Crank no Start 2005 DI 115

[Tormoz]

Good evening. I am an avid boater who has never owned an Evinrude before. I have lots to learn and a few questions. I downloaded the service manual, purchased a diagnostic port and program which is still in the mail, and now need some guidance:

Purchased a 2005 DI 115 with a no start. (Model E115FPLSOD)

Compression 120 all four cylinders
New fuel filter, primer bulbs, plugs
Spark present, will run for one second on starting fluid
Fuel lift pump works
High pressure pump turns on when KOEO, seems to build pressure.
Took off all four injectors, cleand the tips from carbon, two had no fuel residue when tips were pulled and spark plugs were dry
Fuel has no oil in it
Checked voltage to oil injector and continuity in wire, it all checks out. Injector does not click, nor is there any oil coming from any lines when cranking. Both oil primer and return lines are clear and functioning per manual.
Injector pump ohm 1.1

Codes 38, 39, 51, 52 flashing through check engine


At this point, I understand I have two bad injectors and a failed oil pump. Is this correct?

There is a plastic "T" that is sealed off and am unsure how to put a gauge on it. I am worried about removing it due to the age of the hose ( it seems formed with quick-disconnects)

Is there a way to rebuild the injection pump? Or should I replace with a used one? New is north of $1800 USD!
It looks like Evinrude used the same injection pump on many different systems, differing only in the upper "gang valve" assembly that disperses oil to the bearings and fuel system. Are they interchangable?

Thank you for your time.

[SEAHORSE]

If the check engine light is flashing with the key ON, then recently the engine either "ran-away" or was revved up with no load on it and the throttle suddenly pulled back. It is a safety feature called code 57. It has to be cleared by a dealer or with the factory diagnostic software.

[Tormoz]

If the check engine light is flashing with the key ON, then recently the engine either "ran-away" or was revved up with no load on it and the throttle suddenly pulled back. It is a safety feature called code 57. It has to be cleared by a dealer or with the factory diagnostic software.

The flashing is the self-diagnostics system that you can use to retrieve codes without a scanner. The check engine just stays on after you crank it and these were the codes that pulled up. Sorry for the confusion.

[Tormoz]

Update:
VST taken apart, cleaned, broken float inside repaired. Noticed fuel line and return were swapped around (unsure why BRP didnt make them different diameters, just another fun discovery from the prev owner working on things ). Cleaned the whole oil system as all the fine nozzles and ports werent allowing oil to pass through. The motor started up after a few cranks and idled perfectly. Waiting on XD100 and diag software to show up, clear codes, new impeller kit, and we should be in business. Oil system requires a DIY to understand how it works before money gets thrown at the motors. As long as there arn't any more hiccups I don't see this engine failing me anytime soon; I actually like this two-stroke design.

[Tormoz]

To complete this thread:

Oil injector fault, tore it apart and cleaned, cleaned manifold, cleared all old oil out and replaced with XD100, still no return. Replaced with $350 unit off ebay, fixed.
New water pump
Motor starts in two cranks, no smoke, no codes.
Thank you for all the replies

[Tormoz]

05340E22-3412-4120-9E79-FFAE2088D6BF.jpegUpdate: motor caught on fire and seems to be totaled. RIP. Currently debating finding a parts engine and swapping all the melted parts. Will post photos once I am home. Unsure what happened: it wouldn’t get on plane once out of the dock, backfired which blew the cowling latches off, and melted most of the backside fuel lines and wiring near injectors. Ecm looks fine. Less than 150
hours on this engine as well. Lessons learned: 5 gallon buckets take over when the fire extinguisher runs out and new trolling motors need an “oh sh!t” button

[Bighare2]

WOW! Good thing nobody got hurt - correct? Obviously you had an external fuel leak. Maybe leaking from the VST?

[Tormoz]

WOW! Good thing nobody got hurt - correct? Obviously you had an external fuel leak. Maybe leaking from the VST?

Unsure from where. Most damage above VST and next to fuel/water separator. Am looking to rebuild this one as it is the cheapest option by far. New outboards running north of $12,000.00

[Tormoz]

Update: bought a 1998 FICHT for deals and swapped a few things over. Went to start and no power to VST. According to the manual there is an internal issue with the EMM. Who do you guys reccomend for EMM repair?

[ChampioNman]

DFI, MCS

[Tormoz]

DFI, MCS

Thank you.

[SEAHORSE]

Update: bought a 1998 FICHT for deals and swapped a few things over.

What parts from the 1998 FICHT swapped over to your 2005 115hp? Injectors, ECU, and even operating voltages are different

[Tormoz]

What parts from the 1998 FICHT swapped over to your 2005 115hp? Injectors, ECU, and even operating voltages are different

Fuel lines, oil lines, intake, some odds and ends. It made sense fiscally and they have brass injector connectors in those years. Everything else will be going up for sale, as there is no use for them.

[Tormoz]

Update: Emm checked out good. Boat runs great except 2-2.2k where I have a “popcorn” stumble. Two things I think will fix this issue: clocking my plugs (forgot to do this and just hit the water) and send injectors in for injector rebuild. This way I’ve done just about everything I can to refresh the motor. Any recommendations for Ficht rebuilds in the greater Seattle-Portland area? Also I need to update this post with photos!