2014 SHO 250 water in oil

[fishhawk5]

6CBL1007844 Trying to show what I've learned myself. This is the second one I've worked on personally. The first I did had water in the oil as well. The problem on the first was leaking internal anode seals between the camshafts. I had read about heads cracking so I pulled both heads and took them to be pressure tested. The shop I took them to had no sealing plate or rubber seal that would cover the complete mating surface with the cast-in exhaust manifold. I happen to have a Bridgeport in my shop, so I made a plate and found a perfect piece of rubber for the seal at Graingers. When they tested them they pointed out to me where it was leaking around the bolt-in anodes. I replaced all the seals and reassembled. It has been fine the last 2 years. This current one when pressure testing has a long crack running in the area between the camshaft area anodes on the starboard head. I haven't went through many past posts to see other issues but I have seen references to dealers only replacing powerheads when there is water in the oil. I thought I would bring up what I found working on the 2 I've seen. I am not really an outboard mechanic but have been into many. My background is in in import cars as a shop foreman in an independent shop for 45+ years (mostly retired to my hobby shop now) so this engine is easy for me to understand. Either of these issues might be diagnosed by putting it on a strong flowing water hose (engine off) with the valve covers removed. I currently need a starboard head to repair this one if anyone has suggestions over what I've found on Ebay and the general internet

[ssmithboats]

some dealerships just order a long block an change out it is much more profitable than trying to find a crack in heads or block you can bet if they took it in trade they would go thru the heads first.

[fishhawk5]

To replace a long block without removing the valve covers and putting water pressure to it first seems nearly criminal on Yamahas behalf. After what I learned on the first engine with leaking anode seals, the repair could be done for only a few hundred dollars, not $15k+. I know the dealers are told by the factory this is the route they are to take. The customer on the first engine was told $15,500 to replace his with a wait of 5 months+ to even get a "longblock".

[CJ1]

To be honest not alot of dealerships have techs that I would trust repairing engine internals. Cj

[Buzz Bait]

Hey Fishhawk5, I own 6CBL1007736 and it was bulletproof for 772-hours. I changed oil and filter 1/18/24 and 3rd time out encountered first ever oil plume on mid-day restart. Couple outings later at WOT (6000 rpm's) for ~ 1-minute motor went into protect mode; shut down, restarted and ran at 5000 rpm max rest of day--no issues. Kept rpm's at less than or equal to 5000 rpm's two days later, except for ~ 2-minute period at about 5400-5500 and again a protect mode action. Troubleshooting led me to 2-Low Oil events on YDIS which I believe coincided with noted protect mode events. No actual Codes showed up on YDIS however and no alarm sounded on either protect mode event. Oil had dipped below lower indicator on dip stick following first event (despite being at mid-point only 3-4 hours earlier); 1.5 quarts brought it back to mid-point and oil was still clean and at mid-point after second event.

Troubleshooting efforts: Compression and Leak Down both appear good. Spark plugs all had an unusual sandy color on electrodes, but uniform on all cylinders. Changed OCV filter/gaskets, but they were not clogged at all. Changed filters in SVT for first time ever, stained but not clogged. Both hoses to breather block were clear. some oil in intake manifold, but not excessive. Idled on garden hose for 20-plus minutes to warm up prior to Leak Down test at (786 hours) and later noticed what appeared to be water in the oil (appearance typically is blackish and now had a "mud" colored appearance and noticed a tan-colored foam under oil fill cap), with oil level up an 8th to perhaps 1/4 inch above mid-point. By the way, I checked the oil multiple times during the 6-8 or so outings after first encountering the oil plume (and except for the first check when it was ~1.5 quarts low following the first protect mode event) it was always at mid-point and color/appearance was normal. We did have a couple overnight freeze's (mid-20's) during this time-frame, but nothing out of the norm for Jan/Feb in NC. I prefer not to take it to dealer only to have them recheck everything I have already checked and tell me they couldn't find anything. I have always run motor in fresh water and I have not checked or replaced internal anodes. I had thermostats replaced at 752 hours when the timing belt was replaced due to some buggering at top of timing belt with unknown cause. Any suggestions?

[bgibson]

Hey Fishhawk5, I own 6CBL1007736 and it was bulletproof for 772-hours. I changed oil and filter 1/18/24 and 3rd time out encountered first ever oil plume on mid-day restart. Couple outings later at WOT (6000 rpm's) for ~ 1-minute motor went into protect mode; shut down, restarted and ran at 5000 rpm max rest of day--no issues. Kept rpm's at less than or equal to 5000 rpm's two days later, except for ~ 2-minute period at about 5400-5500 and again a protect mode action. Troubleshooting led me to 2-Low Oil events on YDIS which I believe coincided with noted protect mode events. No actual Codes showed up on YDIS however and no alarm sounded on either protect mode event. Oil had dipped below lower indicator on dip stick following first event (despite being at mid-point only 3-4 hours earlier); 1.5 quarts brought it back to mid-point and oil was still clean and at mid-point after second event.

Troubleshooting efforts: Compression and Leak Down both appear good. Spark plugs all had an unusual sandy color on electrodes, but uniform on all cylinders. Changed OCV filter/gaskets, but they were not clogged at all. Changed filters in SVT for first time ever, stained but not clogged. Both hoses to breather block were clear. some oil in intake manifold, but not excessive. Idled on garden hose for 20-plus minutes to warm up prior to Leak Down test at (786 hours) and later noticed what appeared to be water in the oil (appearance typically is blackish and now had a "mud" colored appearance and noticed a tan-colored foam under oil fill cap), with oil level up an 8th to perhaps 1/4 inch above mid-point. By the way, I checked the oil multiple times during the 6-8 or so outings after first encountering the oil plume (and except for the first check when it was ~1.5 quarts low following the first protect mode event) it was always at mid-point and color/appearance was normal. We did have a couple overnight freeze's (mid-20's) during this time-frame, but nothing out of the norm for Jan/Feb in NC. I prefer not to take it to dealer only to have them recheck everything I have already checked and tell me they couldn't find anything. I have always run motor in fresh water and I have not checked or replaced internal anodes. I had thermostats replaced at 752 hours when the timing belt was replaced due to some buggering at top of timing belt with unknown cause. Any suggestions?

I will say that your observation "tan-colored foam under oil fill cap" is not unusual. With temp swings that is normal. Both 250 SHO's I have had will show that same thing during big temperature changes.

[rid 05 198]

So 6-8 outings it was good but the 20 minutes on the hose it didn't like? You find anything?