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  1. #1
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    "loping" or bow bouncing when trimming. Need more bow lift?

    19 foot Falcon 195. Mercury 200 4 stroke. Fury 23.

    The fastest I can get is 65mph at 5500-5600 rpms. I know I should be turning more rpms and the boat is capable of faster. I have a hydraulic jackplate and keep it fairly low as I've heard Furys like being run low. If I try to trim up higher to get more rpms the bow starts bouncing and I start to lose stability. I also tried raising the plate but I start getting a rooster tail. Is this a sign I need more bow lift?

    I did switch to lithium trolling motor batteries and that lightened my stern a bit. I wonder if this is causing my stern to sit higher, messing with my balance. I thought about trying several things:

    1. Keeping the boat level but raising the plate for more rpms. This makes the rooster tail a little worse but maybe I need to keep the trim down more and raise the plate more.
    2. Trying different props like a Tempest 23 or Bravo.
    3. Sending it to Mark. Maybe I need more cup?
    4. This sounds stupid but adding talons or poles to increase weight on stern for stability?

    Any advice would be appreciated. Hole shot is not an issue at all.

  2. Moderator 21XDC's Avatar
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    #2
    I think more diameter would help a lot and carry the bow/load much better.

    Marks Props 317-398-9294, 1850 East 225 South, Shelbyville, Indiana 46176 propellerman59@gmail.com http://www.marksprops.com/index.html

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    #3
    Probably need to replace that Merc 200 with a Suzuki

  4. Moderator Fishysam's Avatar
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    #4
    1 and 2 are worth the immediate try, then 4 and then 3 in this order.

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    #5
    Try adding water to the livewell. You may get better speed and not need to trim as high.

  6. Member
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    #6
    You really should be getting a whole lot more rpms. A 23P Fury 3 blade should be really close to what you need to get you there. Not really sure by what you mean by “bouncing or losing stability” when you trim it up. Is it chine walking? If it is just chine walk that is preventing you from getting the desired rpms that is easily fixed. LOL Also need to know how far the prop is below the pad. A hydraulic jack plate is a must if you want to get maximum performance out of your boat. There is no one height that is perfect for all conditions. When it’s rough I lower my jack plate and get more lift over the chop and it rides much better. Other times when I want to go really fast I raise the motor up with the jack plate. Depending on the current water conditions I adjust my jack plate each time I get out on the water.

  7. Member
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    #7
    Thanks for the suggestions. It's definitely not just chine walking. the bow is bouncing or loping which is a term I've heard for it. I do carry a lot of shit in my boat, but I didn't think it was THAT much. That being said, I'm thinking a Tempest 23 may be in my future. Should I go Tempest or 4 blade? I'm fishing a tournament this weekend, I'll try raising the jackplate more. But more and more I'm starting to suspect I'm loaded a bit front heavy and need something to carry that load. I got both rod lockers fairly filled up, and the single center compartment is filled too. I'll also try filling up livewells. And I do have a hydraulic plate.

  8. Member
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Snakebit95 View Post
    Probably need to replace that Merc 200 with a Suzuki
    HAHA not bad. Suzuki would be getting 57 at best. I think once I get right prop or figure this out I should be getting close to 70.

  9. Member
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    #9
    A 4 blade is not a bad idea, definitely be easier to drive and probably give you more bow lift. If you could get your hands a a 24P Bravo XS I would be interested to see how it would perform. One of Mark’s Razors or even a Trophy. A B&B Trophy by Mark really is a hidden gem. I ran one on my old 19ft Champion that would hang with my A45’s. Good luck!

  10. Member
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    #10
    Where is the transducer mounted? If the ducer is too close to the water feeding the prop it aerates the water which causes a loss of "bite" and will drop the bow. I chased bow lift for a full year. Lots of money and time spent. If the ducer is 12 inches or less from the pad pull the screws, tie it up to the rigging hose and go for a run. You might be surprised before you go spending money. The ducer placement on my skeeter was a difference of 12-13 mph.

  11. Member
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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewM-Fishing View Post
    Where is the transducer mounted? If the ducer is too close to the water feeding the prop it aerates the water which causes a loss of "bite" and will drop the bow. I chased bow lift for a full year. Lots of money and time spent. If the ducer is 12 inches or less from the pad pull the screws, tie it up to the rigging hose and go for a run. You might be surprised before you go spending money. The ducer placement on my skeeter was a difference of 12-13 mph.
    This is very good advice, and I second this. I had this exact problem years ago on another boat that I owned. I moved the transducer and it was night and day difference.

  12. Member
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    #12
    You need more stern lift if the bow is hopping. Go to negative 5 degree wedges or a 4 blade prop.

  13. Member
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    #13
    I agree with capt james, my triton is loaded heavy and I had some porpoise in rough water. Switched to fury 4 which lifted stern a lot more and helped keep my bow from dropping.

  14. Member
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewM-Fishing View Post
    Where is the transducer mounted? If the ducer is too close to the water feeding the prop it aerates the water which causes a loss of "bite" and will drop the bow. I chased bow lift for a full year. Lots of money and time spent. If the ducer is 12 inches or less from the pad pull the screws, tie it up to the rigging hose and go for a run. You might be surprised before you go spending money. The ducer placement on my skeeter was a difference of 12-13 mph.
    Sorry about reviving an old thread. Been busy and haven't seen the latest responses.

    This is very interesting. It's hard to say without pictures but it's mounted on the step below the one the jack plate is on. Perhaps I should mount it on the transom where the jack plate is bolted on, rather than on the step below. It's possible it's too close to the pad. I pullled it and zip tied it to the rigging hose. Unfortunately I'll be out of town but hopefully I can run it soon. If this doesn't work then it looks like I need to go to a tempest or 4 blade.

  15. Member
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    #15
    From what you just posted I'll pretty well guarantee it's the transducer causing slip. Let us know how it goes.

  16. Member
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    #16
    This is what I did with mine.


    DSCN5410.JPGDSCN5412.JPG
    2004 Stratos 285 Pro XL 150 Hp Optimax OT862351

  17. Member
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    #17
    If the bow is hopping, you need more stern lift not bow lift. A 4 blade propeller is what I would try. Either a Bravo XS if you're looking for an everyday fast prop that's also a great mid range and handling prop. Or a Promax, but a Bravo XS would probably be best at your speeds.