So, had some issues loading today at the ramp - new ramp to me, much more "shallow" or flat than I am used to... Had to back in further to drop the boat, and loading later the boat seemed to want to move around quite a bit. I'm assuming I was in too deep when loading the boat.
So is there a general rule of thumb - ie shallower ramps need more bunk exposed, and steeper ramps less bunk? Or something else all-together?
just the opposite... you need to back in deeper on shallow angle ramps.... pay attention to how deep you go back while launching and you'll have a pretty good idea how far to go when loading....just a little bit lessOriginally Posted by 78Staff
Last edited by BDBR; 07-24-2022 at 07:59 PM.
Couple inches down from top of fenders to water level is a good start.
Hmm ok the nose kept kicking off to the side, I assumed I was in to deep but sounds like not - it was an odd ramp took 3 tries to get it on strait. When launching earlier my rear tires were actually in the water I had to back up so far.... Anyway, usually if I am off a bit coming in the trailer/bunks straiten it out, but in this case it seemed to push it further out. Maybe I just need more practice :).
This is first time I've tried this ramp - it's an odd situation it's a pay ramp/park with a store - food/ice/gas/etc and lots of dockspace, but a single lane ramp - but 100 yards strait across the river there is community/free two lane which I usually use. Figured I would try the fancy ramp - they are always less busy since everyone goes to the free one across the creek lol...
Last edited by 78Staff; 07-24-2022 at 08:51 PM.
Well, if your trailer was not self centering then maybe you were too deep. I know I have a general depth for most ramps but on the shallow ramps I go to I have to back down an extra foot or two just to get the boat to slide up the bunks
Next time you are at the ramp you use the most and can load easily pay attention as to how deep the fenders are and use that as your guide for a starting position at each new ramp
For me with my older Skeeter it’s as soon as the diamond plate on top of the fender touches the water
Shallower ramps will require more of the trailer and possibly the tow vehicle in the water but you will find that the fender measurement will still be very close to the same point
You will find you don’t need to go much more than an inch or two deeper or shallower than that point at most ramps
"The handicapped angler"
The best way to learn loading depth is using the unloading depth as a reference. Once the trailer is in the water a pretty decent amount you need back in very slow and pay very close attention to the depth the trailer is at when the boat starts to slide back when unloading. If you're on a lake that allows power loading then you will want your trailer just a tad bit more shallow that it was when it started to slide back when unloading. If your on a lake that you have to winch the boat then you will want the trailer depth about the same as it was once the boats started to slide back as you were unloading.
If your buy yourself you can leave the winch hooked up but let out about 1-2 ft of slack. This way you can see when to boat starts to slide back but by leaving the winch hooked it does not get away. If a partner is loading/unloading you simply explain to them the above method I mentioned.
Once a person has owned their boat long enough to unload/load at ramps with various different angles they will soon learn the best depth for the particular angle ramp they are using. The overwhelming majority of the time when I see someone with loading issues they are too deep. As mentioned earlier pay attention to how it unloads and use that as your gauge on how deep to load.
On any Skeeter trailer I have found that splitting the two E's on the Skeeter cutout logo on trailer step seems to work well most any ramp I have used.i want the the surface of the water spilling those E's.
Finding the right spot where the water gets to a certain point on the trailer has always worked for my boats.
The last 3 have been just as the water gets to the top of fender well on the deep side.
Good tips all, thanks. Will pay closer attention to depth at my normal ramp and go from there.
The ramp at my mom's place is super flat to point of the front tires on the truck are touching water. I learned there that being off centered on approach can kick the nose around like you are talking about. I always had trouble there until one day mom was watching me load and after try number 2 she yelled at me to mover over about a foot. The optical illusion of center had me too far to the right coming in and on deeper ramps it wasn't as big of an issue. I now know what centered looks like and it even helped me on the deeper ramps. As far as trailer depth goes, I'm good with 4 to 6 inches of bunk board out of the water
2014 X19
2014 200 SHO
Gotta love moms! :). That makes perfect sense, I think I may be doing this as well now that you mention it, as I am always getting kicked to the left when it does happen, so I must be hitting the inboard right bunk I suppose. I will work on this next time at ramp.
On most boats I will back in just far enough to cover the outside bunks. Worked pretty well on a fxr20 and now a puma sts. Of course it can all change depending on how steep the ramp is.
every ramp is different. u'll get it figured out
Bryan McDonough
2023 Nitro Z21 XL
Nitro Team
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