Active Target Mount

[Chris225]

What's the best Active Target transducer mount for trolling motors? I'd like to switch from forward to scout mode quickly.

[Skeeter Man]

Fish Obsessed

[Chris225]

Thanks for the recommendation. I see there is one with a spacer block. Any reason why I would need the spacer on a 52" Ultrex? I would prefer to keep the transducer close to the shaft because I fish in a lot of grass and timber.

[Skeeter Man]

Call and discuss it with him. He’s really nice and helpful. I used the spacer with longer screws on mine. I don’t remember for sure but I think it was because it extends it out better for down view. I don’t think the 1’ spacer is going to make any difference on your concerns but you can ask him.

[Urbanhick]

He told me to get the spacer block. Less chance of interference from lower unit. I run mine 8" up from lower unit on a Motorguide tour pro.

[Chris225]

Is there a way to tighten the connection at the transducer? I used the bolt and washers they supplied and the transducer is way to loose with the bolt bottomed out. I spent more time re setting the transducer on a grass lake than fishing.

[Urbanhick]

Is there a way to tighten the connection at the transducer? I used the bolt and washers they supplied and the transducer is way to loose with the bolt bottomed out. I spent more time re setting the transducer on a grass lake than fishing.

Not a lot of tension on that but there is an audible click on mine when switching modes. I can see it getting knocked out of position while fishing in heavy grass. Maybe a shorter bolt or another washer best to contact FO. There should be 3 spring washers and a flat washer along with the shoulder screw.

[78Staff]

Is there a way to tighten the connection at the transducer? I used the bolt and washers they supplied and the transducer is way to loose with the bolt bottomed out. I spent more time re setting the transducer on a grass lake than fishing.

I had this issue with the FO as well... you can only get it so tight apparently. In normal use it's fine, but running through stuff can move it. And the screw would back off farily easily, and you can't really use loctite as it will eat up the plastic. I've since switched to the all metal Rytek mount, which imo is a superior mount setup for the most part, but it does have some issues as well - not to mention being about twice the cost.

The Rytek is part of a larger mounting ecosystem, so have many options available. It's also all metal, and doesn't move unless you want it to. However, my issue is with the tolerances between the mount and the carrier - the through hole for the pin has some tolerance spacing which allows the transducer to move around to much imo. I've created a jam/wedge of sorts by using a zip tie along with putting a bit of arc into the pin, somewhat similar to using a zip tie on a wallowed out screw hole. A better fix would be to drill out the mount holes in the arm to better match the slug hole diameter, but I just haven't bothered with it yet. But it's really something I don't think we should have to do considering the cost of the setup. I've talked to Ryan about it, and some tolerance is required of course to facilitate the quick release aspect of it, but it's too much imo. Better matching up the holes and using a bolt instead of a clevis pin would be a more stable solution, assuming one doesn't want to utilize the quick release feature, that is. Despite this, I do think it's a great mount, and the infinite adjustability is a plus you don't get with other mounts.

https://rytekmarine.com/collections/...trolling-motor

[2500]

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MARQCAD
uses factory mount stem but stops the cracked plastic mount. can go to scout as factory does

[2500]

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[RyTek Marine]

Thanks James- I am in the midst of a better solution right now for the guys using the 3600 Series Mounts in conjunction with the trolling motor connecting rod. Like I possibly mentioned if we have spoken on the phone, the stainless steel clevis pins are forged and their diameter tolerance is all over the map unfortunately just like other clevis pins....As I don't make these in house that aspect is out of my control. Most people that call me inquiring about my mounts or originally purchasing the mounts love the ability to make it quickly removable and the ones I talk to that have run them now for almost two years say that novelty quickly faded and they never remove it anyway! (I would say only 10% of the people purchasing my 3600 series mounts are removing them still after the 1 year mark!). What I am more than likely going to do is start this upcoming year, supplying them with a Stainless Steel shoulder bolt which has very tight tolerances like the mounts. This will firmly seat the stub of the mount into the connecting rod. For those that still want it quickly removable they will be able to purchase the clevis pins separately, and will have to fine tune the fit on their own via the instructions on a video I have up on YouTube on how to do it. If you have not seen the video yet or talked to me prior to this past May, have a look...it allows the clevis pin to slide into the hole nicely and then by rotating the pin, it pulls the mount/connecting rod tightly together and locks it into place.

In all honesty, I wish I had supplied the mounts originally with a shoulder bolt and offered a the pin as an extra, but having an immense amount of guys from the original 100 Pre-Purchase asking for the ability to quickly remove it at the end of the day, it just didn't make sense to not supply them via the clevis pin.

Thanks...Ryan

[78Staff]

Thanks James- I am in the midst of a better solution right now for the guys using the 3600 Series Mounts in conjunction with the trolling motor connecting rod. Like I possibly mentioned if we have spoken on the phone, the stainless steel clevis pins are forged and their diameter tolerance is all over the map unfortunately just like other clevis pins....As I don't make these in house that aspect is out of my control. Most people that call me inquiring about my mounts or originally purchasing the mounts love the ability to make it quickly removable and the ones I talk to that have run them now for almost two years say that novelty quickly faded and they never remove it anyway! (I would say only 10% of the people purchasing my 3600 series mounts are removing them still after the 1 year mark!). What I am more than likely going to do is start this upcoming year, supplying them with a Stainless Steel shoulder bolt which has very tight tolerances like the mounts. This will firmly seat the stub of the mount into the connecting rod. For those that still want it quickly removable they will be able to purchase the clevis pins separately, and will have to fine tune the fit on their own via the instructions on a video I have up on YouTube on how to do it. If you have not seen the video yet or talked to me prior to this past May, have a look...it allows the clevis pin to slide into the hole nicely and then by rotating the pin, it pulls the mount/connecting rod tightly together and locks it into place.

In all honesty, I wish I had supplied the mounts originally with a shoulder bolt and offered a the pin as an extra, but having an immense amount of guys from the original 100 Pre-Purchase asking for the ability to quickly remove it at the end of the day, it just didn't make sense to not supply them via the clevis pin.

Thanks...Ryan

Hi Ryan,
yep, we've talked... I never remove mine, so will be looking at bolting it most likely. Still technically removable for service and what not, just not QR :).

I like the bolt idea which we did discuss - in my case the aluminum "slug" through hole is larger than the holes in the connecting rod - so even if I used a 1/4" bolt through it, there would still be a bit of play/wobble due to the larger hole running through the slug. Probably less than with the clevis setup, though. I may run by HD and pick up a few bolts to try out.

Outside of that I guess I could mic both holes and figure out best way to get them closer in size, ie drilling out the holes a bit on the connection arm to match up with the slug hole diameter. That would be the most solid fix I believe... if I can trust my old janky HF drill press to drill a square hole, that is lol.

[rudapa]

So when/if I go the AT2 route the Rytek is the way to go? I might do the dual set up. I have the FO with my AT1. I was tired of losing the factory gimbal knobs in the lake.

[78Staff]

So when/if I go the AT2 route the Rytek is the way to go? I might do the dual set up. I have the FO with my AT1. I was tired of losing the factory gimbal knobs in the lake.

Dual as in the Dual Scout? It's an interesting concept for sure, but I think the Lowrance Dual Scout bracket locks you into that mode, ie they don't adjust to be able to use in Forward/Down like the normal Lowrance Bracket? Marc Marcantonio is running the dual scout bracket, he can say for sure though...

or Dual as Two transducers, one forward/down and one Scout? If so, I would recommend the smaller oem mounts that go on the Trolling Motor head with the hose clamp setup to start. You get 0* Forward and Down, and your choice of Shallow or Standard Scout Mounts. Try that first, and if you feel you need the additional adjustability then you can move to one of the aftermarket mounts.

But, if you are going to run a transducer on the shaft with the oem mount, then I would definitely recommend upgrading to the Ryteck mount instead.

[rudapa]

So I need to look into this a little more. I was thinking one could switch from forward/scout to scout/scout. Not so?

[78Staff]

So I need to look into this a little more. I was thinking one could switch from forward/scout to scout/scout. Not so?

I didn't think so, but I could be wrong. Mark will know for sure though.

EDIT - I looked at a few websites, all describe it as "non-adjustable". Kinda makes it a one trick pony. But great if you wanting a "Live" 360-like view I guess.

Looking at the bracket, it does appear to be a fixed mount...

[lpugh]

Fish Obsessed

Secon that

[captainrab]

Definitely FISH obsessed! Great product and great service

[Marc Marcantonio]

There are a lot of considerations and much depends on the type of fishing you do and what you are trying to achieve. Personally I am running both my AT2 transducers with factory mounts on my Ghost motor. The top transducer is in Scout mode, and the bottom transducer is in Forward Mode. I intend to continue to run this setup at least through the next spawning season. I am waiting for the new Revolution pole mount to come out since it fits over the shaft of your trolling motor, giving you independent operation of your AT transducers regardless of where your trolling motor is aimed; and it doesn't require the mess and fuss of a separate pole.

All winter I will be fishing 45-60 feet deep and my current setup works great for all depths. If I fished shallow flats a lot I would move the Scout transducer to the top of the Trolling Motor with the stock trolling motor zero-degree mount.

You can see my setup on the video embedded in this article I wrote about using Dual AT2's:

[,B]Dual Forward Facing Sonar - Double Your Pleasure Double Your Fun:[/B]
https://storage.westernbass.com/mag_...e48/index.html

[rudapa]

I would like the scout/forward combo most of the year and in the late fall and early spring prefer the scout/scout. It would be nice to switch back and forth but I do see the difficulty in making that happen now that I look at the pictures.