For the guys that build and sell rods what do you charge was thinking of ordering all the parts and have someone build
For the guys that build and sell rods what do you charge was thinking of ordering all the parts and have someone build
Everyone does it a little differently...for the most part I'm at $10/guide, $10 for "shop supplies" like epoxy, popsicle sticks, cups etc. and another $15-25 for the handle/seat depending on what it is...cork rings glued in place and hand shaped are more work than a premade grip and butt etc...that's just for the build, parts are obviously extra...I'm on the cheaper end of things but I don't do any threadwork other than one color wraps...Your best bet is to find someone local so you don't have to pay for shipping (which generally sucks).
I charge $15 a guide for guide repair because I've usually got to strip the guide which can be a pain on a lot of rods.
I would do it i just hate trying to mix and apply flex coat on guides
If that’s the limiting factor, use PermaGloss.Originally Posted by Nowater2shallow
Better than epoxy finishes in my opinion.
that's why God invented syringes and D2...don't care for Flex Coat myself. PermaGloss is good but I like just doing 2 coats, PermaGloss is at least 3 or 4 if not more.
After trying several epoxy rod finishes and finding something I didn’t like about them, I’ve settled with Gen 4. For me, it’s easy to work with. They have a low and a high build. It releases bubbles and self levels beautifully with a quick pass of my heat gun while on the drying rack, haven’t had any trouble with mixing or clarity after it dries. I did have some fisheye issues on some custom stickers but found wiping them with IPA before application of the Gen 4 solved that issue. I use two coats and if I have some high spots from thread ends, I’ll trim that with a razor blade after second coat and cover with a third coat. Been using the low build though but just got some high build in I’m going to try on my next rod. I’m pretty particular about what the thread finish looks like. For me a bad finish just ruins all that hard work in a custom built rod and I don’t want to fight with the rod finish to get it right.
2013 BassCat Cougar
Serial # 1B962763
Just ordered some gen 4 high build having seen what a friend does with it. He is without a doubt the best I’ve ever seen.
Respectfully,
Captain Rab
V1CO 1:27 But God has chosen the foolish things of the
world to put to shame the wise; and God has
chosen the weak things of the world to put to
shame the things which are mighty
I’ll have to try Gen 4 when I run out of threadmaster. I’ve used flex coat and the finish came out like crap. It’s the only brand I’ve used that I didn’t have good results with.
back to the OP, I usually am right around what willworks4fish has said. $10 per guide, $15 per reel seat. A 7’ bass rod will end up being like $120. For family I usually have them buy the materials and toss me $30 or so
1995 Ranger 481v
1995 Johnson Fast Strike 175hp
$100-130 for assembly depending on guide count handle type etc
I am looking on lure parts and I do not see any recommended from above do they not carry it. Is there a good option from lure parts?
Check out mudhole, getbit, or voodoo rods for rod building supplies. I prefer to order through GetBit, great folks and customer service over there
1995 Ranger 481v
1995 Johnson Fast Strike 175hp
voodoo rods carries all the supplies your looking for
would this work i am repairing 2 guides
https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Thre...One?quantity=1
Don't, that stuff is garbage. Get a 2 part or permagloss if you really have something against mixing.
Only if you want an end result like epoxy do you need all those many coats of Permagloss, two or three thin coats after the thread is well saturated is as tough as any epoxy finish, lighter and more flexible to boot and will never ever yellow. While you are at it just try to pull a guide out from under a permagloss wrap, a worlds better adhesive than epoxy finish. Threadless Permaglos guide wrap.threadless2.jpg
Last edited by Spoonplugger1; 01-04-2024 at 11:46 AM.
How many rods can you complete with a 4oz bottle of permagloss? As is 7'-3" rods with 9-10 guides? Is it applied with a brush similar to expoxy?
2018 LEGEND 211R | 250 MERC PROXS
I've switched to Gen4 as well. First coat with low build, second coat high build, and typically don't require a third coat. I get great results.
2018 LEGEND 211R | 250 MERC PROXS
Dozens. Keep the bottle stored upside down after opening.
There are tricks to Permagloss application, but nothing difficult.
Pour a little out on a dished-out piece of aluminum foil, do not dip the brush into the bottle.
Use a flat brush like these:
https://www.amazon.com/anezus-Paint-...4424984&sr=8-5
Apply by turning the rod once and only once with a semi-loaded brush held against the wraps. I'll often do a 180 with the rod, then lift the brush and do a 180 in the opposite direction. Lift the brush, move over one brush width, and repeat until the wraps are covered. Once applied, do not "work" the finish, move on to the next guide no matter what it looks like.
Turn the rod for 5-10 minutes, you can apply successive coats a half-hour to 45 minutes after the previous. No need to let it set for hours like epoxy. 4-5 coats are usually sufficient.
You can complete the finish on a rod in basically one sitting if you wish, although you can put successive coats on a day later if you wish.
Although it will be dry to the touch soon after, allow about 24 hours after the final coat before using the rod, possibly less if it is humid and warm.
Awesome! Great feedback, greatly appreciated.
Seems great for guides... when covering a large area of the rod, say like over a label that's 4 inches long with surrounding trip wraps, would then switch to epoxy? Or stick with permagloss and does the application method change? I've seen great instruction on how to apply permagloss to a raw blank.
We share a great name by the way lol
2018 LEGEND 211R | 250 MERC PROXS
Over labels and decorative wraps, I always use epoxy, but I will use much the same application technique.
Unlike Permagloss, Epoxy sometimes requires attention after application. A little heat, or to pop a bubble with a pin/bodkin. Still, I’ve found it best to apply, and then keep your brush off of the rod.
Permagloss over labels can be problematic because the solvents in it can dissolve the adhesive, and even lift the ink on the label.
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