Removal lower cowling

[blue shad]

Serial #1B823089 I have a Optimax 115 2013 that I need to remove the lower cowling on. Is there a site that I can get some information on this.
Thanks

[JOE54]

your on the best there is , got a factory manual ?????

[SilverFox579]

Going to take a long shot and "assume" the lower cowlings attach the same way as the 2.5L & 3L. Remove the upper cowling and look for two bolts at the rear, one holds the rear cowling latch pin and there's another below that near the bottom. Moving to the front, there should be another accessible from below and outside on the port side, the last one is the bugger, it's inside and directly underneath the bundle containing the control cables, fuel line, and harness(es) where they pass into the cowling.

As Joe indicated, these locations are shown in the factory service manual in the Powerhead section.

[JOE54]

lil different on a 115 they have some 10mm size nuts on mid section and one in front of oil tank like the L3 carb mtrs as well as some smaller ones

[SilverFox579]

What I get for "assuming".

[krindgen]

Trick is realizing even with the bolts removed, it "feels" like it's still screwed on until you break free of the gaskets.

[JOE54]

ive been doing this too long

[styler]

This is one of those things I dont understand at all. Removal of the lower cowlings is almost a given on my 150 whenever I need to do normal things such as plug removal, or like that little inline oil filter ect. Most of this can be done with out removal but its soo much eaiser. why in the world do they make this stuff so hard to remove? Mine isnt to bad bad 4 5/16 bolts and much easier than the 115 but these could have been done with a couple of latches.

[SilverFox579]

This is one of those things I dont understand at all. Removal of the lower cowlings is almost a given on my 150 whenever I need to do normal things such as plug removal, or like that little inline oil filter ect. Most of this can be done with out removal but its soo much eaiser. why in the world do they make this stuff so hard to remove? Mine isnt to bad bad 4 5/16 bolts and much easier than the 115 but these could have been done with a couple of latches.

Discourages DIYrs.

Like you, I pull them for service (physically impossible to access the compressor strainer except by removing the port chap) and while I cuss the engineer for the front bolt location/access, it's still far better than risking a cross threaded spark plug.

[styler]

The best thing to use is a couple of good 5/16" swivel 1/4" drive sockets.but I still have to add a cuss word or two.