No power in gear….

[Cobra96188]

Do you have the throttle lever or foot feed held wide open when adjusting the full advance timing? Engine not running, of course.

No sir. I was going by the included instructions

[Cobra96188]

But I did have my son mash the hotfoot to the floor while I watched. I moved the outer detent forward and rearward and the light never went off in either direction.

[SEAHORSE]

Double check the timing pointer positioning to be spot on at " TDC ". Using the factory timing tool is the only super accurate way.

Remove plugs and turn timing wheel to about 15° BTC. Have someone hold the throttle open. With timing tool connected, slowly turn the crankshaft clockwise and watch the light as it approaches 20°. Repeat until timing is correct.

[Cobra96188]

Double check the timing pointer positioning to be spot on at " TDC ". Using the factory timing tool is the only super accurate way.

Remove plugs and turn timing wheel to about 15° BTC. Have someone hold the throttle open. With timing tool connected, slowly turn the crankshaft clockwise and watch the light as it approaches 20°. Repeat until timing is correct.

I will double check it tonight. Thank you.

[Cobra96188]

Ok. Compression gauge hose with shcrader valve removed, plugs out, rotated by hand until pressure on thumb. Unscrewed hose and stuck a screwdriver in on top of piston and slowly rotated until the sweet spot before piston goes back down. Pointer on wheel is dead on TDC. Did as you said start at 15 BTD and slowly rotated around and light went off real close to 20 degrees but it was ATC. With throttle open. I presume that’s the trailing edge of the window for #1. Appears to be same distance(or real close) between the 2 3 4 5 6 marks on the wheel. And that’s with both timing tabs set in the center. With the EZ timer connected(don’t have access to the real OMC tool) all the lights go on/off as it states. Don’t know. Before whatever happened I was turning 52-5300 rpm with 22 Raker. With 24 Raker was about 5000. This on a 18 1/2 Cobra. No fuel leaks -carb bowls etc. new dual stack fuel pump, I’ve been pre-mix for a couple yrs now since VRO pump pooped. 110 compression on all holes. The correct Champion plugs. I’ve owned the boat for 6 years or so but my wife’s uncle bought it new. I’ve probably put more hrs on it than he ever did. It’s a 96 model. Up until the the rectifier flamed out a year and half ago it was perfect. Since then I haven’t gotten a full season without something and don’t really trust to go on long run. Before the fire I’d run half tank one way and never think about getting back. If this doesn’t change something I may be looking at a fuel issue from tank to the bubble, from bubble to motor is “new” the last few years. I’m just baffled- ran great, starter fried, put new starter on and now 2500 rpm max under load and last time out barely got on the trailer. I’ve got a small lake about 20 mins from the house I think I’ll go dunk her in after work tomorrow and see what happens. I’ve worked for Chrysler since 92 pulling wrenches so I know how the “ever since you did …, this doesn’t work”. Maybe it’s a coincidence but dang it’s aggravating. Thanks for everyone’s help by the way. Fixed or not I’ve learned a lot. I will be back good or bad tomorrow evening.

[SEAHORSE]

I have to ask, you do know that #1 cylinder is the upper starboard one, not the port side, right? Just want to make sure.

[Cobra96188]

I have to ask, you do know that #1 cylinder is the upper starboard one, not the port side, right? Just want to make sure.

Yessir