Pumps/switches/aeration and Hydro… one last time?

[Sluggo42]

Another newbie here, and I think the hydro aeration process hasn’t been discussed enough. “j/K!” But seriously, mine is a 2006 198, and I have read a million threads about using the wet wells, and how to use the (recirc/empty/auto switch).
since I replaced the 3-way valve, I know that it doesn’t turn on anything, but rather directs flow. The instruction from the guy I bought the boat from were very limited, and included a warning about having the 3-way set to something,at the same time a dash switch was selected, would result in wet well overflowing onto the deck…

so initially, one should set the selector to “recirc”, and then turn on the “Aerator” switch to manual, to fill the wetwell. Does one need to keep looking at that level physically, until it’s right up to the drain pipe? Or, do you just leave it on for a while, and it won’t overflow due to drain pipe?

then, turn it off, or turn to auto? And I’m also assuming one needs to at this point, turn the 3-way valve to “auto” as well?
ok, now we get to the infamous “Hydro” switch. (And more on the extension in a minute). My understanding of this function is that the pump just moves the water from one side to the other, but the magic happens when the vacuum pressure created by the running water, grabs air from the little hole on top of the pipe, and then releases it out the bottom of the pipe, creating actual bubbles, like an aquarium of sorts. And really does a good job of aeration I hear.
now, let’s discuss the “auto” side of the aeration and hydro switches. Is it a good practice for most normal conditions, to just have every switch set on “auto” after initial wet well filling? I’m assuming the aeration “auto” just brings fresh water in, and the excess just rolls out of the overflow pipe? So a hypothetical situation, let’s say a hot summer day, with water temps way up there. Would it perhaps be wiser to not run the aeration switch after filling,and maybe ice the water down, and run the hydro function a lot? Maybe run the aeration recirc a few times to get the water cleaned up from fish waste?

so ok, now let’s say you’re done with the tourney and pulling the boat out to drive to the weigh-in. In order to shoot some water out of the well into your bag, do you, move 3 way valve to “empty”? Or not? Will you use the “pump out” dash switch?, while 3-way valve is still in “auto”?
when do you actually use the “pump out” switch?

my boat is an 06’ so I don’t have an adjustable timer rheostat, just the “auto” buttons. Are they smart enuff to be left onto “auto”?
now circling back to the hydro pipe with the hole that sucks air, I a, seeing the mod to make the tube addition. Is that still the preferred mod,or can one just stick a straw or something in there to raise it up a bit..

sorry for the long post, but I’ve read so many conflicting comments, it’s hard to be sure I’m understanding it all correctly, and yes, you long timers are probably pretty sick of the topic again, so my apologies. It just seems thru the years, the buttons have been slightly different …

anyways, thanks in advance..

[Lea]

Hopefully, Tx Champ will see this and respond. Meanwhile, never leave any switches on auto when on the trailer except maybe the Hydro. Hydro is strictly to make bubbles in the water in the livewell. It does not move water out of livewell.

I use pumpout when well is full and on trailer to pump some water into my weigh-in bag, and/or to empty well at any point.

Aerate fills well when on lake and recycles water in and out of livewell and lake, Do not use aerate when off the lake!

When on the lake, If well is full and auto is left on, it can overflow onto rear deck. Turn to manual or off when well has desired amt of water in it.. Auto is on a timer which cannot be adjusted.

I hope this helps some. It is really a very simple operation once you get the hang of it. We will help anytime!!!!

This info pertains to newer TN Champs, not the ones built in Mtn Home.

[Ed R]

As Lea said above.

Aerate, to fill live well. Auto/manual, manual to fill live well. If you do not have the hydro extension tube installed, don't fill live well above the hydro tube with the hole. If water is above the hole, hydro will not work. Auto if you want to introduce new/fresh water on a regular interval.

Hydro, introduces air into live well water. Auto is on a timer. Manual is on constant. Once I have fish in the live well I pretty much leave it on auto.

Pump out, just that. Use it as you need it. If pulling boat for weigh in and it works for you. My main use, if I have a lot of fish. At some point I turn the "pump out" on and the "aerate" on manual. Try to get the "stale" water out of the live well and fresh water in.

This is a very good idea on your part.
So a hypothetical situation, let’s say a hot summer day, with water temps way up there. Would it perhaps be wiser to not run the aeration switch after filling,and maybe ice the water down, and run the hydro function a lot? Maybe run the aeration recirc a few times to get the water cleaned up from fish waste?

Also, the Hydro air extension is worth the effort. I did a modified, just extended the tube above the overflow.

Hope this helps some.

[Tx Champ]

As I think I mentioned before, I'm not familiar with the 3-way valve system. I can tell you that the pump switch in the Auto position is a fixed timer that is 1 minute on and 3 minutes off. In the Manual position, it will run continously. Hopefully someone with your setup can chime in. In the meantime, below is what I copied from Flow-Rite's site regarding the System 3 valve. I hope it helps.

Flow-Rite’s System 3 Marine Control Valve is a high-quality, reliable and durable valve designed for use in marine applications. This valve features a compact, space-saving design that allows for easy installation in tight spaces, making it an ideal choice for boats and other watercraft.

Like the V2, the V3 is a reversible check valve that allows a single pump to not only perform the basic livewell functions necessary to keep your catch alive, but does it in a passive or automatic manner. It also has a third closed “RECIRC” position. By mounting the pump to the valve body, the operator only has to decide whether he wants his livewell functioning or empty. When the first fish is caught, place the valve in the “AUTO” position and turn on the pump. When the boat is off plane the pump will recirculate and aerate the livewell water and simultaneously blend in a portion of fresh lake water. Used livewell water is expelled out the overflow as fresh water enters to prevent any ammonia build up.

When the boat is put on plane, the valve’s check flapper will prevent water loss out the drain, and allow the pump to continue its recirculation duties. Any water lost out the overflow while running on plane is automatically made up when the boat is brought off plane at the next fishing location. All this is accomplished without any operator assistance.

For those times when outside water is not wanted or available, such as, adding ice, livewell additives, going through locks, traveling to out of water weigh-ins, dockside refueling or using our optional Pump-out / Venturi Aerator, place the valve in the “RECIRC” position.

To empty, simply turn off the pump and move the valve to the “EMPTY” position for gravity draining.