Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    Member paulrodbender's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Dartmouth, MA
    Posts
    3,484

    Transom experts. Need help

    rojoguio and others? Got a buddy of mine that asked for my help on his transom. He was thinking about Seacast but I’m trying to talk him into Coosa board. I’m just not sure about being able to make this bend on his transom. Any ideas and what would be the best way to tackle this? Thanks In advance
    .43FC150F-A141-4913-B18F-62610E46347C.jpeg102BE158-708E-4719-9C4B-6F3B0E088EB9.jpeg394578E7-0473-49BB-A0CA-72B2D6C64F5D.jpeg

    Sorry, using my phone.

    Thanks,
    Paul

  2. Member
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Kiln Mississippi
    Posts
    837
    #2
    Certainly a interesting transom. It would take some creative construction to say the least. I've written in the past that it is impossible to remove all the old wood core, put a tooth on the substrate, and have SeaCast stick anywhere near as well as a Coosa/Epoxy job. To do this job with Coosa is over a non-experienced boat builder's head If I can just come out and say it. SeaCast may be the best bet here. I would get the vessel inside a shop, run a dehumidifier long enough to pull out the water where it is till the hull is very dry. Maybe set a fan blowing down in the repair area. To explain how to repair permanently going the Coosa/Epoxy route would be a book not a thread.

  3. Member
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Kiln Mississippi
    Posts
    837
    #3
    sent you a pm

  4. Member paulrodbender's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Dartmouth, MA
    Posts
    3,484
    #4
    Thanks rojo.... This is the project I think I told you about some time ago. I'm thinking, Seacast is going to be tough too with that middle layer of glass in there. I'd love to cut the back outer skin off and get rid of all that wood and that middle layer. Coosa, I think would have to be a bunch of strips, perhaps horizontally....

  5. Member
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Kiln Mississippi
    Posts
    837
    #5
    In no way would I use SeaCast unless the boat was a inboard. I'm assuming its powered by outboards. For ease of access purposes (looking at the 3 images, the boat is not sitting in my shop) I would cut everything out from the outside. If worked from the inside you have all the prep and lamination work to do on your knees. A stepped cutting layout would be my approach. The Divider layer would have a 6in flange, outside layer 3in flange. 12 times grinding taper practices would need to be maintained, the taper opening laid back from the outside so you can stand and relaminate with epoxy as the sections are installed. Epoxy butter packed in all the flanges, pre-fitted Coosa Core tapered on a table saw to maintain the radius, tapped in the flanges first then work to the middle. Coosa Bluewater 26 can be pieced anyway needed for this. If I was doing this my lamination calculation would allow a layer of 1708 covering the entire inside of the divider unit before re-installation allowing clamping till cured here. I would put another layer of 1708 after this first laminated is back in. The second run of Coosa Core would then be buttered in clamping very well. This should leave you with the last Coosa acting as a outer skin, allowing you to police up the excess Coosa squeezing out. I think I would go ahead and let this fully cure as little grinding would be needed to do it all over again. The outer Coosa would get 2 layers of 1708 and if bracket mounting the outboards I would use my Brake to conform a piece of 5052 1/8in to cover everything again clamping it in like Triton did in the LTS line of Bay Boats. The outer skin can be epoxy laminated back right to the aluminum properly prepped allow to cure policing the epoxy that extruded at the seam all the way around. The real issue is what thickness Coosa to use so after clamping the divider and outer Skin falls inline with the flanges left to work back to. This summary makes a lot of assumptions so treat this as a starting playbook for planning the repair. The vessel looks like a inboard, if it is all this work is unnecessary.

  6. Member
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Kiln Mississippi
    Posts
    837
    #6
    I just looked at the pictures again and see it is outboard powered. I was focused on the unique lamination not even seeing the engine footprint. More coffee!

  7. Member
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Kiln Mississippi
    Posts
    837
    #7
    I don't see any knee bracing, was this originally a "Full Transom" hull being converted? Was there a "Cap" not shown?

  8. Member paulrodbender's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Dartmouth, MA
    Posts
    3,484
    #8
    All original from 1978… Tripp Angler center console. 115 Yamaha outboard.