Thread: Bleeding brakes

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  1. Member 1BADAIR's Avatar
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    #21
    Furthest is always first in the auto world. A lot of trailers only have a bleeder on the last caliper in-line
    2011 Ranger z521/2023 250ProXS

  2. Scraps
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    #22
    Quote Originally Posted by mactlman View Post
    autos start at the farthest away and move forward and they are pushing fluid rearward also??
    I never understood either way, could rationalize either way working......don't worry either, I are uh engineer.
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    #23
    Quote Originally Posted by krindgen View Post
    I never understood either way, could rationalize either way working......don't worry either, I are uh engineer.
    same if all the air is out it really doesn't matter
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    #24
    I have a ranger trailer that only has one bleeder valve at the last caliper. They are all connected in a series. What is the best procedure for bleeding a system like this. I just replaced an actuator and bled my brakes, but it takes several pumps of the actuator to lock up my tires. I don't believe this is right and air may still be in lines/calipers. Please help.

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    #25
    Bleed master first by using a screwdriver in the slot and cap removed, use short 1/2 inch strokes and watch out for liquid shooting straight up. once you have liquid shooting straight up, then the master is bled. Now bleed the lines and make sure reservoir doesn't fall below half way.

  6. Member bhjr.'s Avatar
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    #26
    Quote Originally Posted by varbs521 View Post
    I have a ranger trailer that only has one bleeder valve at the last caliper. They are all connected in a series. What is the best procedure for bleeding a system like this. I just replaced an actuator and bled my brakes, but it takes several pumps of the actuator to lock up my tires. I don't believe this is right and air may still be in lines/calipers. Please help.
    Hydraulic surge brake actuators are crappy at best. I wish the manufacturers would put a better cap on the master cylinder so the calipers could be power bled to get all of the air out. You have only one way to do this which was expressed above. You’ll make numerous trips up to the reservoir to make sure it’s still full after manually pushing in the tongue or using a vacuum bleeder at that only bleed point. If you run out of fluid in the master cylinder, you get to start all over! Sucks!

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    #27
    Quote Originally Posted by 1BADAIR View Post


    I have the same unit, works fantastic for my motorcycles and truck with the other adapters they sell. I actually bought mine specific for use on bikes and added the other stuff later.

    The only problem is my trailer has the tie down brand actuator and the trailer kit did not fit it, the rubber thingy that you plug the hole with was too small. I ended up having my father machine an adapter in his machine shop out of aluminum to fit that master. They may sell something that will fit but since i had a full machine shop and a master machinist at the time it was no big deal to just make one.
    Last edited by jb882; 08-03-2023 at 12:25 PM.

  8. Member 1BADAIR's Avatar
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    #28
    I have the Mopar version that I use at work . Love them
    2011 Ranger z521/2023 250ProXS

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    #29
    Quote Originally Posted by 1BADAIR View Post
    Furthest is always first in the auto world. A lot of trailers only have a bleeder on the last caliper in-line
    My MarineMaster was setup this way. When I complained that I wasn't getting a brake application on each of the four calipers, and couldn't get a good bleed, they sent a kit to put a bleeder on each caliper. Works better now, still not great with the crappy Dexter calipers and sticky slide pins. But definitely better.
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    #30
    Quote Originally Posted by DaveBrabec View Post
    Easier with 2 people. Most have a slot to pump cylinder under tongue with a screwdriver

    This is the no gimmick way that works every time.

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    #31
    I have a motive bleeder, holds about a gallon and a half of fluid, pump it up, looks like a garden sprayer. Have fitting for trailer, put hose on bleeder, bleed till your heart is content
    Ron Fears
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  12. Member 1BADAIR's Avatar
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    #32
    2011 Ranger z521/2023 250ProXS

  13. Scraps
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    #33
    Quote Originally Posted by bhjr. View Post
    Hydraulic surge brake actuators are crappy at best. I wish the manufacturers would put a better cap on the master cylinder so the calipers could be power bled to get all of the air out. You have only one way to do this which was expressed above. You’ll make numerous trips up to the reservoir to make sure it’s still full after manually pushing in the tongue or using a vacuum bleeder at that only bleed point. If you run out of fluid in the master cylinder, you get to start all over! Sucks!
    Drop a funnel in the reservoir port and fill it with fluid.
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    #34
    Quote Originally Posted by 1BADAIR View Post
    Good stuff there sir
    Ron Fears
    Stroker/300XS
    1E003823

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    #35
    What size speed bleeder does it take as i looked and it shows several sizes

  16. Member bhjr.'s Avatar
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    #36
    Quote Originally Posted by 1BADAIR View Post
    I actually have the same device, just not the adapter. Happen to have a part #?

  17. Member 1BADAIR's Avatar
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    2011 Ranger z521/2023 250ProXS

  18. Member bhjr.'s Avatar
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    #38
    Thanks. I knew about all the various adapters for automotive use, just had never seen this one before. Will have to order one.

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    #39
    Yup
    Ron Fears
    Stroker/300XS
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    #40
    Quote Originally Posted by varbs521 View Post
    I have a ranger trailer that only has one bleeder valve at the last caliper. They are all connected in a series. What is the best procedure for bleeding a system like this. I just replaced an actuator and bled my brakes, but it takes several pumps of the actuator to lock up my tires. I don't believe this is right and air may still be in lines/calipers. Please help.

    the Ranger system likely has only one bleed screw at the last caliper. If you have a two caliper system, the caliper on the port side will have the bleed screw.


    As noted by somebody else, first, make sure the master cylinder is bled. I believe simply pumping with a screwdriver will do the trick. UFP has instructions on how to bleed the a – 60 surge master cylinder.

    What I found is that you can get air stuck between the first and second calipers, even using a vacuum bleeder. I put a funnel in the master cylinder fill port and fill the funnel up with fluid. Next, take a small pair of vice grips and pinch the flexible line that exits the first caliper. Now, using a screwdriver, actuate the master cylinder to build pressure. Hold pressure and have someone crack the top banjo fitting on that first caliper. Dollars to donuts you will hear and feel a lot of air come out. Repeat. Once you get air coming out, undo the vice grips and move to the other caliper. Use the bleed port to bleed the remainder of the system. Remember, actuate the surge brake master cylinder with a screwdriver, hold pressure, then open and close the bleed screw. make sure you never run out fluid in the master cylinder. In my experience, this system cannot be completely bled with a vacuum bleeder. If you have a pressure bleeder that pushes fluid from the master cylinder through the system, my guess is that would probably work.

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