Wire connector reducers

[Scud]

Going to wire up some new Garmin graphs. Going to run 10 gauge wire from battery to units. How do you guys connect the 10 gauge with the smaller power wire on the graphs?

[M-D]

They do make a step down butt splice.
Another approach, Ideal Industries makes nylon insulated male and female disconnects. They are color coded, yellow would fit 12-10AWG and red fits 22-18AWG and the male tab a female socket are the same size across all the sizes so you can mix and match. This would allow you to easily disconnect the power leads if needed.

[BassCPT]

Posi-lock connectors.
Is the same thing those guys at sea clear are using.

This is for the 10AWG but they make em in a bunch of different sizes.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/29385386398...mis&media=COPY

[McQuaig]

Solder them plus heat shrink tube...easy, cheap and solid connection...

[fishnfireman]

I've been known to strip twice the amount of wire needed on the smaller wire then fold it over before splicing.

[MikeF]

How do you guys connect the 10 gauge with the smaller power wire on the graphs?

Plus you can do as fishnfireman suggested if you need more reduction.





https://www.mcmaster.com/reducing-butt-splices/

[bobcoy]

Soldering a connection where there is constant vibration is not the best connection. Crimping (with proper tools and correct sized terminators) is the best solution. Keep in mind each size upgrade in the wires is double the size. 10/12 is twice the size of 14/16 butt splices. Doubling works but only makes up for one size. You don’t want a 10/12 connection on one half and 18/20 wire on the other side of a 10/12 butt connector. Thats where you need a reducer butt splice connector. (Yellow with a blue stripe on one side) then double the smaller side. Bob

[Dh0ckey11]

I've been known to strip twice the amount of wire needed on the smaller wire then fold it over before splicing.

I'm not proud of it, but it works :)

[bassfisher444]

I've been known to strip twice the amount of wire needed on the smaller wire then fold it over before splicing.

Done that for years, never had a problem. However 10 gauge is way overkill for each unit. I only have 14 gauge going to mine and it is plenty.

[bobcoy]

Glad it works for you! Most situations it is not plenty. JMO Bob

[fishnfireman]

Had to change out the factory 14 in mine when I started adding things at the bow and went with the Solix unit.
The 14 could not run a single solix on the console with nothing else attached. Hit the starter on the big motor and it would show low voltage on the Solix.

[bassfisher444]

Had to change out the factory 14 in mine when I started adding things at the bow and went with the Solix unit.
The 14 could not run a single solix on the console with nothing else attached. Hit the starter on the big motor and it would show low voltage on the Solix.

#14 to each of my Garmin 93sv units works great, no problems at all with them shutting off or low voltage.

[bobcoy]

It is still I=E/R. The bigger brighter screens pull more power. The fact that one battery has a hard time supporting multiple units even with large wires. Many have 4 and even 5 finders and without Lithium smaller wires don’t stand a chance. I have never had more than 2 total finders, but the rest of the stuff I have hooked up test even a Lithium battery. I do not think “future proof” is a thing anymore. Bob

[RazorCat]

When I ran 2 lengths of 10 gauge to the front I terminated the power cord from my HDS-8 to a simple termination block with the appropriate sized ring terminal. Same for the 10awg wire. Secured the 4 terminal block to the hull right with 3M automotive tape. Not much access at the bow so I placed it behind the removable TM plug panel. I bought Wirefly double crimpers designed for heat shrink terminals so the connections are solid. And I have an additional set of terminals on the block for future use.
Voltage reading on the bow graph is 13.2 - 13.3 at the start of the day.
Terminal blocks and heat shrink connectors are cheap, as are the crimpers.

[fishnfireman]

#14 to each of my Garmin 93sv units works great, no problems at all with them shutting off or low voltage.

[toolguy73]

Use heat shrink step-down butt connectors with the glue. I get them at the NAPA store. You'll have to find the right guy to help you locate them. They aren't the easiest thing to find in that system, but they are there and available quickly.

[bobcoy]

When I ran 2 lengths of 10 gauge to the front I terminated the power cord from my HDS-8 to a simple termination block with the appropriate sized ring terminal. Same for the 10awg wire. Secured the 4 terminal block to the hull right with 3M automotive tape. Not much access at the bow so I placed it behind the removable TM plug panel. I bought Wirefly double crimpers designed for heat shrink terminals so the connections are solid. And I have an additional set of terminals on the block for future use.
Voltage reading on the bow graph is 13.2 - 13.3 at the start of the day.
Terminal blocks and heat shrink connectors are cheap, as are the crimpers.

I start the day with 13.2 or 13.3. 8 Hours later in the summer I usually read 13.4. Lithium and the temps and use have warmed the battery. It is down to about to 50% SOC though. Bob