Electrical Dilemma 2008 Triton

[OBT]

Over the weekend, I took the boat (Garage kept) for its first wash and wax for the season. As I was getting the rig ready, and raising the outboard for towing, I noticed it struggled to lift the engine as if the battery must be low. ((I had taken the boat off the charger just a few days before and all had been in the green)). Weird but not a problem I thought, I'll throw it on the charger when I get back from the car wash which I did. After that I'd keep an eye on things just in case. Note: Battery seemed fine last season and is only a couple of year old.

A day later, I was working in the garage and kept hearing a kind of clicking noise coming from the boat. It would make the sound every 3-4 seconds almost like a dripping tap. After a short search I determined it was coming from the Bilge Pump. (Thank fully, I keep a spare on board) I took the pump out to confirm and sure enough, every 3 to 4 seconds, the impeller would spin for a second. I had no clue why it would do so. All switches were off.

I had also noticed that the Red Power light above the bilge pump toggle switch on the console was blinking red each time as well. That made me scratch my head but I figured it was some weird short in the pump and putting tht new one in would solve the problem.

BUT, after disconnecting the pumps power, the pump stopped its intermittent spin as expected, but I noticed that the red light above the toggle switch on the dash continued its On-off blinking. (?) (?) It should have stopped. Something is sending an intermittent pulse to that switch (And the pump when it was connected)

This behavior is new for me and before I start tearing everything apart to find the cause, which I do not want to do, does anyone have a clue what could be causing this? It sure is strange.

[bassdge]

Do you have an automatic float switch ? It could be bad

[Bob G.]

Is the dash main power switch off and main battery switch off when the red light for bilge pump is blinking?

[champ223]

What type of pump? Does it have a separate float? Or is the auto built into the pump? Separate float could be bad or have something stuck under it.

[jrh_67]

I would start by checking the automatic float switch and make sure something isn't setting it off...

[jimsch]

I would start by checking the automatic float switch and make sure something isn't setting it off...

This

[lpugh]

Make sure all water is out of the bilge, seen this many times float is at position that switch closes move water up the hose but not out the exit, level drops switch opens and repeat.
I do not like auto bilge on bass boats that are not berthed.

[Highcentered]

That boat is 16 years old so something in the wiring is probably goofy. Good suggestions so far but you need to start working through the problem in a structured manner. Start at the end (bilge pump) and work your way up to the switch at the console. If you suspect the wiring you can disconnect the existing wires for the bilge pump and run new up to the panel. You don't mention your boat having an auto bilge float but I'm also not familiar with what Triton did for standard equipment back then or if one was added after the fact. Something I've also seen a lot in older boats is toasted wiring. I've had a switch panel start smoking on me in an older boat I used to have and it was about the same age as you Triton at the time. Might be time to really dive in and inspect/repair/replace some stuff.

[OBT]

Do you have an automatic float switch ? It could be bad

I'm thinking this is it? (Note I've had the boat 16 years, have had a few times where there was plenty of water in the bilge and the pump never came on by it self, as it would if there was any kind of float/auto switch. That led me to believe that the object in the photo was either none operative or for something else that I've never figured out)

[lpugh]

Absolutely will be a float switch or water in the bilge

[McQuaig]

The "float" in that picture iooks like an electronic one, not a mechanical float....but it does the same job. It likely is the culprit and can be replaced with either type.

[OBT]

Update: Found the problem. That Float Switch or Sensor shown above was causing the blinking. Not any more! Thanks for all who helped.

[Champ 2001]

Make sure all water is out of the bilge, seen this many times float is at position that switch closes move water up the hose but not out the exit, level drops switch opens and repeat.
I do not like auto bilge on bass boats that are not berthed.

[wareagle24]

[FrancoCialone]

Update: Found the problem. That Float Switch or Sensor shown above was causing the blinking. Not any more! Thanks for all who helped.

Might be a good idea to label that sensor for the next owner or service tech. Glad you found the problem, how did you determine it was the problem ?

[OBT]

Might be a good idea to label that sensor for the next owner or service tech. Glad you found the problem, how did you determine it was the problem ?

Already done.

Simplest way possible. Started trouble shooting at the pump. It works fine. Next - Unplugged the Auto Bilge Float Switch/sensor and the Blinking light above the Pumps toggle switch stopped blinking. Success. Now we wait and see if the battery is still draining or not. If you have other ideas, please let me know. Thanks!