Ultrex prop shaft seals

[zelmo]

I am replacing the armature on a 112 36v Ultrex and figured while I am at it I might as well replace all the seals as the inside of the housing was damp and there are some signs of corrosion.

For the prop shaft seals can they be dug out from the prop side and replaced or does the bushing need to be punched out for access to the seals?

[bobcoy]

I seem to remember there is a kit for all those parts that need to be replaced. Bob

[zelmo]

Yes, I have the kit. I just need to know the best way to do the seals.

[jimsch]

You Tube search it

[zelmo]

You Tube search it

Actually I had found that video, but the guy seemed to really botch it and dinged up the bushing and housing so I wasn't sure if that was the best way to do it.

[Bradrodfish]

These seals are a little more tricky than the smaller one. You need to make or find a tool made of square stock with a right angle bend in it. File the end of the bend. Insure the bent part is not too long and fits in the prop shaft hole. Maneuver the bent part inside the prop shaft hole from the back side. You will feel it when it gets between the two seals. Tap with a hammer until the outer seal moves and then flip the brush end housing over. Use a medium flat blade screwdriver to take the outer seal out. There is a paper spacer in the second seal or inner seal. Remove and put on the side. Try to do the same procedure for the second seal.
Replace the seals. Add a light coat of grease on the walls of the seal housing and on each of the new seals The grove side points outward on both seals. The spacer goes in the groove of the inner seal.
Find a deep throat socket that the outside diameter fits just inside the seal groove. Use it with and tap with a hammer to install the inner seal then repeat for the outer seal. Good Luck

[bobcoy]

OK, I have a question if I have this task ahead of me at some point. If all is said and done, would you buy the kit again or would you fork out the $600 + for a new, warrantied, motor/shaft assembly? Yes I know the MSI assembly is much more. I am also concerned about the seal between the motor and shaft. How many found out that was the original water entry point? Also with all the other parts that are not in the kit? Seems like a pretty “iffy” proposition to me. Even though I was a tec in electronics for many years and could do this proceedure, Does it make sense unless money prevents it. Lastly I know the Minn Kota repair centers no longer fix the water damaged motors, they replace the assembly. Bob

[zelmo]

It turns out that removing the seals was not that difficult. I have a screwdriver with a right angle end that worked perfectly. There was some moisture between the two seals so I am going to let everything sit overnight to completely dry out before putting it back together tomorrow with the new seals.

I don’t see the need to replace the whole housing, at least for me. I do have worries about future water intrusion, whether you replace just the seals or the whole housing. I guess the only way to be sure is to break it down to check periodically.

[Bradrodfish]

OK, I have a question if I have this task ahead of me at some point. If all is said and done, would you buy the kit again or would you fork out the $600 + for a new, warrantied, motor/shaft assembly? Yes I know the MSI assembly is much more. I am also concerned about the seal between the motor and shaft. How many found out that was the original water entry point? Also with all the other parts that are not in the kit? Seems like a pretty “iffy” proposition to me. Even though I was a tec in electronics for many years and could do this proceedure, Does it make sense unless money prevents it. Lastly I know the Minn Kota repair centers no longer fix the water damaged motors, they replace the assembly. Bob

If the inside the motor is looking real bad and it is not fixable then I would pony up the money for a new motor assembly. If it just has water in it and it was run for a day or so I would spend the time an money to rebuild the motor. You right it is a 50-50 deal., there are ways to check everything out after the motor is back together. so it is up to the individual.
Most of the motors I see with water. The water has been in the motor for a while and it is not worth the rebuild.
A new motor assembly is a lot cheaper than a complete troll motor.

[Bradrodfish]

It turns out that removing the seals was not that difficult. I have a screwdriver with a right angle end that worked perfectly. There was some moisture between the two seals so I am going to let everything sit overnight to completely dry out before putting it back together tomorrow with the new seals.

I don’t see the need to replace the whole housing, at least for me. I do have worries about future water intrusion, whether you replace just the seals or the whole housing. I guess the only way to be sure is to break it down to check periodically.

It is normal to see a little moisture between the seals, but not in the motor. Also the rust you may see around the outer seal is normal also. You will see it on 90% of the motors, especially in the south.

[zelmo]

there are ways to check everything out after the motor is back together.

I know that my problem is caused by hitting rocks. There is an area that I go with the Ultrex where it is not a matter of if but how often.



While this picture is from summer lows you get an idea of what I am dealing with. If I hit one and rotate the skeg off center is there an easy way to check for seal damage without tearing it apart?

[Bradrodfish]

Bro you don't need a troll motor you need a swamp buggy.

[zelmo]

Imagine that area with 2 feet more water. That puts most of those rocks under the surface, but some by very little. My latest mishap came when I deployed the Ultrex in a safe area and hit spot lock. Unfortunately it decided that it wasn’t positioned properly and did a 340 degree rotation. That took long enough for the current to drift me over one of the very shallow ones and it was a disaster when it went full power to get back to the original spot.

[Le@r]

These seals are a little more tricky than the smaller one. You need to make or find a tool made of square stock with a right angle bend in it. File the end of the bend. Insure the bent part is not too long and fits in the prop shaft hole. Maneuver the bent part inside the prop shaft hole from the back side. You will feel it when it gets between the two seals. Tap with a hammer until the outer seal moves and then flip the brush end housing over. Use a medium flat blade screwdriver to take the outer seal out. There is a paper spacer in the second seal or inner seal. Remove and put on the side. Try to do the same procedure for the second seal.
Replace the seals. Add a light coat of grease on the walls of the seal housing and on each of the new seals The grove side points outward on both seals. The spacer goes in the groove of the inner seal.
Find a deep throat socket that the outside diameter fits just inside the seal groove. Use it with and tap with a hammer to install the inner seal then repeat for the outer seal. Good Luck

Hello for the seal orientation would you mean that the spring side of each seals are facing toward the water?

Patrick

[Bradrodfish]

That is correct.

[Le@r]

That is correct.

Thanks I saw a lot on the internet that has the most outward seal install with the spring facing towar the armature

thanks

[lpugh]

Thanks I saw a lot on the internet that has the most outward seal install with the spring facing towar the armature

thanks

Those seal do not keep a lubricant in, they keep water out. Both seal lips towards prop