Guys…I have a small area of damage less than 1 inch in my gel on the rear part of the hull. I was going to sand and fill and do the “blow” the metal flake into the repair. Can I just use a very small amount of canned automotive clear coat to give the metal flake something to adhere to? Of course then sand and buff? I realize it’s not the absolute correct way to handle the repair, but it’s very small and will be very hard to see.
Rattle can clear not only won't build enough to bury the flake but will peel off. Not a great idea Bud. A high solids Euro Clear will stick if enough tooth is left after sanding. No 800 grit stuff I usually wet sand with 220, dry 320 grit to clear on gelcoat. I have never had a problem but most do because they treat the Gel like car paint. You are not painting over car paint. Much easier to bury with Gel mixed with Duratec High Gloss Additive. If it is that small bring it to a fiberglass shop is my suggestion, it can't cost that much. Wait for APS to chime in, post a picture so he can estimate what you would expect to pay. The bonus is it will be fixed permanently.
I appreciate the info. Ordered a can of clear gel coat spray.Originally Posted by rojoguio
Dean, I've never used the spray can clear but I'm curious how you're going to mix in the flake or is there no flake involved?
Paul he doesn't mix the flake, you spray down a wet coat of clear then apply the flake with a dry flake gun. That is what I have here. After applying the flake clean compressed, air regulated down, is used to blow the flakes flat preventing flake standing on edge making the flake easy to bury.
Oh.... Understood. Thanks rojoguio. I've never done it but can see how it works now.
a small single color flake repair runs less than 400 to do correct. Any gel that sprays through a rattle can has had the hell thinned out of it. Hard to imagine getting a thick enough build to bury flake.
I’m sure you’re correct. I’m just doing a temporary deal until I can get the boat in for a wet sand and buff. I usually get all the chips and bottom done around 10 years into ownership. I’ll do the same with this rig if I keep it that long.
Just keep in mind anything non-catalyzed you put on your boat will wrinkle and lift later including gelcoat.
Thoughts on this product?
https://dolphinitestore.myshopify.co...osol-can-clear
Another point I should have made earlier is any professional repair later you will have to grind out the contamination you add. I looked at the link but I see no tech sheets or info. Isocyanate is not used with polyester the resin in gelcoat, your boat, fiberglass, etc. Isocyanate catalyst is used with urethane, a totally different solvent base.
Apparently the catalyst is held in a tube in the can and is activated by the user.
Video explains a lot. I'm with APS that it still must be very thin to spray out of a can. The salesman doesn't say anything about a flake job just that they have a very library if color formulas.
Well…this canned gel coat company has taken my money, but hasn’t shipped the product 10 days later, won’t answer the phone or emails. Guess I’ll be ordering some gel MEKP and wax additive.
If you were closer I would give it to you. You won't need much. Be sure to bury your flake well, if it is colored and you sand the color off all flake is silver under the color treatment to the flake.
Thanks…I spoke too soon. Heard from dolphinite today. Think I’ll still order the other stuff. The wax additive in the last coat seems necessary for proper application. Thanks for all the advice.
give express composites a call. a qt of clear gel, mekp, and wax additive or duratec will be under 100 bucks. Look under my fb page APS Fiberglass. I'm about to put up a 3 color flake job I just sprayed Tuesday with videos of each step.
Use duratec no wax needed
Wow! Awesome work…That Allison was trashed!
Reply With Quote