Advice on bleeding brakes

[Tailhooker]

2015 Ranger Trail dual axle surge brakes. The plumbing for the brake line runs into and then out of the first three calipers and it's only on the last (left front) that has a bleeder valve. Watched youtuber "Asian Guy" to get my info on how to do this.

So as I stroke the actuator 10-15 times, it clicks and the level goes down in the reservoir. If I very slightly open the bleeder valve, fluid pumps out and will fill my bottle which has the hose submerged in fluid. Weird thing is, when I close the bleeder valve and go back to pumping, the force required to stroke the actuator doesn't get more difficult like it did in Asian Guy's video. In fact, I can pump and watch the fluid level go down a bit, but once I stop pumping, it starts to fill back up, almost overflowing.

Any ideas what's going on here? Maybe I just need to pump a lot more but I've repeated the 10-15 pump cycle at least a dozen times. Maybe my actuator is bad? How would I check its function? I'm doing this solo.

Also, I bought a $45 contraption similar to the MytiVac but have't used it yet. I figured I'd try the pump-fluid-through technique before the suck-it-through way.

Thanks in advance

[gdi]

I have someone push down on the coupler 1 time then I open the bleed valve. I then close it and tell them to bring the coupler up and then push down again when they have it down again I open the valve. I repeat this as needed.

[Menacer]

I don't know what you have but I have an A-60 actuator. I would assume it would be the same process just like a car.

You have to pump and hold the piston down then open the bleeder while the piston is still compressed. Next close the bleeder and then release piston. Repeat until there isn't any more air bubbles. Top off fluid as needed and do not let it go empty or you will need to start again.

The stroking of the pistons a few times is just to prime the master cylinder. That is done with the bleeder valve closed.

[Tailhooker]

Thanks for the responses. Gonna try the suction method today because after contacting Ranger, that's what they recommend. They sent me a pdf on their procedure saying it's very difficult to do correctly on their Ranger Trail, dual axle, 1 bleeder valve trailer unless you use a vacuum. I'll report back with results.

[jtts]

Can you post rangers directions?

[DewRonInc]

I have a 2.5 gallon mityvac that attaches to air compressor and also a pressure bleeder, attaches to master and u put 10 to 15 lbs on it, hand pump, then go back there and bleed, it hold two gallons of dot 3

[Tailhooker]

Man I tried to get what Ranger sent me but can’t get it from my email to this format. Any suggestions? Otherwise I’ll just PM it to ya

[clayshooter]

Man I tried to get what Ranger sent me but can’t get it from my email to this format. Any suggestions? Otherwise I’ll just PM it to ya

I would like to see this also. If you don’t mind sending it.!!

[KP1923]

My Vexus 4 axle trailer has the same setup as yours, with only 1 bleeder valve. I use this kit from Harbor Freight, and have not had a problem since. Mityvac probably does the same thing...just without the air compressor. Bottom line is that the "vacuum assist" seems to be the less labor intensive way to do it....IMHO.

https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...der-92924.html

[Tailhooker]

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[Tailhooker]

Very crude, but got it done. wish we could just drag and drop to post attachments

[Blair B]

If you have an air compressor, this is the easiest way to bleed the brakes. I had an extra master cylinder cap for an A-60, so I drilled a 1/2” hole through it, that way I could use the filler bottle that comes in the HF kit.


https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...der-92924.html

[Tailhooker]

Followed the above instructions and got all the air out of the lines. Myti Vac was the ticket to use the suck-it-thru method of getting all the air out of the lines. However, the clunking at the actuator moving full travel back and forth on my stop and go’s was still present. So after a few phone calls and lots of YouTube videos, I just ordered a whole new actuator. It’ll be here in a week. I’ll report back in a week or so and let y’all know if that fixed my problem (no braking due to air in the system and clunking while towing).

I learned that the most likely suspect is probably a caliper repair a year ago. The brakes were never bled properly and that has caused my actuator to wear out prematurely. The tell tale signs were the screwdriver method of pushing fluid thru the system to bleed were unsuccessful and fluid seeping back into the reservoir when not actually pumping with the screwdriver. Add that to the clunking that appeared shortly after the caliper repair and is now still present after all the air is out of the system, the culprit has got to be the actuator plunger in the master cylinder.

[billnorman1]

Could be. Have you checked the ball mount to receiver tube for excessive clearance? I drilled and tapped mine for a 5/16" bolt and nut to keep pressure on the mount it is a good permanent fix to excess clearance.

[Tailhooker]

I installed one of those clamps that bolt over the ball hitch and the receiver to prevent that source of clunking. Fixed that problem pretty well. But you’re right, they sound similar. Have a good weekend.