Wear ring removal

[RangerJim]

What is the easiest way to remove wear ring from spindle?

[lmoore]

Dremel and small cutoff wheel. Score to just through or just short of cutting through and then hammer and chisel or sharp screwdriver. If you knick the metal underneath, clean up with emory cloth before installing new.

[RangerJim]

Dremel and small cutoff wheel. Score to just through or just short of cutting through and then hammer and chisel or sharp screwdriver. If you knick the metal underneath, clean up with emory cloth before installing new.

Ok thanks. That’s basically how I did the last ones a couple of years ago.

[possume22]

I always just put a pipe wrench on them and spin them off.

[RangerJim]

I always just put a pipe wrench on them and spin them off.

Hadn’t thought of that! Will give it a try

[fishnfireman]

Hadn’t thought of that! Will give it a try

Let us know how that works..

[dabassking]

Be very careful with a cutoff wheel. I ready plenty of posts on here that said they “pop right off” once you score through them. That was not my experience and I scored the spindle pretty good under the wear ring before realizing it.

[fishnfireman]

maybe you're like me and need thicker glasses.
I've done several with a cutoff wheel with no issues. Even if you score the spindle the new sleeve will cover it.
I'm curious to see how the pipe wrench works.. Didn't work for me.

[KennyVexus]

Take a ball peen hammer and hit it a few times to dimple it. then hit it with a glancing blow to spin it. It will pop right off. Just don't go all Thor on it.

[RangerJim]

No good trying a pipe wrench to remove the wear ring. Wound up doing as suggested by lmoore and others and using a dremel with a cutoff wheel. Scored it almost to the point of going through then took a cold chisel for the remainder.

[KennyVexus]

This is much larger and an exaggeration of what you are working with but this is the technique:

[RangerJim]

This is much larger and an exaggeration of what you are working with but this is the technique:

Will have to try that the next time I have to remove one of these. thanks!

[electritek]

Have worked on lots of trailer for myself and friends. Industrial Millwright here, If you can feel a groove in the wear ring, simply seat the replacement seal 1/8" deeper in the cavity. There is no shoulder for depth, everyone seats them flush. If you got an arbor press just install your seal 1/8" deeper and it will ride on different area of sleeve.

[Team Mud]

Ive never done one and hope I never have to, but has anyone ever tried putting alittle heat to the wear sleeve? I'm thinking if you get the o ring underneath warmed up , it may come off easier?

[fishnfireman]

Have worked on lots of trailer for myself and friends. Industrial Millwright here, If you can feel a groove in the wear ring, simply seat the replacement seal 1/8" deeper in the cavity. There is no shoulder for depth, everyone seats them flush. If you got an arbor press just install your seal 1/8" deeper and it will ride on different area of sleeve.

Have done that many times when there was no wear sleeve. works fine.
When available--- I'll change a sleeve

[lmoore]

I always dreaded doing them until I actually did them. Very easy to do as long as you take your time and do it right the first time, the fixing of mistakes is harder than the changing of the sleeve. For hitting them back on, I did them with the old inner bearing and PVC and it worked but it took a lot of messing around and making sure to get it fully seated back on. The last one I did the spring, I went to the local hardware store and made a tool from a galvanized pipe coupling, short bit of pipe, and a cap. I took a wear sleeve with me and found a size that fit the sleeve perfectly, I think it was actually a 1 1/4" female threaded coupling for my 1.62" OD sleeve. Made it 1000x easier. Just tapped them on with light taps on the hammer and it drove on nice and smooth.

[Bob G.]

I always dreaded doing them until I actually did them. Very easy to do as long as you take your time and do it right the first time, the fixing of mistakes is harder than the changing of the sleeve. For hitting them back on, I did them with the old inner bearing and PVC and it worked but it took a lot of messing around and making sure to get it fully seated back on. The last one I did the spring, I went to the local hardware store and made a tool from a galvanized pipe coupling, short bit of pipe, and a cap. I took a wear sleeve with me and found a size that fit the sleeve perfectly, I think it was actually a 1 1/4" female threaded coupling for my 1.62" OD sleeve. Made it 1000x easier. Just tapped them on with light taps on the hammer and it drove on nice and smooth.

I did the same thing except that I took the inner bearing piece, minus the cage, and found a pipe coupler that fit it. Then got a piece of pipe and end cap.