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  1. #1
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    Compressor Questions

    ‘13 250 ProXS.. decided to run compression and leak down.. compression was 120-124 and leak down was 1-2%. Decided to turn compressor pulley. Well, it has a rattle and a very rough spot at top of compression stroke. (Would post video if I knew how) Engine is running good, but I’m sure compressor it’s on its last leg.

    1) where’s a good place to look for a reasonable priced compressor (if there is such a thing)
    2) even though compressor hasn’t failed, should injectors and rails be cleaned? Is this something I can do? (I’m a pretty decent mechanic)

    and I plan on doing the work myself except priming the lines. And I will replace the small oil filters while I’m at it.
    ’13 21 HP, 250 ProXS, 10” Atlas, twin Power Poles, 25p Croxtonized Tempest, 2 1/2 PTP, 1/2 tank fuel, driver, all gear, empty wells, 74.7 in 102 deg heat.

  2. Member
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    #2
    No problem for you to replace compressor and clean rails yourself. Only way to feel good about whether or not metal made it past the rings to air side is if you disassemble compressor. You’ll need specialized equipment that you don’t have to flow test the injectors. My guess is you will find the rod end bearing failed and the crank journal chewed up with a lot of metal in the bottom of the compressor and the little in line filters full.

  3. Member
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    #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Jtreed99 View Post
    No problem for you to replace compressor and clean rails yourself. Only way to feel good about whether or not metal made it past the rings to air side is if you disassemble compressor. You’ll need specialized equipment that you don’t have to flow test the injectors. My guess is you will find the rod end bearing failed and the crank journal chewed up with a lot of metal in the bottom of the compressor and the little in line filters full.
    I plan on pulling it apart today. I suspect the rod bearing as well. If the bore isn’t chewed up, do you think any metal made its way into the air system? (Compressor was building good air pressure)
    ’13 21 HP, 250 ProXS, 10” Atlas, twin Power Poles, 25p Croxtonized Tempest, 2 1/2 PTP, 1/2 tank fuel, driver, all gear, empty wells, 74.7 in 102 deg heat.

  4. Member
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    #4
    I have a brand new compressor for sale in the parts for sale section and also have a 2 year old one with 20 hrs I would sell..
    04 521VX 250 Pro XS
    14 521C 250 Pro XS

  5. Member
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    #5
    Update: Removed and opened compressor…. Only problem I found was the roller bearings in the connecting rod are shot. They are rough.. there was a little bit of glitter (metal) in there. Rod journal on crankshaft is shot too.
    Last edited by clayc; 06-28-2022 at 05:21 PM.
    ’13 21 HP, 250 ProXS, 10” Atlas, twin Power Poles, 25p Croxtonized Tempest, 2 1/2 PTP, 1/2 tank fuel, driver, all gear, empty wells, 74.7 in 102 deg heat.

  6. Member
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    #6
    Might get parts for it I have rebuilt one but we have all needed stuff to do. Filters going to crank MUST BE CHANGED, oil is scavenged from compressor for upper and lower crank bearing, oil prime must be done after
    Ron Fears
    Stroker/300XS
    1E003823

  7. Member
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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by bass.man65 View Post
    I have a brand new compressor for sale in the parts for sale section and also have a 2 year old one with 20 hrs I would sell..
    sent you a PM on the compressors
    2017 Triton 21TrX Elite
    Mercury Pro XS 250
    Ultrex 112, Mega 360 w/ Helix 10 Di Si Meg+
    Garmin Livescope + on an Ultra 122SV at the bow.
    Garmin Ultra 122SV and Ultra 126SV at the Helm


  8. Member bhjr.'s Avatar
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    #8
    Mine did the same thing to the point of knocking. No metal in the top. Had the compressor changed, filters changed, oil prime performed, and knock on wood, has performed flawlessly since. I've got 556 hours on it now,failure was at 200 plus hours.

  9. Member
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    #9
    After all the excitement, don't forget to change filters and DON'T FORGET TO PRIME THE OIL. You will need an after market tool to do this or you will need to take it in to merc shop so they can do it. It takes about 15 minutes max but very hard to get in to the dealers to get it done.
    1B737378 / 2009 - 250 PRO XS

  10. Member
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by tomloans View Post
    After all the excitement, don't forget to change filters and DON'T FORGET TO PRIME THE OIL. You will need an after market tool to do this or you will need to take it in to merc shop so they can do it. It takes about 15 minutes max but very hard to get in to the dealers to get it done.
    ^^^^

    Ignore ANY recommendation to do the "jockey shifter thing" in lieu of an oil pump prime sequence as doing so will put your engine back in break in mode which will double oil for 2hrs and likely cost you a set of spark plugs.
    _______

    Phil
    '09 Hewescraft ProV
    '09 150 Optimax


  11. Member
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    #11
    ^^^^^+1
    .................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................

  12. Member
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by SilverFox579 View Post
    ^^^^

    Ignore ANY recommendation to do the "jockey shifter thing" in lieu of an oil pump prime sequence as doing so will put your engine back in break in mode which will double oil for 2hrs and likely cost you a set of spark plugs.
    Thanks for the input. I was planning on changing all the oil filters and flushing the oil lines from compressor to main bearing, etc. Putting engine back to break-in (via shifter) is ridiculous, not doing that. (Doubling oil and cost of plugs, nope)… I know dealers can plug in and prime system (did it after replacing oil pump), but someone mentioned a “tool” to do it. If anyone knows what the “tool” is, please explain and where to get one.

    Also, anyone know where to buy a compressor?

    TIA,

    Clay
    ’13 21 HP, 250 ProXS, 10” Atlas, twin Power Poles, 25p Croxtonized Tempest, 2 1/2 PTP, 1/2 tank fuel, driver, all gear, empty wells, 74.7 in 102 deg heat.

  13. Member Double Trouble's Avatar
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    #13
    Diacom diagnostic software
    Twin 200 2005 Mercury Optimax Engines
    1B191661
    1B160290

  14. Member
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Double Trouble View Post
    Diacom diagnostic software
    Probably a bit expensive just to prime a pump
    ’13 21 HP, 250 ProXS, 10” Atlas, twin Power Poles, 25p Croxtonized Tempest, 2 1/2 PTP, 1/2 tank fuel, driver, all gear, empty wells, 74.7 in 102 deg heat.

  15. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #15
    Did you take a look at Rhonda's post, pinned at the top of the Forum, and drop her an email for assistance with Parts and Accessories?

    Also- if there has been ANY metal fragmentation, odds are very high that it has indeed passed into the air side of the fuel system.

    Despite the above comments- I do NOT recommend fuel rail servicing as a DIY project, unless you have an OEM manual, and the correct tool to disassemble the regulators.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  16. Member
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    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by EuropeanAM View Post
    Did you take a look at Rhonda's post, pinned at the top of the Forum, and drop her an email for assistance with Parts and Accessories?

    Also- if there has been ANY metal fragmentation, odds are very high that it has indeed passed into the air side of the fuel system.

    Despite the above comments- I do NOT recommend fuel rail servicing as a DIY project, unless you have an OEM manual, and the correct tool to disassemble the regulators.
    yes, she has emailed me back.. thanks
    ’13 21 HP, 250 ProXS, 10” Atlas, twin Power Poles, 25p Croxtonized Tempest, 2 1/2 PTP, 1/2 tank fuel, driver, all gear, empty wells, 74.7 in 102 deg heat.

  17. Member Bob G.'s Avatar
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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by clayc View Post
    Probably a bit expensive just to prime a pump
    Yes, a little expense for performing a single function but can be used for more than an oil pump prime. I hook mine up every time I run my motor on the muffs to monitor all parameters including port, starboard and compressor temps.
    2006 Triton TR-21 XD, Mercury 225 Pro XS, S/N 1B287870

  18. Member
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    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by clayc View Post
    Probably a bit expensive just to prime a pump
    If you think an hour's labor is a lot then ~$600 for the software is insanely expensive. Yes, the software IS nice to have, but I haven't yet gotten to the point where it would pay for itself.
    _______

    Phil
    '09 Hewescraft ProV
    '09 150 Optimax


  19. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #19
    I've seen several who bought the software, and offer to help out their friends/buddies for a nominal fee (monetary or frosty beverages).


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  20. Member Bob G.'s Avatar
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    #20
    The hardest part of using the Diacom software is getting my cowling off. At 6’ 2”, the cowling on my motor is as tall as me when the motor is straight up and down.
    2006 Triton TR-21 XD, Mercury 225 Pro XS, S/N 1B287870

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