Reading the recent 36v>12v jump starting thread got me to thinking... With Jump boxes like Noco, Audew, etc becoming so prevalent, is there any reason to install a Tournament Saver Pro or similar "Jump Switch" anymore (assuming boat did not come with jump switch from factory). I bought a Tournament Saver Pro on a recent sale but to be honest, I'm thinking there is no point to installing it since I carry a Jump box anyway... unless there are other benefits?
It’s quicker to flip a switch than pull out a portable pack and the tournament saver pro never needs to be recharged.
2023 Ford F150 XLT Super Crew 2.7L Ecoboost FX4
2021 Phoenix 721/ Mercury 250 ProXS 4s
HDS16 Pro- Solix15 : Console
HDS16 Pro W/AT - Garmin 126 W/ lvs34 - Solix12/ 360 : Bow
Dual 10' Blades/ Lowrance Ghost/ Bobs Hydraulic Plate
225ah cranking / 100ah trolling. Ionic/Relion lithium
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Valid points. It's just bigger/heavier than I expected, and I'm having trouble figuring out where to mount it, unless I re-do my PP pump mounting in some way. Skeeter has this odd "dead space" right in the middle of the bilge, which is a large area of wasted space. Maybe I can figure out some way to piggyback it off the existing charger mount that's in the center.
Dug into this a little more - it's not as heavy as I was thinking - once I unwrapped the cabling, the plastic box itself is actually not heavy at all.
I have room on the far port side - I was thinking this likely would not work due to distance from the console for the switch, but the unit comes with a LOT of cable for the switch, so that may work out after all. Also, the leads for the cranking battery are about twice as long as the TM battery leads, which also works in my favor for mounting on the port side.
The instructions just say "connect to TM battery" but I know there is a specific way to do this, so as not to introduce electrolysis, correct? Jones Trolling Motor touched on it in a YT vid, connect to same battery as neg lead from TM I think. If I can connect to either of the TM's on the port side, should be fine. If I have to connect to the one next to the cranking battery, then the cabling won't reach so will have to come up with another plan. I *might* be able to squeeze in on the far starboard size to the right of the PP pumps.
Honestly, hardest part is drilling the holes - on the far port and starboard ends there is a raised "shelf", I assume there for PP pumps as that is where Skeeter installs them, so no issue drilling down into the raised shelf. But if I have to go vertical, ie either on the wall ahead of the rear port sponson, or the beam wall on the starboard side - that's where I just don't know if it's safe to drill. Will have to jump over to the Skeeter forum and see if anyone has drilled there before.
Last edited by 78Staff; 08-08-2022 at 07:02 PM.
Well, looks like it's going to be option 2. Negative from TM is going to the TM battery next to Cranking battery :(. Makes sense I guess, as the breaker for the pos wire is mounted on port side, so pos wire runs to TM battery on far port side.
So will have to look at trying to mount TSP on the starboard side, jammed it there with the PP pumps. Kinda wish I had installed this before I installed that 2nd PP pump now lol. Took some measurements, it will fit fine, just going to be a pita to install, ie drill/screw in etc... Assuming I can drill into that bulkhead. Going to research that now.
Last edited by 78Staff; 08-08-2022 at 07:02 PM.
Don’t over think it.
Works in theory, nothing is perfect. The biggest potential issue is that you may be trying to start a dead battery from another less than full charge battery, and it may not work.
we all know when our staring battery will die, at the end of the day, after running the trolling motor in wind and current.
IMHO, for as many times as I will need a jump, I will take the inconvenience of needing to connect an jump box
Doesn't the Power Pole Charge have this same function? I've never considered buying a tournament saver pro because I just keep a jump box in the boat. Or worst case scenario, I can jump my cranking battery from a TM battery.
'13 Triton 19SE 225 Pro XS
'09 Chevy Silverado Z71
I used a plug like those that charge forklifts and some heavy gauge wire and made a jumper plug. When the starter needs jumped, just plug them together, when you are done, unplug and go about your day.
In the end, installing by the PP pumps would have been a PITA - I would have had to remove at least one or possibly both pumps just to be able to get room to drill and then screw in/mount the box. At some point I will be removing them as I will be replacing the hoses, but I didn't want to tackle that project today :).
So, I wound up installing on the underside of the aluminum deck plate on the port side... I still need to route the cables (will do that when it cools off a bit this evening), but I measured beforehand and they are good to go from that mounting point.
Well she's all wired up, except for the button. Got the wire for it run to the console just can't decide where to drill lol. Skeeter dash has a lot of... padded trim I guess it's called. There are a few spots on metal dash plates I have to pick from, just need to check what's behind it, and don't feel like yanking the dual console mount so looking at going up from underneath if i can to inspect for clearance, etc.
Thinking left or right of the steering column, or maybe even down on the rocker panel since there is a spot open there. Will jump over to Skeeter Forum see if any ZX owners have some input.
Not my dash, but pretty much the same other than electronics...
I was in same boat, wanted the tournament saver pro but didn’t want all the extra wiring and drill hole in dash, got this instead. Is a permanently installed jumper box on starting battery. Can push button on the box or turn it on from phone. It’s made by ionic.
https://lithiumhub.com/product/emergency-start/
looks pretty cool. Amazing how small electronics are getting. Don't really understand how it keeps a charge from battery if your battery is dead, but I'm sure there some electron storage wizardry going on there same as a Jump Pack I guess, just already attached to the battery.
Just an update, I wound up installing the button on the rocker panel, was simplest solution - quick and easy.
yes sir units instock ready to shipOriginally Posted by duracraftman
TSP alleviates the need to open the bilge, connect a jump box, move a switch (in case of factory jump switch) or connect jumper cables, etc. and then remove same when done. It's just a quick button push, start and go, all from cockpit. So simpler, faster, etc...
FWIW I also carry a small jump pack as well.
Yes the PP Charge has this capability also, but at a substantially higher cost. Of course it does other stuff too :).
Hold on, all this work and stress and you still carry a jump box?
This will not only "Jump" start your motor WITHOUT having to push a button or turn a switch, but it will charge your trolling batteries whenever the big motor is running !! And YOU don't have to do a thing for that to happen !!!!
http://www.yandina.com/troll24info.htm
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Well, I was carrying it before I installed the TSP, and just haven't pulled it out yet. I mean it's the size of a marker buoy basically (which yes, I still carry those too if you want to make fun of that as well...Hold on, all this work and stress and you still carry a jump box?). Plus might be useful for a fellow boater/club member who has starting issues.
And no stress, working on boats is fun / stress relief for me (most of the time, anyway hah).
Last edited by 78Staff; 08-11-2022 at 01:00 PM.
Have read good things about the Yandina options, when I re-do my battery setup I will look at the 36v Trollbridge...
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