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  1. #1
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    jumpstart switch wiring concern

    2015 Ranger Z119C

    I have been noticing a ton of electrolysis on my new to me 2015 ranger z119c. I see it all over, jack plate, zinc plates, trolling motor lower unit housing. And even most recently, on the screws of my mega 360 transducer.

    The boat has a factory installed jumpstart switch on the 3 battery system. One cranking, and two TM batteries. I noticed 2 things that seem to contradict the wiring diagram for the switch.

    1. The grounding strap goes from the negative post on the cranking battery, over to the negative post on the battery that is supplying positive to the TM. As per the diagram, ground strap should go to the negative post on the battery that is supplying the negative to the trolling motor.

    2. The Batt 2 wiring coming from the switch goes to the positive post of the battery that is supplying positive to the trolling motor. As per the diagram, this batt 2 wire should be on the positive post of the battery that is supplying negative to the trolling motor.

    So both ground strap and batt 2 wire from switch are on the TM battery that is supplying the positive up to the bow. From looking at the diagram, and reading the specific notes, I am thinking I need to move both of these to the other TM battery, the one that is supplying the negative to the bow.

    Can anybody confirm this setup, and if it may be causing my electrolysis?

    Thanks!

  2. Member dean c's Avatar
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    #2
    Take a look at this thread….if you’re wired incorrectly, definitely can cause electrolysis.

    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=1001541

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    #3
    Quote Originally Posted by dean c View Post
    Take a look at this thread….if you’re wired incorrectly, definitely can cause electrolysis.

    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=1001541

    Thanks Dean. I think this post confirmed what I am thinking. I have Batt 2 wire from switch, and ground strap going to the "high side" battery, and it needs to be on the "low side".

    Anyway I can test/confirm this other than cleaning up the electrolysis, and going out a few times?

  4. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by blueblaster8 View Post
    Thanks Dean. I think this post confirmed what I am thinking. I have Batt 2 wire from switch, and ground strap going to the "high side" battery, and it needs to be on the "low side".

    Anyway I can test/confirm this other than cleaning up the electrolysis, and going out a few times?
    Measure the voltage between bare metal on the TM lower unit and cranking battery negative. Yours is wired wrong.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
    nothing else matters.​

  5. Member dean c's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blueblaster8 View Post
    Thanks Dean. I think this post confirmed what I am thinking. I have Batt 2 wire from switch, and ground strap going to the "high side" battery, and it needs to be on the "low side".

    Anyway I can test/confirm this other than cleaning up the electrolysis, and going out a few times?
    I’m betting the wiring is your issue based on the OP. Other issues causing electrolysis such as bonding or stray current from marinas or other sources are not common with bass boats.

    From the Ultrex installation manual

    Automatic Jump Start Systems and Selector Switches
    Automatic jump start systems and selector switches tie the negatives of the connected batteries together. Connecting these systems to the “High Side” Battery or “Middle” Battery in the diagrams below and will cause significant damage to your trolling motor and electronics. The only trolling motor battery that is safe to connect to one of these systems is the “Low Side” Battery.

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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by CatFan View Post
    Measure the voltage between bare metal on the TM lower unit and cranking battery negative. Yours is wired wrong.
    Thanks CatFan. I can certainly measure this. Based on the current wiring I have described, I would expect this to show some current (cause of the electrolysis), and once I fix the wiring, I should not see any current, is this correct?

  7. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by blueblaster8 View Post
    Thanks CatFan. I can certainly measure this. Based on the current wiring I have described, I would expect this to show some current (cause of the electrolysis), and once I fix the wiring, I should not see any current, is this correct?
    Yep. You’ll likely see 12V or 24V between them depending on whether your TM is 24 or 36V.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
    nothing else matters.​

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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by CatFan View Post
    Yep. You’ll likely see 12V or 24V between them depending on whether your TM is 24 or 36V.
    I did not measure any current between cranking battery negative, to the TM metal housing.

  9. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by blueblaster8 View Post
    I did not measure any current between cranking battery negative, to the TM metal housing.
    You are looking for voltage, not current.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
    nothing else matters.​

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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by CatFan View Post
    You are looking for voltage, not current.
    likely his terminology is just incorrect -- no way to measure current in that situation
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  11. Member wmitch2's Avatar
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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by blueblaster8 View Post
    2015 Ranger Z119C

    I have been noticing a ton of electrolysis on my new to me 2015 ranger z119c. I see it all over, jack plate, zinc plates, trolling motor lower unit housing. And even most recently, on the screws of my mega 360 transducer.

    The boat has a factory installed jumpstart switch on the 3 battery system. One cranking, and two TM batteries. I noticed 2 things that seem to contradict the wiring diagram for the switch.

    1. The grounding strap goes from the negative post on the cranking battery, over to the negative post on the battery that is supplying positive to the TM. As per the diagram, ground strap should go to the negative post on the battery that is supplying the negative to the trolling motor.

    2. The Batt 2 wiring coming from the switch goes to the positive post of the battery that is supplying positive to the trolling motor. As per the diagram, this batt 2 wire should be on the positive post of the battery that is supplying negative to the trolling motor.

    So both ground strap and batt 2 wire from switch are on the TM battery that is supplying the positive up to the bow. From looking at the diagram, and reading the specific notes, I am thinking I need to move both of these to the other TM battery, the one that is supplying the negative to the bow.

    Can anybody confirm this setup, and if it may be causing my electrolysis?

    Thanks!
    Wired this way would put 24 VOLTS to your starter if you used the jump switch !!! Both POS and NEG wires from the Jump Switch need to go to the SAME battery. And that should be the battery that has the NEG wire from the Trolling Motor connected to it. You should read 12v across the Jump Switch connections for Jump.
    Ranger Boats / Mercury Motors
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  12. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by wmitch2 View Post
    Wired this way would put 24 VOLTS to your starter if you used the jump switch !!! Both POS and NEG wires from the Jump Switch need to go to the SAME battery. And that should be the battery that has the NEG wire from the Trolling Motor connected to it. You should read 12v across the Jump Switch connections for Jump.
    No, it would still be 12V, just having cranking negative 12V above TM negative.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
    nothing else matters.​