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  1. #1
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    A-60 brake actuator shock absorber replacement

    I'm going to replace the shock absorber that hooks up to the A-60 brake actuator on my 2003 champion 203's trailer. Has anyone done this job before? I'm trying to figure out how much of a pain it will be. Will I have to remove the entire assembly from the tongue, or can I swap it in place?

  2. Member
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    Jun 2020
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    Mt. Juliet, TN
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    #2
    Do a YouTube search, for the UFP A-60 actuator. There should be a repair video for it.

  3. mikesxpress
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    #3
    My past experience is that replacement of the entire actuator is allot easier and eliminates the issues of other worn parts.

  4. Member gdi's Avatar
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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by mikesxpress View Post
    My past experience is that replacement of the entire actuator is allot easier and eliminates the issues of other worn parts.
    ^^^ this

  5. Member 06 SB's Avatar
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    #5
    I have done it and overall very easy. The hardest part is lining up all the pieces when trying to put it all back together. To make it MUCH easier, measure the diameter of the drift pins then buy wood dowels in the same diameter. Cut to length so that they are exactly the width of the coupler (not the trailer frame). This will allow you to keep everything aligned during installation. Drift out the wood dowels with the metal pins then have a beer.

    USN Retired
    2020 Basscat Caracal
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  6. Member
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    Apr 2021
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    #6
    It’s not too bad. I rebuilt my 1994 actuator over the winter. The hardest part was getting the pins out. I sprayed pb blaster on them and worked them a little over several days as I was poking around in the garage. Then more pb blaster and whacked the sh*t out of them when I was ready to get them out. A press would’ve helped. After the actuator is out of the tongue, it’s not too hard nor time consuming to replace whatever parts you need. Probably should replace the pins.

  7. Member
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    #7
    I did the shock, and it didn't really seem to help that much...still have a clunk...had the brakes bled, still clunking...I think I am going to go for a new actuator.
    2016 Ranger 1850 LS Reata / Merc 150 4s / SmartCraft / Lowrance HDS Carbon SS3D

  8. Member
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    Jan 2019
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    Houma La.
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    #8
    My A-60 actuator clunked since brand new but I changed the shock anyway and it still clunked! So I changed the way I accelerate from stop to a gradual take off and this helps things to go smoother.

  9. Member 61Woody's Avatar
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by MichaelJ3 View Post
    I did the shock, and it didn't really seem to help that much...still have a clunk...had the brakes bled, still clunking...I think I am going to go for a new actuator.
    Same here, replaced the whole assembly and still had 90% of the clunk I had before. I think if they are not leaking that is just how they are.
    21 Lund 1775 Impact XS 21 Merc 115 Pro XS

  10. Member
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    Nov 2020
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    #10
    Not trying to go off topic.

    I replaced the brake fluid and that alone helped the clunking. The trailer is only three years old. There might have been some air in the system.

  11. Member
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    Oct 2013
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    #11
    If you are thinking of going to the trouble of pulling the actuator and replacing the shock just replace the whole thing and be done with it. That way you know what you got! Just went through the same deal.
    2020 Caymas CX21 Pro
    Mercury 250 Pro XS
    Serial# 2B686100

  12. Member Rangerdic's Avatar
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by mikesxpress View Post
    My past experience is that replacement of the entire actuator is allot easier and eliminates the issues of other worn parts.
    Bingo...... This would be my suggestion.
    Retired 2022...Ranger 2011 Z520, OptiMax 250 1B822149, 8" Bob's Jack-plate, Helix 12si / Helix12di, Duel 12' Talon's, Ultrex 112 i-Pilot Link, Mega 360 and Bravo XS 25.
    At ~400 hours had injectors clean and calibrated by INTEGRITY Injection (by
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