What are the best / ideal setting for Humminbird Onix Side Imaging?

[MainelySmallmouth]

I realize that the notion that many would say that your Side Imaging settings should vary based on the type of body of water you are on, but I have questions about the following:

* 455/800?
* Sensitivity higher or lower than Contrast?
* Switchfire to Clear Mode or Max Mode?
* Should Sharpness be on or off?
* Are there any other settings that are critical to getting the best Side Imaging detail?
* I swear that my graph is currently showing my port side on the starboard side and vice versa, is this possible?

I spent some time on the water today playing with the settings and I just didn't seem to be making any headway, so any feedback/advice would be GREATLY appreciated.

[TomP.]

The only best settings is what is best in the particular conditions you are experiencing, as bottom changes depth changes changes need to made for best picture. I run Helix units and I have my Enhance up generally all the time and making minor adjustments as the water column changes.

[bobcoy]

Mainly, have you had SI units prior to this? The latest software update is 3.350. Is that what your Onix is? Your experience with SI will determine what answers make make sense to you. If you have not downloaded the Onix manual that would be a place to start. Bob

[Wayne P.]

Mainly, have you had SI units prior to this? The latest software update is 3.350. Is that what your Onix is? Your experience with SI will determine what answers make make sense to you. If you have not downloaded the Onix manual that would be a place to start. Bob

If the ONIX installed software is somewhat current, the manual won't match the unit.
Lots of menu items were changed as well as some functions since the manual was done.
The ONIX was changed to add CHIRP 2D function, then all of the menus were changed to match the SOLIX, then the ONIX got left behind since it could not keep up with SOLIX stuff.

The first generation SOLIX manual would be more useful.

[bobcoy]

I don’t remember the exact sequences, but it seems there were some important fix’s to Onix settings late in the game. I think if he uses the search feature instead of the Last manual it may be more confusing. There are going to be many things with an older product, Especially the way this was done. The Original Solix would help as well.Help here may be his best chance to get some answers from you and others about SI in general as well as Onix specific things.

[MainelySmallmouth]

Still struggling to get my SI displaying information on the screen that I can use to determine bottom composition and targets. Maybe my expectation of being able to see "bottom structure" is too closely tied to pictures of what I have seen displayed on this site and others, and I need to adjust my belief that the best I can do on my graphs is basic images that don't present structure in the image clarity that is truly useful. I guess we can just say it is a work in progress that is continues to leave me feeling like there is something more than I am doing to get better SI returns on my graph.

[bobcoy]

Firstly, Don’t expect Onix to look as good as the current models. However older units were certainly more than adequate to your task. Installation of the transducer is critical. Level and plumb to how the boat sits in the water at idle(the speed you should be using for the best definition on the screen). I think that is 1 to 4 mph. Contrast, brightness and sensitivity settings are all important(speaking in relation to one another) . Other items on your transom can block part of your sonar beam.( lower units, ladders even livewell drains)The smaller the range you have set the better your returns will be. A view range of 200’ ,fish will look like a tiny piece of lint. Cut that in half it might look like a small grain of rice. If you are looking for hard bottom to stand out, (like shell beds)experiment with different color palates and contrast settings. SI has been around a long time and many topics are available on YouTube as well as Google. It is not cut and dried ”best settings” territory. It will be a process, not a lightbulb popping on. JMO Bob

[MainelySmallmouth]

Firstly, Don’t expect Onix to look as good as the current models. However older units were certainly more than adequate to your task. Installation of the transducer is critical. Level and plumb to how the boat sits in the water at idle(the speed you should be using for the best definition on the screen). I think that is 1 to 4 mph. Contrast, brightness and sensitivity settings are all important(speaking in relation to one another) . Other items on your transom can block part of your sonar beam.( lower units, ladders even livewell drains)The smaller the range you have set the better your returns will be. A view range of 200’ ,fish will look like a tiny piece of lint. Cut that in half it might look like a small grain of rice. If you are looking for hard bottom to stand out, (like shell beds)experiment with different color palates and contrast settings. SI has been around a long time and many topics are available on YouTube as well as Google. It is not cut and dried ”best settings” territory. It will be a process, not a lightbulb popping on. JMO Bob

Well said, ie the lightbulb. I continue to expect that, and it is part of my frustration that it hasn't happened. I starting to understand the impact distance has on clarity of what I see. I a recently have come to understand the impact of water depth on side imaging distance. I continue to play around with that. I am not a professional, ie don't spend every day on the water and don't fish tournaments, so 1080p clarity is not my goal, but I do spend a fair amount of time fishing (3 days per week minimum) so maximizing the tools on my boat is the goal. Even if I don't see fish, seeing structure and structure changes is the goal.

[MainelySmallmouth]

So I would say that I had my best day on the water with my SI graphing. On the bow, on my trolling motor graph, I dialed the settings WAY back to 30 to 35 out each side of the boat and finally started to see the definition I had seen on the store display graphs. Clear rock bottom definition, down timber, branches and other types of hard structure. This graph was set to 455, sharpness off, switch fire set to clear mode, and sensitivity and contrast on the mid range settings, with a brown / tan palate. The console graph, still toying with that. I had that one on 800, sharpness on (set to low), max mode on, and sensitivity and contract set on the higher settings. It was OK, but no where near as clear as the front graph. I am going to look at the rear transducer setting to make sure that it properly angled for use at 3 to 5 mph idling versus flat as the boat sits still in the water.

I think my last struggle is determining what a densely grass/weed/mush bottom looks like. I think my perception of what it should look like and what it actually looks like are two very different things. Appreciate all the help from everyone, I think I am getting there.