I'm pretty sure they started it the wires and built the boat around them or they have a trained rat that does it.
I'm pretty sure they started it the wires and built the boat around them or they have a trained rat that does it.
I pulled the trolling motor foot pedal and access plate there, that's basically a no go, how is the access from the tm plug plate
It's not that bad on a P2 and way better than a lot of other boats (Ranger I'm talking to you). I've had a 2007 P2 and now run a P4, both are real similar. I never use any of the existing PVC runs, too much already in them. I use the fiberglass rods that screw together and orange weed wacker line. Never takes me more than probably 30 minutes to run new wires. I spent 3 hours on my buddies Z519 just to get the wire for the jackplate blinker up to the console, I was so close to just cutting a hole in the boat.
From the back to the console take off the vent so you have a straighter shot, tape the weed wacker line to the rod and push it through to the hole under the console where all of the other wiring comes out. For me it's just shy of 3 sections of pole. Un-tape it and have someone hold it while you pull the pole back.
From the console to the front is actually easier because for a lot of it you're just going through the starboard rod box. If you don't have an access panel under your trolling motor pedal it's worth it to cut a hole and put one in.
The weed eater line is brilliant lol, saved me cutting another hole.
No wiring is installed in any model prior to assembly. They are all accessible for us just like you.
Something slightly bigger than a 1.5 inch saw cut hole in front would be beneficial but I made it work
So, you do have a trained rat that pulls the wire through those rod lockers.Originally Posted by Bass Cat Boats
I had the same thought when I started pulling new wire from bilge to bow on the Sabre FTD. “They gotta be pulling this stuff before they put the top cap”. But, it’s actually not hard to follow the routing of the factory wire from bilge to console to front of the driver side rod locker. From that point to the bow is where it takes some ingenuity and patience (and a fiberglass pull rod or fish tape). But, it’s doable. I was really impressed with the quailty and size of the wiring on my 2007 model. Top tier for a 15 year old boat. Just what you’d expect from BassCat. One complaint: Apparently, there was a Coast Guard regulation in those days that required all wiring junctions be completely entombed in electrical tape. Lots and lots and lots of electrical tape. What an absolute joy that was to remove before rewiring the Lowrance power cords. Otherwise, a top notch installation. The rat did a great job.
BassCat Sabre FTD
Mercury 150 Optimax
"It's just fishing"
The way I ended up doing it was I disconnected all existing wires from sonar head unit. I pulled the new wire to the compartment, panoptix has some large connectors. To do this without cutting more holes in the boat I attached weed eater line to the existing ones and marked which ones were the biggest then pushed them back in hull . After getting ducer wire into box which is a large connector I pulled the other wires back. You gotta do biggest to smallest as the hole gets smaller with each wire. A little effort beyond a 1.5 inch saw cut hole would be a kind thing to do for your customers. It's pretty safe bet that guys are gonna add, edit, upgrade electronics occasionally.
And add a grommet to the hole. Those are pretty expensive wires that saw cut hole is sawing on
... when I caught that issue it was through the outer wire and real close to getting into the wires itself
Lots of good suggestions. On my 02 Classic, I cut a 6 inch hole under the Ultrex pedal and installed a screw in hatch lid. I then was able to run wires and install a BBT dual mount, 2 Helixes, MegaLive, Mega 360, heading sensor, switches for 360 and ML, and ran the Ipilot cable. It was much easier once I had a large access point.
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