Just got a set of 2018 optis 200hp. Serial is 2b362048. Just took the bottom cowlings off and on one of the motors there is a ton of salt down there. Looks like the water is coming out of the idle exhaust boot. I took it off and it looks like it's being eating away from corrosion. It's not longer a square looking port. Is there any fixing that?
I cant see if you broke/snapped the retainer bolts off, did you?
One came out and 1 snapped. I can always drill the snapped one out of this is salvageable
nooop trash it get anuthin
.................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................
Ok so I just went back and looked at the video of the motors running before I bought them. Now I'm kicking my self in the ass for not noticing the excessive bubbles coming out of the starboard motor at idle. It's so clear now that I watch the video. Would the exhaust plate be the cause of that or is it the exhaust tuner as well? Thansks
Yes.
The first problem is the plate is shot, when that is replaced the "tuner" can be inspected. Judging by the picture the plate and boot have been leaking for a long time.
+100Originally Posted by Savage
And I'm going to suggest you purchase a couple cans of a high-quality penetrating oil, and a REALLY good set of machinist drill-bits. That's going to be a mess coming apart.
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
Yupppp. I've been spraying it for the last 2 days. I'll keep doing it until this weekend when I try to separate it. I see a lot of people talk about using map gas to heat up the studs. Can I cause any more damage to anything by doing that?
No problem using heat coming apart.
+1... just be watchful of any sources of ignition (paper, plastic, fuel, oil, etc) in the vicinity, and keep an appropriate extinguisher handy.
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
thank you. I will report back and let you know how it goes
Kroil is by far the best to use
Ron Fears
Stroker/300XS
1E003823
PXL_20240301_175253247.jpg
Came apart. No heat just pb blaster
PXL_20240301_181110153.jpg
Exhaust plate to the mid section was the hardest but we got it. Now the fun part starts cleaning the old gasket off
I like the shopping cart
What ever it take hahah
Ok so I just finished cleaning all the old gasket off. What a nightmare. Started with brake cleaner and a plastic scraper. Didn't get very far like that so I had to switch to a very fine surfacing pad on a drill. I know that is very frowned upon but I just did not see another way. Checked all surface with a straight edge after and everything looks perfect. I took all the studs out to be able to do this. I'm looking through my service manual and don't see any torque specs for reinstalling the studs into the power head. Does anyone know what they are? Or do I just install snug and only worry about the power head nuts torque specs? thanks
Install snug, then torque the nuts.
Thank you
Don't forget to apply red liquid loctite to the studs before installing.
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
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