have found the bass, and positioned the boat atop them, drop your bait straight down into them. Allowing it to fall all the way to the bottom (assuming you have located the bass holding tightly along some type of structure). Engage the reel, and take out the slack so that you feel the bait with your rod tip pointed down, about 6" - 12" above the water's surface.

    Now, using a snapping motion, raise the rod's tip upward to about a 9 or 10 o'clock position and then lower it back watching the line as you go. You'll want to ensure that the rod tip falls at the same rate as the line, so it does not interfere with the action of the bait. The line needs to have a slight bit of slack in it, but not enough that you can't see it falling. Then repeat, over and over.

    This rising and falling action is an exact duplication of a dying baitfish during the late fall and winter months. The spoon flutters helplessly as it falls, and the bass will hit it hard. You won't feel the hit, until you lift again, then you'll need to strike hard, and keep constant pressure on the fish. Spoons are very heavy and can be easily thrown, so you don't want to allow any slack in your line.

    I always make certain that I have lighter wire treble hooks on my spoons, and use a larger size than what they usually come with. These are sharper and penetrate quickly.

    Whenever you get the spoon snagged (and you will) just lower your rod tip, allowing a slight bit of slack in the line, and shake it from side to side. 95% of the time, this will cause the hooks to pull free, due to the weight of the spoon.

    While it might take several hours to locate just the right spot for jigging spoons, it will be worth the extra effort when you start to catch fish after fish with them, often as many as 50 or 60 fish in a few minutes. It is possible to catch them on every drop, in the right spot.

    Many types of spoons will work for you, including the ones I mentioned above (Hopkins, Strata Spoons) and also the following:

    Team DUH spoons, Flex-It spoons, Mann-O-Lure, Cordell's C.C. Spoons, and many others.

    Colors are pretty basic for most spoons, and I use chrome, gold, white, and chartreuse.

    These baits seem to work best in clear water, but can also produce in stained water as well. If you want to change the color of the spoon, here is a simple way to do that as well.

    Take a tube bait, and slide it down over the head of the spoon, so the tail is over the treble hook, then run the eye of the spoon through the top of the tube. The tube will conform to the shape of the spoon (flat) and not impede the action as it falls. It also allows you to add any attractants if you prefer, and gives the bait a better feel to the fish when it attacks.

    While spoons are not the only baits to use during the winter months, they are some of the best for locating and catching a lot of fish. These baits are not as popular as others like worms and jigs, but should be lures that you have on board, and learn to use.

    I will try and discuss some other baits to use in a future article on winter fishing, and areas to use them.

    I hope the spoon tips will help you with your winter fishing and allow you to continue your fishing on into the colder months, with continued success.

    Trick'em and Stick'em…

    Don

  10. Moderator Luke's Avatar
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    #10

    Re: In Memory (Luke)

    Find the bait to find bass!

    By Don Applegarth

    Fall, like spring, is a time for transition. That is, the fish begin to move and prepare for the changing seasons.

    In the spring, most anglers realize that the bass move fairly shallow and are looking to spawn, but they are also actively feeding for weeks prior to the actual spawning process. The same thing holds true for the fish in the fall as well.

    As the water temperature begins to cool, the schools of baitfish that have been roaming the open water areas all summer will again move back into the creeks and pockets to spawn. This activity normally starts to occur whenever surface temps reach the low 70s to the mid 60's.

    By starting at the points along the mouths of creeks, you can follow this migration as the fish move further and further back into these areas. Fast moving baits seem to work best, and you should concentrate on covering water, rather than using slow moving worms and jigs. Many anglers think that the baitfish are always shallow in the fall, but that is not always the case. My suggestion, is that as you move into the creeks, you key on the creek channel ledges with your electronics. Often the bait will be only a few feet deep, but if you are fishing in the shallow areas, they are most likely on the other side of the boat, suspended over deeper areas.

    To start your search, use crankbaits along the points. I would also have a good topwater bait rigged and close by for the topwater explosions that could occur at any time of the day in these areas.

    As the fish move further back into the pockets, bait selections can be added, such as Rat-L-Traps and other similar lipless offerings. Spinnerbaits also are an excellent choice at this time, and a Buzzbait along the shallow areas will often produce the biggest fish of the day.

    This fishing can last anywhere from two weeks to a month, and if you hit it just right, it can be the absolute best fishing of the year.

    Once the surface temps drop to about 60, the lake is turning over, and the action can slow significantly. When this occurs, it is time to move back out to the main lake areas and slow down, often using baits like a dropshot or Carolina rig to entice bass to bite. The Turnover won't last more than a few days, and feeding activity will increase again.

    Hunting is the best known activity in the fall around much of the country, but if you have a few hours to spare, I recommend giving fall fishing a try. If you are like me, it will soon become your favorite season of the entire year!




  11. Moderator Luke's Avatar
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    #11

    Re: In Memory (Luke)

    Covering Water Effectively

    By Don Applegarth

    I have been asked by several people what I do to cover water whenever I am fishing, say a new lake or whenever I am trying to locate some fish, and put together a pattern. This is a subject that is very broad, and can be discussed at great length, I will try here to list some of the things that I consider when choosing a bait, and an area to fish.

    The first thing that I consider is the time of year. By this, I try and figure out where the fish should be. If it is late winter or very early spring, then I know the fish are going to be relatively deep, and lethargic. Therefore, I will try to find ledges, and drop-offs, that are at the mouths of creeks, and river bends.


    I will usually try fishing these areas with crankbaits, and spinnerbaits slow rolled first. If I can not get any takers, then I will try using worms, or jigs, and fish slower.
    If it is later in the spring, but still pre-spawn, I will use faster moving baits such as a Rat-L-Trap or crankbaits and spinnerbaits, but moved a little faster. I will also move away from the deeper ledges, and start to look in the first half of some major creeks. Start at the channels, and work toward the shallower water. Many times fish will move up onto flats in these areas and feed, then return to the depths. Look for places where there is a drastic depth change from say 6' - about 10 or more.

    Another consideration, is the weather. If it is windy, I always fish the windy side first. That is where the baitfish are usually located. While it is not the easiest way to fish under these conditions, it is almost always the most productive.

    For these conditions, I use a fast moving bait like a Crankbait, Rat-L-Trap, or a Spinnerbait, and work the areas quickly. It is very important to cast into the wind whenever possible/ This can be a nightmare, but it gives the bait a more natural presentation, and the fish are usually feeding facing into the wind, like a current in a river. While these little details seem unimportant, they make a huge difference in the size, and numbers of fish caught.

    During the summer months, and warmer weather conditions, I usually start out with topwaters, and then switch to a Buzzbait, and then crankbaits and blades. Once fish have been located, I will slow down, and work these areas with slower baits like a Carolina rigged Lizard, or a Texas rigged worm.

    If you are fishing overcast conditions in warm weather months, I recommend that you try a topwater bait all day long, as well as other faster moving lures, and keep moving. Fish are prone to be feeding all day long under such conditions, and can be caught.

    Soft Jerkbaits are always tied onto one of my rods, just as a Spinnerbait is. I use these to search areas as well. They can be worked very rapidly, and will draw strikes from less aggressive fish just as well as the more aggressive ones. If you are fishing a soft jerkbait, and a fish misses the lure, stop it! Let it fall, sometimes all the way to the bottom. About 50% of the time, that fish will come back and get it. If it doesn't, twitch it, and then jerk it back to the top, and let it fall again. A few feet, and return to your retrieve.

    I think that soft Jerkbaits are one of the most underrated lures on the market today. If you have not tried them, you should. You are missing a lot of fish, and a lot of BIG fish as well, especially during the spring months.

    Covering water is important, but you have to be able to go slow enough to work the areas effectively as well. I will use a stop and start technique with my trolling motor. I usually keep it on a relatively high speed setting then move about 10 - 15' and stop. The boat will continue to drift while I make several fan casts to the areas around me. If not takers, then I go another 10 - 15' and so on. Many people prefer to use a slower setting and keep moving constantly while searching waters for bass. I think they cover a good deal of water, but they miss a lot of targets, that I always try to hit, until I come across a pattern.

    By this I mean, that if I see after a few minutes that I am only catching bass on stumps, I will move faster, and only slow down whenever I am fishing stumps.

    I hope this article has been of some help to you all in understanding effective ways to cover water.

    Good fishin'…

    Don

  12. Moderator Luke's Avatar
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    #12

    Re: In Memory (Luke)

    Skipping for Bass

    By Don Applegarth

    Boat houses, docks, slips…they're known by many names. The one fact they all share is that they are home to some large fish populations. For many, the problem has always been trying to reach them, or getting them to come out and take our offerings. I have discovered a few techniques that I employ to reach these secluded bass, which are uninterested in leaving the comforts of home. I think that if we can get a lure close enough to them, they will take it, as long as they do not have to chase it down. In my opinion, "skipping" is one of the easiest ways to approach these bass. It does take some practice, but is much simpler than many people believe. The key is to be willing to try it.

    How to Skip

    Most anglers use spinning equipment to reach these protected dock areas, most of the time that works best. However, with a little patience and practice, it can also be achieved using baitcasting equipment.

    Approach the dock as you usually do, but stay out away from the dock, about ten feet or so, and make a sidearm cast, keeping the rod tip very low to the water. Try to hit the water at the very edge of the dock and allow it to skip all the way to the back.

    One of the biggest mistakes I made when trying to figure out this technique was trying to "force" my lures back under the docks. After years of trial and error, I have found that the best approach is a finesse type cast. I want to make the cast hard enough to get the bait to the back, but soft enough to give a relatively quiet entry. This will make for more accurate casting and fewer hang-ups (which are inevitably going to happen) on the underside of the dock's railings and structure.

    I start out skipping along one side, and then work my way slowly around the front and down the other side of the dock. For spinning equipment, line size and types are a matter of choice, but my personal preference is 10-pound test Trilene XT. I prefer the monofilament, but if you like the new Super lines, then go for it. I know they have increased feel and the strength might be an added plus for this technique, especially when horsing a big bass from the deep, thick cover that many docks conceal.

    Equipment Choices

    I use a 6' 6" medium heavy action rod that is I-M6 or greater graphite, the most sensitive I can find. I use a medium freshwater spinning reel with instant anti-reverse and at least 3 ball bearings. For gearing, again it is a matter of choice, I use a 5.3:1 reel. The particular reel that I use is an Abu-Garcia model UC 2000 F. I match this with a Bass Pro Shop's Tourney Special Rod, and I'm all set.

    With the spinning setup, I use a sidearm front cast and keep my finger on the side of the spool to "feather" the casts, slowing them somewhat as the lure slows. Once the lure has stopped pulling line, I manually close the bail and pull out about six inches of additional line out, forcing the drag to slip. This ensures that the drag is properly set, and also prevents any line twist that causes so many tangle problems with spinning equipment. If you can get into the habit of pulling the line, after each cast, you will never have the knots, and tangles so common with these reels.

    When using a baitcasting outfit for this technique, I again choose a 6' 6" medium heavy action graphite rod, and an Abu-Garcia model 4600c reel, generally with 14- to 17-pound test monofilament. I like this reel because of the 5.3:1 gears, and the instant anti-reverse. Another great feature of this reel is that it has a small, narrow spool, which virtually eliminates most backlashes, and makes life easier. Abu-Garcia now makes a newer version which is supposed to eliminate backlashes completely, but I have yet to try it.

    I make most of my casts with this combination by using a backhand cast, much like a backhand in a tennis match. This enables me to better control the bait, and make it seem to glide across the surface of the water. You can also use a regular front cast, like with the spinning equipment, but for me the backhand style seems to work best. I use a 6'6" rod because longer ones seem to get too close to the dock, and I have broken many rod tips this way.

    Bait and Rigging

    I use a couple of bait options, depending on where I think the bass are. I use soft jerkbaits, such as the Yamamoto Senko, or even a large Ika, if I believe the bass are suspended underneath the dock, or under the floatation pads on floating docks.

    Rigging is simple. First, I have found for this application a smaller than normal leader works best. Take about 8 to 10 inches of mono and attach it to a small barrel swivel. On the other end is a 3/0 to 5/0 Wide Gap hook. Attach the swivel to your line, and then rig the hook and jerkbait Tex-posed, it's similar to a standard Texas-rig.

    The one difference between a Texas rig, and a Tex-posed rig is that you push the hook point all the way through the plastic, so that its point is exposed, and lying parallel to the body of the bait. Then pull the hook back slightly and insert the hook point just under the skin of the bait. This makes the bait somewhat weedless without giving up that great hook-setting power.

    Make a cast to the far reaches of the dock's underside, and then just let it sit a few seconds. If nothing happens, take up the slack and give it a few quick twitches and pause again. Then, I will usually start a twitch-and-pause cadence of some type, back to the boat.

    Another bait that works well for me is the Yamamoto Series # 12 Twin Tail Grub with a #11 skirt. I use a 1/4 oz jighead with a 3/0 or 4/0 hook for this technique. The 66-series Yamamoto head also work well but I like the lighter, wire type weedguards, so I use some made by a local angling buddy.

    Another jighead that is the ultimate for this rig is the Bass Browser Jig, made by Ralph Storey. Story says, "This jig is completely weedless, and will come through anything you throw it into, and yet, the weedguard doesn't interfere with its hook-setting ability at all. I have a brushpile that I used to test prototypes, until I found the right combination of head style and weedguard. I can throw this bait into that brushpile 100 times and it will come through every time!"

    Its unique wire weedguard system is incredible. I have purposely thrown this into every hedge and rose bush in my yard at home, and it comes right through it. For more information on this jig contact Ralph at (517) 694-0309, or e-mail bassbrowser@cs.com.

    Once rigged on this head, I use the same techniques to skip it to the backs of the docks. Allow it to fall on a semi-tight line, so that you may watch for any twitch or slight movement that would indicate a strike.

    Brushpiles

    Most docks here have brushpiles under them, planted by the owners, as well as several more placed away from the dock by local anglers. These are intended to draw some fish out of the docks, but if the fish have some cover deep within the docks, they have no reason to leave.

    Homeowners believe that by placing brushpiles inside their dock, especially ones with a closed garage-type door on it, they have a private honey hole. Largely, they are correct. But if you are very careful, and master the skipping technique, you will be able to share it with them. I would like to ask that you please remember, while you have every right to fish the waters of any reservoir, you do not have the right to enter, or step upon another persons property, such as the dock. Many times, I have had dock owners ask me to leave the dock and not fish it.

    After spending many hours arguing with these folks I have found that, while I usually have every right to fish that area, I can't win and arguing is futile. So I just go to the next dock, and continue fishing. I found that by being polite, and courteous, I have actually had dock owners tell me about some of the many brushpiles they have added to the areas around their docks.

    General Tips

    Skipping is a great way to take bass from a row of docks that have already been fished by a few other boats. Here are a few other things to keep in mind that could increase your hookups tremendously.

    During the spawning season, as well as in the late fall, and early winter, most of the bigger bass (especially largemouth) seem to hold in the shallow areas where the walkway and backside of the dock platform intersect. Many times these spots have brush or stumps and they make a perfect spawning area due to the fact that they are protected by the cover of the walkway, guidewires, and the dock itself. I have seen so many people who knew the fish were there, and could see them, but did not know how to get to them.

    Skipping allows you to get the bait under the cables that anchor the docks to the shoreline, and also up underneath the walkway. During the late pre-spawn many bass will suspend just underneath the Styrofoam floats (about a foot below the surface), and attack any lures that come by. That is when I usually try the jerkbait technique. Here on Lanier, it isn't uncommon to take as many as 30 to 50 bass per day at that time.

    As most anglers know, big females like to rub against any kind of timber or wood cover near the spawning areas. They do this to loosen their eggs just prior to spawning. In many cases, skipping will allow you to get your bait next to the inside of the tree, or bush. It is essentially another form of "Flipping" whenever used in this manner.

    I know a lot of anglers will flip jigs and worms into these areas, but a soft jerkbait is really difficult to flip due to the lighter weight, and once it's there, how do you work it out? Skipping seems to be a great alternative for this application.

    While this technique requires some practice and patience, to me it is well worth the extra effort. It won't be any more difficult than learning to flip or pitch, and will soon become a favorite technique. If you are willing to give it a try, I feel certain that you will soon see many areas in a new way, and suddenly be able to fish a lot of the areas that were previously inaccessible.

    Add the skipping technique to your angling bag of tricks, and I believe you will be amazed by the results. It has really helped to increase the weights in my livewell, and I know it can help you as well.


  13. Member
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    #13

    Re: In Memory (shawn706)

    good post
    WHY DON'T WE CHUG ON DOWN TO MAMBY-PAMBY LAND WHERE MAYBE WE CAN FIND SOME SELF CONFIDENCE FOR YOU YA JACKWAGON!!

  14. BOOMER SOONER OkieBud's Avatar
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    #14

    Re: In Memory (Firedawg)


  15. Member
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    #15

    Re: In Memory (shawn706)

    Great post. I printed it off.

  16. Member
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    #16

    Re: In Memory (shawn706)

    Thanks! It's now in hard copy at my house and I will be reading it all over and over.

  17. Member
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    #17

    Re: In Memory (Bill Barham)

    Will be making my copy now...what a mind!!!



  18. Member
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    #18

    Re: In Memory (stranz3529)

    Wow..............

  19. Member blazin461's Avatar
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    #19

    Re: In Memory (Maxpress)

    I had to reload my printer twice. Great info.





  20. Member shawn706's Avatar
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    #20

    Re: In Memory (blazin461)

    Theres more info on this thread than you'll get from a 10 yr subscription to Bassmasters.

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