93 intruder ve150gletr
Motor is overheating not sure why it has a new thermostats as well as a new water pump i am getting water pressure at the guage and it is peeing just fine
93 intruder ve150gletr
Motor is overheating not sure why it has a new thermostats as well as a new water pump i am getting water pressure at the guage and it is peeing just fine
Also new temp sensors on both sides
.
Last edited by omcforever; 07-16-2022 at 12:00 AM.
Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!
We are needing more info here. Overheating, your getting this going down the lake at speed, how bout at an idle, now at idle I am talking about you on the trailer sitting in the lake at idle from it being cooled down, it goes to overheat at idle just sitting there in the lake? Important question.
First thing I would do is make darn sure this motor is getting oil. You using the VRO still, or in my opinion better yet delete the oil side and then add your oil in the fuel cell with the fuel. It would help to know how this motor is on this.
If you are still on the VRO, you need to figure how much fuel you have on board and add oil to that amount to get 50 to 1 ratio in the fuel cell.It's not that big a deal to be double oiled till you figure this heat issue out. This oil in the fuel cell is a safety factor, if your still using the VRO.
Overheat, you checked the actual Temps on both heads with a known accurate temp gun? You just don't run this motor very much at all when hot.
Last edited by Jeb_H; 07-16-2022 at 09:30 AM.
The alarm came on at speed it does not come on at idle im pretty sure its getting the oil in needs i just filled the oil resevoir up as it was usuing oil
The overheat alarm is only going off on one side of the motor i removed the head and everything looks fine gonna clean everything up good reinstall the head and test again
Don't forget to reseal the water passage openings on the block with RTV and torque to spec.Originally Posted by Jbittner677
Man you put your hand on both heads at the top to make sure, if no temp gun. I would still be double oiled at this point. Heck I don't trust the VRO's that much. Just say'n
Explain why????
Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!
To many of the rubber diaphragms fail because of the alcohol in the fuel, then the power of the pump is defeated slowly over time.
Once this happens the oil being thicker and harder to draw through the hose becomes a bigger issue, more so at first than the fuel for the motor. You still may not get a code, you get enough fuel for the motor to run.
Another problem is it does this on a very slow affect of the VRO, eventually it will give up and throw the horn and/or code, but there will be extra wear on the powerhead.
It's just that rubber diaphragm that is the problem, when a code and/or horn goes off when on the water, I always have a gallon of 2-stroke oil on board, and depending on how much fuel I thing left on the rig, that oil goes in the fuel cell, I do figure we are getting some oil, as we are getting enough fuel for the motor to run. Just how much is never enough. The oil I add is a life line at this point.
Then let's say the horn is a hot horn, so we have double oil in the fuel, sure motor doesn't idle well at all, especially if you trim all the way down, but the double oil also helps protect the cylinder walls and bears while your hot.
I have R&R'd more than a few VRO, even some special custom built that are failed and from the diaphragms that does all the work from the pulse of a piston on the crankcase side that is fuel and oil mix. That is where the fuel gets to the diaphragms.
The oil in that premix from the carbs into the crankcase is never a issue on the diaphragms, it's that sorry fuel we have.
Now if you buy the non-alcohol fuel from the beginning, your VRO will wear much better. This same issue happens to our lawn equipment guys. There are rubber gaskets and on some of the bigger equipment have a fuel pump that is diaphragm design and the fuel gets it over time.
All my stuff and I mean all of it with carbs, 2-stroke or 4-stroke gets no alcohol fuel. My 2-stroke 225 fuel injection 3.1 Yamaha gets non-alcohol fuel. Ring free in all 2-stroke motors no matter what.
That's just me guys, a getting to be an older guy that has been around this stuff since I was a kid. I grew up on a lake right out the back door, I have always fixed my on stuff, everyone around seen this and before long I did many of there stuff as well.
Now long time ago fuel was never the problem unless water in it and/or trash, the main issues was spark and/or plugs. Over time now, here we are.
Edit: one other thing I do is only buy enough fuel for that trip to the lake. I don't want a lot of fuel left for very long. This fuel nowadays has a very short shelf life.
The key is to know the difference between alarms. If it makes you feel good keep on spending the coin on Ring free. Read the MSDS sheet on that and the other savior SeaFoam.
The hot drag racers have been using just a little water for years. You think this chemical we have now doesn't work or worth it, just think about how rough that is and they were doing this on purpose with cold water.
It makes carbon just blast off things that are hot, when the water hits it. Compression goes up, most often to much. This chemical is great when used the right way.
OMC - Tuner cleaner by the gallon was what I like to decarbon with, and it's quite the process to decarbon a 2-stroke that has had time on it, let alone if it's been hot. There is a wrong way and a right way. You just told me, you have no idea lol.
Then once you get the motor decarbonized, the ring free in the fuel every time just makes this easier to decarbon next time, pay now or pay later.
All you have done on a couple of things I commented about is just told me, you don't know near as much as I thought you did lol.
Now this is straight from the text, but you have one sensor with one wire the other with two. Test these like this if questions. Why it's always good to see Temps from a good temp gun. But this might help.
Disconnect the bullet connector and remove the temperature switch from the cylinder head.
Using a continuity light or ohm meter make positive connections to the switch - one lead to the switch and one lead to the metal portion of the switch.
Place the switch and an accurate thermometer in warm automotive crank case oil. Do not use an oil with a low flash point.
Slowly increase the oil tepmerature with an external heat source - do not use an open flam as the heat source.
The switch should respond as follows: Tan Wire, Switch open: 170 F plus or minus 15 F, Switch closed: 203 F plus or minus 6 F, Black/White Wire Switch open: 89 F plus or minus 3 F, Switch closed: 96 F plus or minus 3 F
Replace the switch if your test results vary
The different horns and how they can blow, some times very misleading, with fuel restriction and hot horn and no oil.
The overtemp is the only thing that will put the engine into slow......Championman if that is who you are referring to has forgotten more than most can remember, not to mention he's been OMC trained.....cold water on hot 2 stroke pistons is begging for trouble.....
New to the forum and already insulting people,,SMH
Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!
Yep,,,,
Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!
Sensors work fine they are brand new...new thermostats and impeller...took head off everything looks good but....checked with a temp gun after alarm...seems as if everything is working as it should but im overheating on one aide of the motor
Carbs to lean on that side of the motor? That or something blocking cooling water.
Your sure the stat on that hot side is opening, heck just for FYI swap sides with the T-stat's that will tell you something and where to focus.
I have had to help with what is called red tide, down on the Texas gulf coast. Guys would be fishing these area's and the results would result with a coating that would buildup inside the cooling jackets of the motor, which isolated the needed cool water from the motors cooling stem, so basically water came in and went straight through not cooling anything, including the rectifier/reg.
Things were burning down. So, you could have something blocking the cooling for one side of the motor but a rare issue. There are still questions here to make sure of things before you go to other places.
I use a temp gun and will shoot each individual sparkplug to guage Temps of each cylinder, now you want to shoot just the metal hex part of the plug.
Just how hot is hot on this side temp wise. Really should swap out the T-stats from one side to the other and see if one is bad.
Make darn sure your getting fuel/oil to all carbs and the correct balance. One or more carbs lean is a possibility. Darn shame no dealer there with guys that are true gearheads and can figure stuff out. The fixing is always the easy part. These guys being a weird-o, needs to be able to make a living or they all leave and do something else.
Yes, I guess you can say that, but was after this person said insult to me first on another topic of this forum.
But you guys can color me whatever color you choose and barbecue and eat me if you like. Like on this topic of the forum I am only trying to help a person with whatever problem they have, and what I personally know works and regardless of what the MSDS sheets read.
You want to dig in all the politics of stuff and then apply that to keeping somethings going, well good luck with that. I have no intention to being a problem here, and if that is what you guys think I am doing, just say the word and I will quietly go away. That's that easy part about fixing something, the real challenge here is figure what or who is the problem.
You know, the more I have that about this, I will just go on record here long as it is allowed to stay lol. I am sorry I was basically called a liar and just stood my ground here on things I know as a fact.
To any and all I have Offended, I am sorry truly.
Many years ago I was on this site and for several years. Posted as much help as I had time too. Went by Rowdy, a nick name I was given when I was just a young boy.
Well, Rowdy back into a corner did just exactly what you would expect Rowdy to do lol. He cleared everything out of the way, settled up whatever needed and left.
Sorry again to all I Offended.
You still eatin' them crackers?
Reply With Quote
