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  1. #1
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    May 2015
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    Upgraging to Hydraulic Helm Pump from Teleflex Cable Steering....Helm Mounting

    So my Stump Grinding Lizard Blazer VL100 is getting the steering replaced for the fourth time. Teleflex NFB type helms have been the norm on this boat since I bought it. I'm tired of getting the slack developing in the helm over time and had a new BayStar Hydraulic Steering in the shop. This post is to address drilling your console to mount the replacement Hydraulic Helm Pump with a big hole already in the dash. BayStar & SeaStar need a 3in hole, centered, plus 4 - 5/16in diameter holes for the mounting studs.

    Template.jpgHydraulic Helm and Drilling Fixture.jpgHole Saw Stabilizer.jpgHelm Fitted to Console.jpg

    I used a piece of drop 1/8in 5052 Aluminum Sheet to make a drilling fixture with. First I lined up the top edge of the template paper with the top edge of the aluminum sheet. Then using a very sharp center punch I lightly punch a mark at the very center of each drilling designation. After moving the template out of the way I strike the marks well. Drilling the aluminum sheet on the drill press is straight forward but you do not cut the 3in hole in the template.

    After your template pattern is drilled into the fixture you clamp the fixture to the console in the location needed. If you balance the new mounting holes within the existing holes the hydraulic helm will cover all old holes. A giant O-Ring works very well to seal the helm to the console front. You want it level with the floor of the boat generally. Drill your mounting holes while the fixture is well clamped.

    So now your left with this large, undersized, hole in the center of your new mounting holes. This is no worries as you take your same drilling fixture and drill a scrap of wood with the same 5 hole pattern. After drilling, bolt the scrap of wood to your console bolt it securely on the console face. Once securely bolted the 3in hole in the center can be cut. Using the center hole drilled in the scrap of wood to locate the center for the hole saw you saw the 3in hole out. I come back and open the 4 stud holes to 5/16in as in the directions. Your helm should now fit perfectly.

    BTW, I found a chart from Dometic that has force curves on it. BayStar steering with SeaStar hoses is only a 20% increase in force needed over a SeaStar system. If you use the BayStar tubing it is a 40% increase in force needed over a SeaStar steering system. It's worth buying the hoses if installing the BayStar on say a 70HP engine up.

  2. Member
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    Jun 2012
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    SW Wisconsin
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    #2
    Been thinking of doing this on my tin rig with a 75 4 stroke Merc. Thanks for the advice.

  3. Member
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    Oct 2010
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    chandler
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    #3
    ........
    Last edited by Scott S.; 07-06-2022 at 09:21 AM.
    2023 SCB 20EF
    2023 SCB CC 210LR

  4. Member paulrodbender's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Dartmouth, MA
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    3,484
    #4
    Good info and your arms will thank you for the hydraulic steering…….

  5. Member
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    May 2015
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    Kiln Mississippi
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    #5
    Yeah, hydraulic is the way to go. The main reason I posted this is for the DIY guy who would have trouble mounting the pump when a large hole already existed so the holesaw centering bit would have nothing to stabilize it. For those who have no reference to the force differences at 70hp a Baystar steering system installed with the tubing takes the same force to steer as Teleflex Cable Steering. No benefit at all as far as force to turning the wheel underway. I have the Baystar system with tubing on my 40 Mercury Tin boat and you steer with one finger. Go to a 70hp and it's totally changed. Can't imagine on a 150hp with any trim load like up on a pad. It must take two hands. So this post works with mounting all Hydraulic Helms to grantee proper hole drilling as well as positioning the first time on the console.

  6. Member
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    May 2015
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    Kiln Mississippi
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    #6
    Update after running my boat with the new BayStar hydraulic steering with SeaStar hose set (90HP Etec).

    Steering force needed to turn way, way, improved using the SeaStar hose set over the tubing. While trimmed to the "Sweet Spot" we know what I'm saying, where the force is easiest to steer for the speed your making way. One finger in the sweet spot. Now trimmed up, Jackplate up, boat lifted, the force to steer is significantly improved. I don't run there, my little boat picks up little speed running like that, so I rate the new BayStar steering on a 90hp-15Ft Blazer with a pad, two thumbs up. Worth the effort & cost.

  7. Member
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    Aug 2017
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    Hillsboro, NH
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    #7
    Good to hear it's right on. Been enjoying the heck out of this build.

  8. Member
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    May 2015
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    Kiln Mississippi
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    837
    #8
    Well, thank you Bud but this a different boat. I'm still customizing the big aluminum boat for a friend. That job is keeping me from finishing, painting, and installing the hatches on the project Blazer VL100. This Blazer VL100 is intended to be replaced by the new build I have posted on this site. I've caught 50-75 thousand fish out of this little Blazer, I really can't say if I can let it go even after my Champion is finished. Too many good days, very few dull ones.

    I can't leave my big shop door open anymore while working inside. If it's open someone will stop wanting me to work on their boat. I've removed the signs, quit mowing the grass, even had a realtor ask if I wanted to sell because from the outside it looks abandon. But hopefully this aluminum boat job is the last. I still have a Champion 171SC 3/4's of structural repairs are completed.

  9. Member
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    Aug 2017
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    Hillsboro, NH
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by rojoguio View Post
    Well, thank you Bud but this a different boat. .
    Oops! Thought you had the other one powered up!