Prop for '94 Hydra-Sports

[Purdue06]

I have a ‘94 Hydra-Sports LS175. Just replaced the original 120 Johnson with a ‘96 150 Johnson Faststrike. From reading posts here in the forums I am thinking a Raker 14-1/2 x 24 may be a good prop for this motor.

I just measured the pad height and to my surprise it is at 6”! New motor has same shaft length as old so I figured it would be safe to mount at the same height. Old motor spun a 12-3/4 x 21 at 5800 rpm.

Any help would be appreciated. I don’t want to buy 3 props before I find the one that works.

[Jeb_H]

First off that old motor you had was the 90 degree V-4 block and the newer motor is the 60 degree V-6, they are way different animals.
I am also guessing you don't have a jackplate and have the motor bolted straight to the Transom of the boat.

You have this new setup running now and just need a prop? If so motor running good at idle, while the boat is floating in the lake, not necessarily on a hose?

Lots of questions here, but for good reason. You need to know if you have any running issues with this 150 before you even start to buy a prop. Make sure you have good water pressure before anything else once you fire the motor up also
I, have a 25" Renegade that would runout really well on that 18' boat you have with that motor running correctly.

The prop I have is rough, I can clean it up a little and your going to need a thrust washer which I have and will send also.
I have pix of this prop in the props4sale, in a thread on Johnson and Evinrude Renegade 27" prop. I have several props there in one thread now.

The shaft center to running pad of boat with that motor bolted straight to the Transom is going to need some more water over it to help with the prop getting a good bite.

You add anything like transducers or speedometer pickup tubes off the back dragging in the water, you will need the propshaft deeper.
How many bolt holes you have on the motor you can move the motor up? Each hole is 3/4" you can move the motor up easy enough if you have those. But first make sure it idles good while boat in the lake or at least have the boat on the trailer and backed down the ramp and in the lake. Ready to launch, but still strapped to the trailer.

First thing is getting it running correctly, then try a prop and see where your at with the rpm profile. Just me typing this, brings up another issue your going to need to address.

You will need a different style tach or if the one you do have has the pulse adjustment. It will need to be set for the 150. It's basically a 4 pulse count to the 6 pulse, with the V6 motor.
Heck, I even have some new tachs here that I can fix you up with one of those, if you need one, or you can get one there.

I have way to much of this stuff and I know there are guys out there that need it. Just need to find a way to make things come together.

Heck, I send you this prop and you don't like it for whatever reason, you send it back and I will refund your money. It will be that easy with me. You may want a new 25" Renegade after running this one. That's fine and if you don't want to keep this one for a spare prop, send it back and I'll refund you, just don't fold the prop into a mashed up glob of stainless lol.

If nothing else first check your tach out and make sure it's good to go. Next make sure the motor is running good and has good water pressure. Then even if you don't want to mess with me or even the likes of me, heck I get it, I am like this 25" Renegade prop I have, rough lol.

Just try one of the 25" Renegade props if you can, they run out good. That boat and motor with a jackplate setup right for instance will flat out fly if light loaded. Yes the Raker will be faster, but by a very small amount and why I have all these Renegades around here instead of a stash of Rakers for us locals, we all here like the way the 4 blade prop is over the 3's.

Just say'n

[Purdue06]

Thanks for the reply.

I bought the motor "refreshed." All cylinders measured 110 psi, lower unit and carbs all rebuilt. VRO disconnected and I'm running premix.

I hung the motor this past weekend and started it on muffs, it has never been on the water. Motor is mounted directly to the transom on the second hole from the top. It could be moved up two more holes or down one. Considered a jack plate, but didn't want to change out the steering cables.

I have not changed the pulse setting on the back of the tach yet, but I believe it has the option. I need to replace the water pressure gauge as well, I noticed it pegged out so I figure it froze this winter (gets really cold here). I will also need a brass 1/8" npt elbow to 1/8" line, been looking through the home stores, but haven't found one yet. Still looking.

Do I understand correctly, I should move the motor down since it is directly on the transom? It's at 6" now, that would put me at 6-3/4" below the pad. I do have a speedo and a transducer mounted off the back.

I honestly never considered a four blade, not many run them up here. I have received one suggestion of running a 22 Raker with a repitched trailing edge to keep the hole shot without sacrificing top end. I'm just trying to do my homework and get as much input as I can.

I appreciate your time.

[Jeb_H]

Oh, cool. Like the whole thing with the VRO delete. I am also old school and Like the steering cables over the new hydraulic. So your good there in my opinion man.

Next you could move the motor up two holes, not down, I explained that all bad sorry. I can tell you have been around boats and understand how water pressure guage, can and do freeze. My old 2001 Triton I have been rebuilding has the water pressure guage froze also.

So, we both need one of these, and of all the darn guages I have, I have none of those. I do hope your tach will work, that will help.

Moving the motor up the two holes will help with lots of stuff, just don't go throw everything you have, anchor and all up front. Then try and keep the side to side balance good but with it more heavy to the starboard side(driver) just about 40 pounds or so, and in the back not the front.
I just may have the 1/8" not nipple your needing man, let me go check, I have two buckets with brass fittings, one small stuff, one large. So give me a minute, the only thing is the 90 degree part I am not sure of. If I do it's yours if you like. Will mail to you today. You need this, and regardless don't use Teflon tape on this, that stuff always ends up in the stats, every time. BRB

[Jeb_H]

Ok, I don't have the street 'ele you need. They came with a plastic one or they had the stainless Allen socket head plug.
I got the plugs lol. But I do have a way to get you there and have the hose barb looking toward the rest of the rigging.
You will have to follow and if can't, I can shoot a pic.

It's brass, but it's a "t" with one side of the bullhead side of the "t" it's the street or male 1/8" not, this street side would screw into the block, the other side of the bullhead would get plugged. Then the 90 degree side out from the bullhead side would get the 1/8" hose barb.

You with me. It's darn sure hard just to type this out that makes any sense to me and I am not normal lol.

I do have all of this, including the straight hose barb if it will help. I can pipe dope this with my killer dope and send if you need now, or if you want to look around more to see if you can get the 1/8" not to 1/8" hose barb fitting, it would be lots cleaner than this make shift in a pinch setup.
I would think you could get this online, like Amazon or the like, even in a brass. Matters not to me though, you need/want this, it's yours.

[Jeb_H]

Edit: nothing like a double post. I had a text message and one landlines call in the middle of posting this above.

I found on Amazon a really nice on, let's see if I can hyperlink you.

https://www.amazon.com/TAISHER-Stain...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==


I think it linked cool

[Jeb_H]

I bet you could find a brass one for half the price online if you look enough.
All my searches are always stainless and that is what populates my searches, even though I type in brass.

[basfish]

I have a ‘94 Hydra-Sports LS175. Just replaced the original 120 Johnson with a ‘96 150 Johnson Faststrike. From reading posts here in the forums I am thinking a Raker 14-1/2 x 24 may be a good prop for this motor.

I just measured the pad height and to my surprise it is at 6”! New motor has same shaft length as old so I figured it would be safe to mount at the same height. Old motor spun a 12-3/4 x 21 at 5800 rpm.

Any help would be appreciated. I don’t want to buy 3 props before I find the one that works.

You should be able to mount the engine as high as you can. I run a '92 LS180 with a 150 Intruder mounted in the 3rd hole on a CMC jackplate all the way up with 3 AGM's & 2 8' Talons at 5400rpm's with a 25 Renegade.