95 Johnson 150 Rectifier Question

[gqneon]

I bought a 95 Javelin with a 95 Fast Strike 150 on it. The tach didn’t work and it seems like the cranking battery always took a beating after a day fishing. I replaced the rectifier with a CDI-branded rectifier which does still have the purple wire, but I noticed the red wire with the ring terminal was originally run to a ground bolt. Is the red supposed go to ground or should it go to a positive?

Thanks

[Nordmann]

'I replaced the rectifier with a CDI '

Don't understand this. You can't replace a rectifier/regulator with a CDI capacitor discharge ignition unit?

[ChampioNman]

'I replaced the rectifier with a CDI '

Don't understand this. You can't replace a rectifier/regulator with a CDI capacitor discharge ignition unit?

CDI manufactured voltage regulator.

Red should be connected to the starter solenoid positive post.

[SEAHORSE]

'I replaced the rectifier with a CDI '

Don't understand this. You can't replace a rectifier/regulator with a CDI capacitor discharge ignition unit?

CDI Electronics is a large aftermarket ignition and electrical parts company.

Two guys started out in the mid '80s taking apart and rebuilding auto ECUs and branched into the marine field where now they are huge in the number of items produced. They also have annual ignition training schools and a call-in help line. They also designed and manufacture a universal diagnostic software program that works with all the major outboards and inboard engines. In addition they publish a CD ignition troubleshooting guide. Many of their products come with a 2-year warranty. They also have a division that repairs FICHT EMMs.

https://www.cdielectronics.com/

[omcforever]

CDI Electronics is a large aftermarket ignition and electrical parts company.

Two guys started out in the mid '80s taking apart and rebuilding auto ECUs and branched into the marine field where now they are huge in the number of items produced. They also have annual ignition training schools and a call-in help line. They also designed and manufacture a universal diagnostic software program that works with all the major outboards and inboard engines. In addition they publish a CD ignition troubleshooting guide. Many of their products come with a 2-year warranty. They also have a division that repairs FICHT EMMs.

https://www.cdielectronics.com/

Informative read..

[gqneon]

Thanks - I did mean CDI electronics company, not capacitive discharge. Thank you for the clarification and confirmation for the red cable. I bought the boat with that cable affixed block lug ground next to the starter - so it should actually go to positive side of the starter solenoid post? I don’t know why it’s rigged this way - but it seemed odd a red was run to a ground to me.

[SEAHORSE]

since the regulator was running with a direct short to ground, it would be advisable to remove the flywheel and inspect for any magnet damage and the stator condition, such as pools of melted insulation from the windings, even though it may "ohm out" OK.

[gqneon]

The bugger of this story? I just replaced the stator because it had evidence of having melted down. I’ll test it today and take it down if need be. The boat had a piston slap a month after I bought it and I just finished rebuilding carbs and putting a new powerhead on it yesterday. This would explain a lot - and means someone caused me a heap of trouble with an errant wire placement long long ago. Thanks for the suggestion on that. I e only had the boat a month or two and it’s been apart for mechanical failures since. The good news? There’s not much left to replace at this point.

[gqneon]

I pulled the flywheel off and looked at the stator and everything appears normal. I ran the boat for a couple hours today and when I put it on the charger, it took a couple hours to top it off. I wish I had a way to know if it was charging while running - I thought maybe the voltage would show an increase while rpm’s were up (on my graph) but I didn’t notice that. I am wondering though if the stator or the new rectifier are still good after finding that wire was run to a ground before.

i pulled the book and confirmed that red goes to positive just like you said - and I believed you - but I realized I had a wiring diagram today and was able to see it in writing there too which was a nice find.

I put an ohm meter to the two yellow wires of the stator and came up like .7 ohms, I remember testing it before install and I think it was like 1.5ohms. I don’t know if that test is a reliable indicator or not. I have a basic multimeter but maybe I need a better one for stator/rectifier testing. Any suggestions?

[ChampioNman]

If you don't have a service manual go to the CDI website they have a good troubleshooting manual with all the tests for a 60* motor.

[SEAHORSE]

A regular ohmmeter is normally not that accurate on low resistance readings unless it has a special scale for that.

Next time you take the boat out, connect a digital voltmeter to the battery posts and monitor the voltage throughout the voyage to see if the readings remain above 13V.

[gqneon]

Ok thanks guys. I have a book and talked to CDI. I did a diode test on rectifier and it shows continuity on one wire both ways. I guess that’s pretty easy math. Buying a second rectifier - but lessons learned on old boats (new to me) are valuable. Thanks all. I’ll keep you posted, thanks for the advice!

[gqneon]

Still chasing gremlins on this boat… I read somewhere that new regulators have the purple wire removed now but the CDI ones I get have purple still. Is there one without the purple wire I could try lurking out there somewhere that you’re aware of?