No power in gear….

[Cobra96188]

Well the old thing is acting up again. J150GLEDB. 150 Fastrike. About a month ago we spent the weekend on the water and boat ran great. The last day the starter gave up. Got her home and replaced the starter. The motor starts fine and idles fine but when in gear and try to get up she’s gutless. 2500rpm or so is it and just pushes water. I did find a fuel leak at the fuel pump so I replaced it. Figured it was time any way. Non VRO. I’ve been pre mixing for a few years. Any way —what I’m the world could I have done by replacing the starter to cause this? Or just a coincidence? About the only thing I can do on the water is I used my spark checker to make sure all 6 are firing. Oh and I unplugged the shift interruptor switch. Stator, rectifier power pack, coils and optical sensor all new 2 yrs ago. Stumped. I do have the factory manual.

[ChampioNman]

Did you use an Amazon fuel pump? Dual stacked pump? What kind of fuel pump did you install?

[Cobra96188]

No not Amazon. I left out 1 important note….it was doing this BEFORE I replaced the pump. Was doing it with old original pump. Not sure what you mean by dual stack. I tried to attach a picture of the pump but it won’t let me. I had to take the flywheel cover off because the starter drive gear got crooked somehow and I’m wondering if I got my timing jacked up some how. She was running great up until the starter quit.

[Cobra96188]

Was on the water posting this. Thing didn’t even have enough mustard to get on the trailer.

[Simply_M]

If it was running great until you replaced the starter,which required the removal of the flywheel, I would be rechecking that the flywheel is on the shaft in the proper position and timing.

[ChampioNman]

If it was running great until you replaced the starter,which required the removal of the flywheel, I would be rechecking that the flywheel is on the shaft in the proper position and timing.

Reread his post. He didn't pull the flywheel just the flywheel cover to access the starter drive gear. 60* motors use a gear reduction starter/bendix.

[ChampioNman]

No not Amazon. I left out 1 important note….it was doing this BEFORE I replaced the pump. Was doing it with old original pump. Not sure what you mean by dual stack. I tried to attach a picture of the pump but it won’t let me. I had to take the flywheel cover off because the starter drive gear got crooked somehow and I’m wondering if I got my timing jacked up some how. She was running great up until the starter quit.

Dual stacked premix pump for V-6 60* motors.

[SEAHORSE]

Are all 6 throttle plates opening up fully when the throttle is moved to wide open?

[Cobra96188]

Yes that looks exactly like the one I put on.

[Cobra96188]

Are all 6 throttle plates opening up fully when the throttle is moved to wide open?

I haven’t visibly looked but it’ll rev high in neutral with a throttle snap. I read the sticky to
make sure the throttle roller setting is correct.

[Cobra96188]

Can I check the timing with a regular timing light?

[ChampioNman]

Yes.

[Cobra96188]

Ok. That’s my next step I guess. Tonight, just because, I pulled the flywheel off. No goo or signs of stator failure. Flywheel in correct position (role pin makes certain). Put it back together. I do have a hotfoot but the carbs all open fully when depressed. I’ve been pulling wrenches for a living 30 yrs. But…by no means an expert at these. So I went the normal engine first check. Pulled kill switch and screwed my compression gauge hose in to #1 cylinder. Bumped starter and got it at TDC on compression stroke. Timer wheel also shows TDC at the pointer. But I forgot my timing light at work. There’s a sticker left of the pointer that says 20 degrees BTC. I presume that is BEFORE TOP CENTER. Is that loaded-in the water? The manual is a bit confusing. Also it says with a timing light at each wire should only show that cylinder number on timing wheel. Are the cylinder numbers 123 starboard 456 port or something else? Thanks already for the help. It stinks because it’s 30-45 mins to the closest place to dunk it for a real test. I know muffs do nothing but supply water.

[Cobra96188]

Sat it’s out of time. How to advance/retard? No distributor and book keeps saying use the OMC tool. I guess I’ll need to do the link/sink too later.

[Nordmann]

'Can I check the timing with a regular timing light?'

1996 model with optical ignition.

To the best of my knowledge a timing light and even strong sunlight should be avoided to prevent damage to 'Optical Sensor'.

[ChampioNman]

Starboard side 1,3,5 port side 2,4,6 facing rear of motor move the timing light plug lead in this order #1 the move over to #2 then back to #3 etc. Won't hurt the EET as it is on the back side of the timing disk and the pointer is in the front. The 20* is for wide open throttle timing best done with a test wheel. Idle timing is 6* ATDC. An Ignition analyzer should be used or an EZ timer that is an aftermarket tool sold on Ebay.

[omcforever]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/18545184469...wAAOxyn9BRaadt

[Cobra96188]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/18545184469...wAAOxyn9BRaadt

Thanks. Just ordered 1. ��

[Cobra96188]

Well I the EZ timer was delivered Saturday, but didn’t get my hands on it until today. Just used it and it’s pretty straight forward. However I do have one question. My TDC timing was off about 6 degrees. I followed the instructions, marked A B And C true TDC. I moved the pointer as stated in included instructions. My question is…when adjusting idle and WOT timing, 6 degrees and 20 degrees, the idle speed does like it says. I moved the detent after putting timing wheel at 6 degrees, moved detent forward until CYL light went out. Then holding spark cam wide open and timing wheel at 20 degrees it says move outside detent rearward until CYL light goes out. Well I’ve got it as far back as it will go and lightimage.jpg hasn’t went out.Something wrong or what normalimage.jpgimage.jpg

[SEAHORSE]

Do you have the throttle lever or foot feed held wide open when adjusting the full advance timing? Engine not running, of course.