Dedicated electronics battery necessary?

[520runner]

I have a dedicated wiring harness in my boat. It consists of 10 ga to a buss at console then 3 sets of 10 ga going to two 12 in units and LS blackbox up front.
I attach the power to my main breaker at the rear.

Would it be better/clearer if I installed a separate cutoff switch and a dedicated battery just for my units and black box?

I believe that I have clear images. Just curious as to other peoples experiences with trying to get the best, clearest images.

Thanks,

AK

[SLYDoggie]

Necessary, no. Beneficial, maybe. It depends on what else you have operating off the electronics battery which might add RFI.

[Bjxds]

I have 4 graphs and M 360 running from a fuse block connected to a master cutoff, main power starting battery. I believe it is 8G to the block and 10G from block to electronics on bow. I used factory power from graphs on console to fuse block ( 3 feet).

I installed 1 year ago, NO Issues so far.

If I had to do it all over again I would like to have a separate battery/fuse block/cutoff switch for electronics only.

[Toby]

What kind of voltage do you get to the bow units. Is there much of a voltage drop? The whole seperate battery theory is to get "clean" power to your electronics. This basically means adequate voltage with no interference. If voltage is an issue, might be a wiring size problem or battery capacity problem. If it is an interference problem a seperate battery could solve this. There are alot of high AH cranking lithium batteries now that will supply more power than you could ever use. No need for a seperate battery

[Woody b]

It's my belief that the people who get better performance with a separate electronics battery are repairing bad wiring when they install the separate battery. I have a Ionic 125 amp hour for cranking, and electronics. Just for kicks, and because I had room, and a group 27 cranking battery laying around I installed it for cranking, and everything except my graphs. I didn't have a problem to start with, and it made zero difference.

[Les Young]

I have a dedicated lithium battery for my livescope but i done it strictly so i shouldn't have much of a chance of having interference. I have a helix 9 at console for mapping, marking waypoints, down & side scan & a helix 7 at the bow strictly for map, depth & marking & viewing waypoints. From the starting battery to the bow I used some old unused paver electronics wire from work that had each individual wire insulated & then had another level of insulation around it. I soldered & heat shrinked all connections & have never had an ounce of interference & have used it on a bunch of different units over the years. I've been using the same harness for around 15 years too.