1300 is pretty light you may wanna get a prop witha lil less bow lift built in it than a FURY that boat is gonna be smokin compared to that 2.5 and prob a handful at top speed , youre prob gonna be surprised ,,,,,, be careful id be surprised if it didnt go well up in the 80s set up right light load
.................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................
No sir- I've got a number of comparisons, but not with that earlier gearcase involved (the closest one in recent production is from a different casting).
You're on the right track by staying on the lower end. I would, however, totally ignore the XRI and work from the setup instructions (otherwise, start in the 3rd/center hole).
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
Joe since you made the claim, il piggy back your comment. I didnt want to bring up my thoughts and start a speed war back n forth side track the convoOriginally Posted by JOE54
my current prop i run is the powertech TR04 21 pitch. I cant explain how i gooood this prop is, i can lean into a turn and the boat n prop just hookks. Excellent mid range , hole shot etc. all around supreme
So i was contemplating trying a 25 to start.
joe, that fury prop in the pic is not mine. I actually got the deposit down on a motor at fast bass. Tim’s been super helpful.
Right now just preparing for this motor swap gathering intel
i will share alittle teaser with you since you spoke about 80’s+. So i acquired this boat from an old man who did the restore. Fast forward, bought it from Edens Marine down in florida
He ran this boat with a 2018 225 pro xs gen 2 and saw 78 with a 27 trophy.
the boat underwent a full restore, along with coolers being glassed over taken out. Dash layout and fully cleaned and leaned out. So thats where i claim 1300. 20 gallon tank, along with dual blue tops in back /1 on either side. Weight distribution is solid
also the back seat i constructed it out of an aluminum plate. 3/16 thick. Bench pressed the angle, installed threaded pem inserts for the hinges. Fully dressed with upholstry the full bench seat weighs maybe 20lbs. From the start of my seat project, from 3/4” ply to this aluminum, the weight savings is unreal
i know , you may be asking, then what is my point of all this data and research/questions, well i want to understand the effects of all variables. Im not in this just to float with a 250. I want the characteristics of the boat to remain the same, or in my eyes speed is not worth it if i cant even drive it. Quiet frankly if the XRI was better/cleaner on fuel i would totally happy with the XRI
I am only happy with results when i understand why they happened / good or bad
so thats the plan
Transom is solid. Although i thought about beefing it up with a bigger fish plate , but the splash well wud need to be cut open. Is there any “precautionary” things to do before an issue?
20240229 124756554794.png
Last edited by Check85; 02-29-2024 at 06:33 PM.
don
i totally follow you
i dont physically have the Gen 2 in front of me, if you pass one , maybe grab a quick measurement. Center to cavitation plate. Pretty please
the xri i can measure, boats stored at the moment and il get that measurement this weeknd
appreciate all the help
I've sent you a PM.
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
PM received
Email sent
Look forward to hearing your thoughts
im restoring a rotten CHAMPION will be glassing in a 3/16 aluminum plate like ALLISON has on some hulls may not work for your design transom
.................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................
I am not looking to disrupt the transom and install a plate.
im looking to if anything add some additional “safety” measures
Was thibkn about making a one peice solid plate same width, sat 2-3” , 3/8 thick and bend it to tie into the stringers as pic shows
.................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................
Joe. My idea to incorporate the bottom bolt inside plate to the stringers makes sense to you?
unfortunately my top engine bolts are outside the splash well. Not much i can do there unless i cut into the splash well. Not looking to do that.
This is really just a “might as well” cant hurt scenerio. For my repower 250xs
i am aware majority of the torque is in the upper bolts but what can i do.
in the pic
red = new bracket
blue= boat
yellow = bolts
Joe. Im pretty sure the knee braces were standard. Im not 100%.my rig has been restored, and the orignal 30 gallon tank is now a 20 gallon. So my current layout could be the same or different.
but i do have knees on either side of the tank as seen above that are attached to inside face of transom
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