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  1. #1
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    Stator resistance

    Johnson Faststrike 150. J150GLEDB. Just curious about the correct stator resistance. My engine just quit Saturday while fishing. Was running great, until it wasn’t. It just died. Then while cranking it was real sluggish. I think I’ve found the cranking issue- the ground stud for the starter solenoid is loose and wobbly in the actual starter. I got towed back but it did crank enough to start 1 time but my gauge only read 12.5v and as soon as I touched the hotfoot it shut off. New starter on the way but I figured I’d check other stuff. Stator, rectifier, power pack, coils, plugs and optical sensor replaced about a year and half ago. I do have the actual OMC manual. The stator looks good, no smell or goo. Flywheel magnets look ok. My question- the stator is NOT an OMC. Not sure what brand and I know the readings probably differ between manufacturers. The manual says between the 2 yellow wires ( round connector both of these are solid yellow) at any rate my meter continuity is .7. My reading between two wires is .8ohms. The manual says it should read .12 +\- .07 ohms. Should I have continuity between the 2 wires? Does not have continuity to ground on either wire. Battery is disconnected. I’ve looked and looked everything I find is different. Wish I knew what brand was put in at the shop. I don’t know if you can tell just by looking but I do know for sure it’s not OMC.

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    #2
    If the spec is as you wrote it - then the resistance can go as high .19 to as low as .5.
    You are reading .8 so then you are ok

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    #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Bighare2 View Post
    If the spec is as you wrote it - then the resistance can go as high .19 to as low as .5.
    You are reading .8 so then you are ok
    That’s what the manual says. Probably over thinking and second guessing.

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    #4
    0.8 is not between 0.05 and 0.19. Let take a closer look at this.

  5. Moderator SEAHORSE's Avatar
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    #5
    When measuring low resistance components, place your red and black leads together first and read the resistance, then subtract that number from the part's measured resistance.
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by SEAHORSE View Post
    When measuring low resistance components, place your red and black leads together first and read the resistance, then subtract that number from the part's measured resistance.
    Meter continuity-.6 ohms. Stator continuity between the connector wires was I believe .8. So .2 through stator? At that it’s right there at the .19. However, this reading I presume is for the OMC stator. Should I not have continuity through the windings. I’ve confused myself. Need to start this week over or end it real quick

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    #7
    Without knowing what meter you’re using, most relatovely cheap consumer grade meters can be not all that accurate with low resistances.

    Yes, you should have continuity through the windings, which it sounds like you do.

  8. Moderator SEAHORSE's Avatar
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Cobra96188 View Post
    However, this reading I presume is for the OMC stator.


    If you do not have an OMC stator, then it would be best to contact the manufacturer of the one who made yours. Chances are it was produced by CDI Electronics.

    https://www.cdielectronics.com/
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by TiNuts View Post
    Without knowing what meter you’re using, most relatovely cheap consumer grade meters can be not all that accurate with low resistances.

    Yes, you should have continuity through the windings, which it sounds like you do.
    Fluke

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    #10
    I did some digging and found out it is a Jetunit stator. I have never heard of them but I’ve reached out to them for hopefully the correct readings.

  11. Moderator SEAHORSE's Avatar
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    #11
    They sure look very much like CDI products.
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    #12
    I’ve been a technician/shop foreman for a Dodge store for 30 years. Never would I have thought about second guessing myself on a possible electrical problem. Yet here I am. I THINK my measurements are fine and no worries. There’s a little back story to this. June 2020 the rectifier decided to flame out during a tournament. Fast forward to October when I get it back-stator, rectifier, power pack and all coils, plug wires and plugs and carb bases replaced due to heat damage or shorting. 1st time out-get on pad and she shuts off. Like kill switch. Limp around a bit and she runs fine for several trips. Sits through hunting season and about February we’re back out. Then same thing, just about to get on pad and dead. Shuts off like key or kill switch. Turns out the shop didn’t replace the optical sensor. I bought one and replaced it. Nothing but good times since. About June of 21 noticed a little jerking band had a weak transom. Parked it and that was fixed. First few times out this spring it was great, until it wasn’t. Camping last weekend, she ran great for 2 days, headed back to camp and she quit. Tried to crank back up and starter was really dragging. Got home and found the ground stud on starter for solenoid loose and floppy. Took starter off and couldn’t turn by hand. Possibly the problem since the rectifier is connected to the B+ side of the solenoid. At any rate I know it’s an old motor but a good one when everything is right. I guess I’m paranoid of breaking down so I’d rather check everything I can while it’s down. New starter came in today so I guess my weekend project is to get her up and going again. Compression is 110+ on all 6 holes so that’s not an issue.

  13. Moderator SEAHORSE's Avatar
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    #13
    Are you running NGK brand or other than QL78YC plugs gapped to .030" by chance?

    How about the plug wire and coil housing condition - any cracks or arcing?

    RFI can affect the ignition system and give weird symptoms. I've seen engines that intermittently won't start or will kill suddenly, like you experienced, due to the use of wrong sparkplugs. There also should be a sheet metal shield between the coils and the power pack. If that is missing, you can have strange problems, too.
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    #14
    No sir. Champion plugs. Everything is there as you stated should be. The ground stud for starter solenoid was very loose and can barely turn starter by hand. I’ve got the new on but that’s it. Not enough hours in a day. The stator company asked me for a model number. I gave it to them and not a word since. Guess I’ll put it together and see what happens.

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    #15
    Well got the new starter put on and she fired right up and charging as it should. Just need to put it in the water and see what happens. Thanks for the responses.