Blisters under Carpet Bunks

[JohnM64]

2000 Triton Tr 20 - Jacked boat up off trailer for trailer inspection, found gel blistered only and exactly where bunk carpet made contact.

Bunks were removed, they were wet and stayed that way, and were loaded with sand. No more carpet, going with gatorbak.

Some blisters had broke open, but glass underneath is sound without delamination.

I've ground out one patch with a DA sander and 80 grit. Bottom is black gel, plan to go back with a layer of gray marine-tex and call it good.

Any opinions or ideas welcome - thanks.

[brodieb]

You may want to get it to a shop with a moisture meter. I was going down the same route as you but some of mine were through the glass. It spent 3 weeks getting the foam dried out after they opened up both sides

[rojoguio]

I have been waiting for you to post pictures. Post up what you're working on, most of us know, descriptions written by a untrained eye are not something to give advice by.

[rojoguio]

Gelcoat is the waterproofing, fiberglass is very porous.

[JohnM64]

I have been waiting for you to post pictures. Post up what you're working on, most of us know, descriptions written by a untrained eye are not something to give advice by.

Understood and thanks. I will post photos this afternoon/weekend.

The gel blistering at bunk contact is something I hadn't even contemplated, and now I'm thinking almost every boat with carpet bunks is or will be affected.

I thought of gel coat as being an impervious barrier but have learned its got some porosity, especially when treated to a steady supply of pressurized moisture.

[Scott S.]

Gel coat is a barrier for the glass, put gel coat back on the boat. Get a quart of black gel and a quart of duratech addative, it turns thick gel to an air dry paint. Scuff it spray it, let dry for a day or two befor putting it back on the trailer. Or use some gator grip and roll that on the bottom to protect the gel, shit hardens like a rock, just takes time to apply due to seval thin coats that need to dry before each coat.

[JohnM64]

20230925_185701.jpg20230925_185625.jpg20230925_185723.jpg


Bottom photos where bunks made contact. The lower 2 bunks appear to have the most damage.

Its been off the bunks for about 6 weeks.

[rojoguio]

John, I hate to be the first to tell you this but if you like the boat bring it to a professional. All that gelcoat must be removed and a tooth applied to the substrate then new gelcoat with comparable millage applied. Most boats are worth repairing, this will not be as bad as you think to have it done.

[JohnM64]

John, I hate to be the first to tell you this but if you like the boat bring it to a professional. All that gelcoat must be removed and a tooth applied to the substrate then new gelcoat with comparable millage applied. Most boats are worth repairing, this will not be as bad as you think to have it done.

Thanks Rojo. I don't disagree a shop would be the best possible permanent remedy.

The dilemma I have is the $4500 quote (on a 23 year old boat) by the only glass shop in Jax that would respond.

[rojoguio]

Very Respectfully speaking, I would not touch it for $4500. That is a great price if they do it right. Price a replacement boat without any issues. So if I can provide some perspective, I would remove the engine, all batteries, all fuel, windshields, hatches, seats, electronics, and any other protrusion not mentioned here. Then I would rotate the boat in the air resting it upside down on a bed of old tires. All of the gelcoat would be ground out including the square feet of bad gelcoat you can't see till the grinder is applied. There will be a lot more grinding than you can imagine. The build up of fairing compound and gelcoat would be applied, cut, and polished before returning your boat upright. Then you must put it back together and provide a warranty to you in the end. Materials are out of site, boat prices will never come down as long as oil is close to $100/bbl. Add to that the EPA constantly placing obstacles in the way of raw materials manufacturers raising the production costs. If you are confident you will get a quality job $4500 is a great price. Kind Regards,

[rojoguio]

I forgot to post for you a 2003 Triton in my shop now for some repairs. New 300HP (90 days old), I recently completely reworked the canvas, that is the second T-Top the first one cracked almost completely off (the canvas was what held it on). It has been polished so many times I will be shooting new gelcoat (the green area) next summer, complete new Garmin / Fusion system. When you own a Triton almost all the issues can be repaired, the hulls are damn near Bullet Proof. The original F250 didn't fail we swapped it to another boat they own to make room for the 300.

2003 Triton 1.jpg2003 Triton 2.jpg

[APS]

if you're comfortable running an air file and grinder you could do the repairs. I do all my work off a creeper with the boat on stands. You'll probably need to grind out about 2 inches further than the blistering all the way down to glass. Then use vinylester for your filler which will prevent further problems. It's a lot of labor and if you're not in good shape I probably wouldn't try it. You could always take it to toledo fiberglass and get a gorilla hull put on it for less than your estimate. 4500 not a bad price if they do good work.

[JohnM64]

if you're comfortable running an air file and grinder you could do the repairs. I do all my work off a creeper with the boat on stands. You'll probably need to grind out about 2 inches further than the blistering all the way down to glass. Then use vinylester for your filler which will prevent further problems. It's a lot of labor and if you're not in good shape I probably wouldn't try it. You could always take it to toledo fiberglass and get a gorilla hull put on it for less than your estimate. 4500 not a bad price if they do good work.

Thanks Rojo and APS, the feedback is appreciated. The quote was the whole bottom from a good shop.

While it's clearly understood and not debatable why a shop won't do partial repairs, I can't wrap my head around the expense knowing a new gelcoat bottom would be scuffed and scratched to heck in a year, probably sooner. Its shallow here. There are existing scratches all over the bottom, some pretty good, but none appear thru gel.

I'm planning to repair just the 3 affected bunk areas (total area < 12 square feet) as the port side upper bunk contact was poor = no blisters. Boat is up on blocks indoors. Not a youngster, but labor part is not any challenge. The expertise is, and that's why I try to reach out to folks like you.

[JohnM64]

[QUOTE=rojoguio;13181121]I forgot to post for you a 2003 Triton in my shop now for some repairs. New 300HP (90 days old), I recently completely reworked the canvas, that is the second T-Top the first one cracked almost completely off (the canvas was what held it on). It has been polished so many times I will be shooting new gelcoat (the green area) next summer, complete new Garmin / Fusion system. When you own a Triton almost all the issues can be repaired, the hulls are damn near Bullet Proof. The original F250 didn't fail we swapped it to another boat they own to make room for the 300.

Thanks rojo. This is my 3rd Triton, 1st was a new '98. I like the old Tr hulls, really good boats in my opinion, all composite, never a problem.

On this boat, the intent of repair is to prevent further damage (while getting a couple more years out of it). That's pretty much it, aesthetics are 2ndary. If I hadn't got it up off trailer and looked it may have remained unknown.

After that couple more years, it will be either a full restore or waste some 401k on a last new one.