93 Fast Strike Won't Fire

[Russell406]

I've developed an issue w/ my 93 fast strike J150GLETG not starting. It has always fired right up. Wednesday night I rebuilt the vapor separator and primer solenoid, took it out Thursday and fired right up and ran w/o issues. Took the boat down Saturday and it would not fire. I thought maybe the cranking battery was low so I charged it up and went back out Sunday but still will not fire.

In the past 3 months I've rebuilt the carbs w/ new bowls and all the fixings and did the link and sync w/ the easy timer. I've rebuilt the vapor separator and primer solenoid as mentioned above. I've replaced the spark plugs (QL77JC4) gapped at .03 and put in new cdi spark plug leads.

I've first checked the flywheel when engaging the ignition. It seems to spin fast right when I turn the key and then slows down until I let go of the key. I took a quick video and was hoping to get some feedback on if that was normal? Video at this link. https://photos.app.goo.gl/t8wMqx9NNpWYodXX8

If that seems normal in the video what should I check next? I have a service manual and am just wondering where to head next? I'm assuming I should check spark? I have a spark plug light although it's a shitty one from harbor freight. Is there a specific type of one I should use?

The powerpack and the Stator?

The optical sensor? Can the easy timer check the optical sensor for proper function?

Thanks in advanced.

[ChampioNman]

You set the timing using the EZ timer, the EET plugs into the EZ timer so I'd say it is working. Looking at the video it looks like it is spinning too slow. They need to spin at least 250 RPM to generate spark.

[dbirkett]

I'd start by holding a spark plug against a cylinder head bolt and see if you get spark while cranking. If no, first I would check the kill switch circuit, and then do the DVA tests on the stator while cranking. If you're getting the correct voltage to the powerpack, and the kill switch is open, and you still don't have spark, I would look at replacing powerpack and optical sensor.

[Russell406]

Thanks Dbirkett. I'll give that a try. What does DVA stand for?

Thanks again.

Edit: NVM I found it on the CDI troubleshooting guide.

[dbirkett]

You will need either a DVA adapter to take the measurements using a standard digital multimeter, or in my case, a Fluke model 87V, which has a peak-min-max mode. A DMM with just a regular min-max mode will not measure peak voltage, which is needed to diagnose an outboard stator

[Russell406]

I went out last night on a hunch and it fired up. I didn't pump the bulb or prime it at all. Now I'm wondering if I'm flooding the engine when I'm pumping the bulb and priming.

Is it normal for a small amount of fuel to leak out of the carb throats when the engine is trimmed around halfway up or more after pumping the bulb/priming? I've noticed this from time to time. Maybe I didn't get my floats perfectly level when I rebuilt the carbs.

[ChampioNman]

Did you happen to install the white nylon washers under the needle valve seat? If so they aren't used on your motor and will effect the float drop setting.

[Russell406]

No I omitted the white washer. Fuel doesn't leak out when I have it trimmed in running position and it's only a small amount when trimmed up. Not sure if I can force fuel out by over pressurizing.