Electronics Battery and Wiring Setup Advice!

[DTS]

I am looking for some advise and input on my setup for my boat as to how it could be improved with regard the run time and quality of image (specifically with Garmin Livescope) and what I can do to best maximize it. Here is my current setup:
2019 Blazer 625 with Merc 250 Pro Xs V8
3 50 Amp Hour Ionic TM Lithium Batteries
1 X2 Power Group1 31 AGM Cranking and House Battery
1 100 Amp Hour LI Time Lithium for ONLY my electronics
Ionic 4 bank Charger

Electronic Setup:
- Helix 12 MSI G4 at Dash
- Helix 12 DI G2 at Dash
- Helix 12 MDI G4 at Bow
- Garmin 1242 XSV at Bow
- Garmin Livescope LVS 32 w/GLS10 Box
- Mega 360
- 5 Port Ethernet box.

Units are wired to a blue sea fuse box under dash, all units are wired with 12 Ga. wiring, GLS10 Box is wired with 10 GA to the fuse box. Fuse box is wired direct to 100 Ah lithium battery with 8 Ga. wiring and cut off switch. all wiring is Tinned Duplex marine grade wiring.

My question is, would changing to a larger capacity 12 V lithium for my electronics help such as the Ionic 125 AH? or go to the Lithium Pros 12v 210 AH for cranking and electronics? or change to a 16v 100 AH battery for just electronics be the best bet? or is going to Seaclear type wiring harness the best option?

Any advise is appreciated!!

Thanks all!

[haus9393]

It would help with longer run time if you are draining your stuff dead. A 16v isn’t going to help you get a better picture. It’s a sales gimmick as well as the sea clear harness, all gimmicks. They help if your setup is already crap but yours sounds good so no need to add it. I doubt you would see any benefit such as screen clearness as long as your graphs are getting over 12v. Which based on your setup I would guess you are at 13.0 v or more all the time unless there are issues with your connectors.

[DTS]

It would help with longer run time if you are draining your stuff dead. A 16v isn’t going to help you get a better picture. It’s a sales gimmick as well as the sea clear harness, all gimmicks. They help if your setup is already crap but yours sounds good so no need to add it. I doubt you would see any benefit such as screen clearness as long as your graphs are getting over 12v. Which based on your setup I would guess you are at 13.0 v or more all the time unless there are issues with your connectors.

I see 12.9 or so volts on both graphs on the bow to start the day and by noon it drops to about 12.3, from a full charge I’ve yet to kill the battery completely, yet!

[haus9393]

I see 12.9 or so volts on both graphs on the bow to start the day and by noon it drops to about 12.3, from a full charge I’ve yet to kill the battery completely, yet!

Yea I’m sure others with chime in on their thoughts. But that’s my 2 cents.

[willwork4fish]

I think the only thing that would help based on your setup and assuming all of your connections are good is moving your dedicated electronics battery to a more forward area so you don't have as long a run from your rigging compartment to your electronics. I'm not an electrical expert by any means but a shorter run means less voltage drop.