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  1. #1
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    Optimax idle issues and overheat alarm

    Trying to condense all my issues into one post so please forgive me if it’s wordy- My motor is a 2010 Opti 75 Sn 1B791154 with maybe 200 hours on it. I bought the boat used in 2020, and at the time it only had 75 hours on it, no idea how many I’ve put on but honestly 200 total is probably generous. When I got it, i had it looked over by a mech who said everything was mechanical sound, but the fuel system needed redone. Fuel lines had disintegrated and completely clogged the fuel pump, so first thing I did along with all of the recommended maintenance in the sticky, was to replace all fuel lines, completely rebuilt pump, changed plugs, filters, and ran some power tune through it. Well the motor always seems to run great, except for frequently stalling out at idle. Never had an issue at anything above idle speed, but especially the first couple times starting it during a day of fishing, it will start up great, and then within maybe 30s to a minute sounds like it’s bogging down and dies, almost like letting the clutch off in a manual without giving it enough gas. Usually i can hear it about to die and shift into gear and it’ll kick back up but it’s strange in how it doesn’t seem to happen all the time, or even every time. I’ve talked to Don some about it and most recently, we left it at needing to change spark plugs again, the usual annual maintenance, and then inspect for a loose belt. I will through it out there that I have changed spark plugs properly gapped once a year, and the problem has never gone away, some days it seems better than others, and there are occasions it won’t die once all day. Well last night I got around to inspecting the belt, and it appears to be in great shape, no fraying or cracking and still quite tight. I did however notice quite a bit of rust color dust all over the top of the air compressor as well as the fins in the alternator. Is this something that could be related to my issue or is that normal wear and tear from the belt? On a side note, last week I had a solid alarm which I believe to be an overheat alarm, boat was still peeing but I immediately shut it off. After fishing for maybe an hour, it started and we ran it with no alarms, but then once more when getting ready to load the boat, it kicked the alarm on. Both times that it happened, the boat was at idle, one time for sure was after running WOT for maybe 15 min, and then after coming off plane and idling for a minute or two it kicked on. The second time may have been a similar scenario, or it could’ve been right after start up before gassing it to get on plane, honestly can’t remember because I had just caught my first striper and was caught up in the moment. Upon reading that a solid alarm is an overheat, it occurred to me that even though I’ve replaced my water pump annually, I had been forgetting to clean the water strainer(with the exception of the very first time I changed stuff). I’m hoping that it’s simply a clogged strainer, but I don’t fish very much dirty water that I’d expect it to be full of grass or something. Could this overheat alarm be tied in with the stalling issue? I doubt it because it’s had the stall issue since I’ve owned it, and last week was the first time I’ve ever had an alarm. Like I said I’ve been back and forth with Don in the DMs, but I thought maybe I should move it to a public post where someone else with a similar problem could find the solution they need. Feel free to check my post history, I have a couple documenting the history of the problem.
    Thanks!!
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  2. Member
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    #2
    Remove the belt and spin the alternator, tensioner, and check the compressor bearing. That's a lot of rust for that motor. Chances are it's going to be the alternator bearing being dry. You will know as soon as you spin it. If it's noisy then it's bad. Motor can set temp alarm off after a hard run, revving the motor a little will push more water through the system and it should cool off and shut the alarm down. Not sure about your idle issue but if the alternator isn't working properly it could be low voltage to ignition system.
    Old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill

  3. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #3
    Michael:

    That's a good idea, only problem is that just means I have to go through the entire process, and type out the same things again.

    As we've discussed- very unlikely that the overheat is directly related.

    Fresh water pump, CLEAN STRAINER, and a fresh set of spark plugs. Then see where you are at.

    BTW... the reddish color stain/dust IS normal on this model.

    We can leave your engine here in the 3L forum... even if it's just 1/2 of one.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  4. Member
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    #4
    I’m assuming the dust is coming from the belt then? That’s what was initially concerning, good to know it’s nothing to worry about. I will have some time tomorrow to clean the strainer out, lol fingers crossed it’s just a big wad of grass? I reach out to the parts email to inquire about an order so in the meantime, I’m going to try and catch up on all my greasing. I have been warned numerous times about overgreasing ez lube trailer hubs, basically being told if it’s not leaking out anywhere don’t add more or you can pop a seal…are any of the greasable zerk fittings this way? For example the zerk on the cylinder for the steering, I don’t know if I ever recall greasing it, but at the same time I’ve never had an issue or anything…

  5. Member
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    #5
    No issue greasing the zerks on your Optimax, I pump new grease in until I see fresh start to ooze out then stop and wipe the area clean - make that part of your annual service. Be sure to do the trim balls too and check the sockets to ensure they're not worn.
    _______

    Phil
    '09 Hewescraft ProV
    '09 150 Optimax


  6. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #6
    No trim balls on this model, but otherwise, grease until you see evidence of grease beginning to leak. DON'T attempt to "change out the grease", simply fill the void until full of grease and STOP.

    The dust you see is a combination of belt and rust that develops on steel pulleys.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  7. Member
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    #7
    10-4,I’m guessing if there’s no trim balls then there’s no sockets either? Are there zerks under the cowling that need grease or is it basically external components like trim and steering? On the topic of greasing, what is the proper way to check my trim fluid level? I believe I had read this is recommended maintenance in the FSM, but the one time I tried messing with it years ago, I can recall getting the plastic plug slightly loose, and fully using starting to drip out so I believe I just closed it back up quick and haven’t given it any other thought. Never had an issue with the trim, just don’t know if there’s something to do I’m missing.

  8. Member
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    #8
    Don, I cleaned the strainer tonight and I hate to say it was spotless, as in, not a single thing on it… I tried to backflush, and as soon as I turned the water on the engine started to make a loud buzzing sound, almost like a piezo buzzer coming from somewhere between cylinder two and three, tell tale was peeing but just barely, full stream but when I put my finger up to the hole I could barely feel any pressure. Any ideas?

  9. Member
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    #9
    Update: ran the hose for about 20 minutes or so, occasionally the buzzing sound would stop, gurgle a little like water is moving through the block, and then continue buzzing. If I held my finger over the tell tale, or wiggled the waterline leading to the strainer, I could kind of get it to briefly stop buzzing and gurgle some. Once on its own it sputtered and shot water out of the tell tale forcefully, but then went back to buzzing with a measly stream.

  10. Member
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    #10
    Update 2: Before hitting the lake this morning, I tried to remove the cover for the t stat and poppit valve, I removed all 4 bolts but the cover is seriously stuck on, it looks like it has been painted over and the paint is sticking it to the power head. Any tips on how to remove it? I tried lightly tapping it to break it free but no luck, I was worried about tearing the gasket without having a spare, so I figure chances are I’ll have to order another before tackling this.

  11. Member
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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by EuropeanAM View Post
    No trim balls on this model, but otherwise, grease until you see evidence of grease beginning to leak. DON'T attempt to "change out the grease", simply fill the void until full of grease and STOP.

    The dust you see is a combination of belt and rust that develops on steel pulleys.
    Forgot it's half a 3L.
    _______

    Phil
    '09 Hewescraft ProV
    '09 150 Optimax


  12. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #12
    Don't attempt to remove that cover unless you have a thermostat, poppet, grommet and gasket ready to install.

    And please: HAVE YOU REPLACED THE WATER PUMP IMPELLER AND GASKETS YET?????


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  13. Member
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    #13
    Waiting for a chance to install the new water pump, hopefully sometime this weekend maybe… why is it that you suggest also having a spare t stat and poppit? Are these commonly damaged during removal? I was under the impression they rarely go bad, but it’s not uncommon for debris to get stuck. Now that I have a merc monitor on order, I’ll probably wait to dig into the t stat until after the water pump is replaced, and I get a chance to see how it runs while I’m able to monitor engine data unless I’m advised otherwise.

  14. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #14
    If you open that poppet, and go to the trouble to clean all of the gasket material without getting one single tiny little shard of gasket into passages/openings, you'll want to go ahead and replace all wear/maintenance components inside there while there.

    I do NOT currently believe the problem is under that cover... and still strongly encourage you to go back to the SOURCE: The Water Pump.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  15. Member
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    #15
    Don speaks, we LISTEN!!

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    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Champ 2001 View Post
    Don speaks, we LISTEN!!
    Absolutely!! People like Don make it hard to imagine owning anything but a Merc. Thanks again for all the help, I’ll report back hopefully later this week after I get the new pump on. Fingers crossed that’s all it takes.

  17. Member
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    #17
    If you need it, there's an engine specific pictorial in the FAQ - 1.5L (75-125hp 3 cyl) Optimax Water Pump Replacement

    _______

    Phil
    '09 Hewescraft ProV
    '09 150 Optimax


  18. Member
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    #18
    Quick update…. I installed a new water pump, old impeller looked brand new, got out to fish this afternoon and although I only ran the motor MAYBE an hour, no overheat alarm! Hopefully it stays this way, but last time I had the alarm go off, it was only once after a whole day of fishing, right towards the end of the night and having run the motor quite a bit more than I did today. I’m getting excited to install the Mercmonitor to really keep an eye on things. Can’t have everything though, today the motor was finickier than usual, stalling out maybe 4-5 times when trying to get it off the trailer, but after the initial warm up, she ran good as usual.

  19. Member
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    #19
    did you pump bulb before starting engine??? that afternoon
    .................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................

  20. Member
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    #20
    Yes, I’ve started making it a habit to pump the bulb every time I start it now, and if anything, it seems like it starts worse. On a side note, I have the new spark plugs here, should I go ahead and install them before going out tomorrow or should I wait and do the plugs, fuel filter, air filter, and belt all at once in a week or two when the rest of the stuff shows up?

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