Thread: Actuator issue

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  1. #1
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    Actuator issue

    I have a 2016 Nitro Z20 with a tandem axle trailer. Even new it would jerk on take off and on railroad tracks. Greasing the zerks helped a lot. Those days are gone. It is starting to get on my nerves. Is there a cure or help that I don’t know about or is it time for a new actuator?

  2. Member
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    #2
    I’m not sure exactly which model actuator you have, so I can’t comment on that, but have you made sure there was enough brake fluid in the system and there wasn’t any air? That can cause the clunking.

  3. Member
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    #3
    Bleed the system. Start at the wheel furthest from the MC.

  4. Member
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    #4
    A picture of the actuator or the model would help, but it sounds like it needs to be bled.

  5. Member
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    #5
    If it’s like my friends nitro that’s a couple years newer it’s a tie down brand actuator.

  6. mikesxpress
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    #6
    I consider the surge brakes actuator a 3-5 year consumable item. If you trailer/fish multiple times a week, closer to 3 years and it needs replaced. Not repaired. The actuator takes allot of abuse and it's pretty simple to replace.

  7. Member
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    #7
    This is it.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #8
    Some jerking is inevitable with surge brakes. Low fluid and air in the lines are common things that make it worse. You may need to add fluid as the pads wear since the master cylinder has a small capacity. Another thing to look for is slop in pins on the hitch or tongue.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
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  9. Member fishnfireman's Avatar
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by CatFan View Post
    Some jerking is inevitable with surge brakes. Low fluid and air in the lines are common things that make it worse. You may need to add fluid as the pads wear since the master cylinder has a small capacity. Another thing to look for is slop in pins on the hitch or tongue.

  10. Member
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    #10
    I have the same model, definitely bleed the brakes, cost 5 bucks for a small bottle and the fluid is probably already discolored and needs to be replaced. pump short 1/2 inch strokes to bleed the master cylinder, then proceed to bleed the system with longer strokes of push rod. When done bleeding and after you closed the bleeders and filled the reservoir, cap on tight, give a hard solid pump with screwdriver to pressurize system.

  11. Member
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    #11
    I would flush the whole system, it easy if you have an air compressor and this Harbor Frieght pneumatic bleeder.


    https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...der-92924.html

  12. Member wmitch2's Avatar
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    #12
    It may not be the actuator, it could be slop/play in the receiver. Grab the hitch and shake/push/pull on it and see how much it moves. This may help you.

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  13. Member
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    #13
    Mine has had a clunk for as long as I can remember. Just had it replaced along with new disc brakes and new flex lines. No more clunk. UFP 60 I think is my model number.

    NoCAL
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  14. Member
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    #14
    Here is something to try. If you have disc brakes grease the slides and pins just in case they are binding and are not releasing properly.

  15. Member
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    #15
    My procraft trailer was doing this. Turns out the master cylinder has a super tiny leak and brakes were more or less dry . It would clunk hard like I kept getting rear-ended. Bled the brakes and it went away. Bleeding surge brakes is a PIA if you ask me. Couldn't get my vacuum bleeder to work on it like on a vehicle. Had to have the old lady run the screw driver while I ran the bleeders. Once I got some pressure built up took maybe 10 minutes.

  16. Member
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    #16
    Bleeding surge brakes is a PIA if you ask me. Couldn't get my vacuum bleeder to work on it like on a vehicle. Had to have the old lady run the screw driver while I ran the bleeders. Once I got some pressure built up took maybe 10 minutes.


    http://www.speedbleeder.com/


    Bleed them by yourself.

    Also makes it easier if you need to bleed them on a road trip.

  17. Member
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    #17
    I found a trailer repair shop. They called their distributor who is 90% sure that the master cylinder is the problem. He has one on order.

  18. Member
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    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by MikeF View Post
    http://www.speedbleeder.com/


    Bleed them by yourself.

    Also makes it easier if you need to bleed them on a road trip.
    God made mechanics so I wouldn’t have to learn how to do that kind of thing.

  19. Member
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    #19
    I know your getting it fixed, my Shorelander surge brakes have a rubber stop inside the tongue that wears and will cause this type of clunk. I thought my master cylinder was bad after I tore it apart found the rubber stop completely gone.