2001 Suzuki 9.9 Check engine light?

[BUZZMEUP]

Header should read 2021. Motor has about 6 hours and never had any problems until today. Started motor, always one pull, let it warm for several minutes and then idled thru a no wake zone. Applied the throttle and got up to 3500 rpm, ran for maybe 1 minute and motor cut back to idle and the check engine light came on. Stopped engine for about 30 seconds and restarted. Light went out and motor idle fine. It did this 3 more times. Strong stream coming from water pump and I checked the oil, full.
Motor is still under warranty however I would like some ideas why this is happening. Is there an audible alarm also??

Thanks in advance.

[billnorman1]

Here's a guess. If you have a key, turn it on. Remove the safety lanyard from the kill switch if there is one. Pull and snap it back off 7 times. Replace the lanyard.

[Moonlighter]

It sounds like its going into limp mode. I wouldnt run it again until this issue is sorted.

Is there any sequence to the flashing check engine light?

Usually it blinks in a sequence eg 2 flashes, slight pause, 3 flashes….. repeat. This gives you the fault code and this example is a 2-3 code. I have a list of the codes so can look it up once we know what code is flashing.

If it doesnt flash but stays on solid then best get it to the dealer. They will hook it up to the SDS system on the laptop that can read the log on the ecu and that should tell them what has been happening.

[BUZZMEUP]

No key, pull start. Thanks

[BUZZMEUP]

No flashing of light, burns steady. I think you are right about limp mode. I have another ECU that came on the motor (9.9) I replaced with the (20 hp) ECU up-grade. The motor has ran fine for 3 hours with the up-grade. I am going to switch it back and see what happens.

Thanks

[Moonlighter]

Ok…

Note: remember that the engine operating history is stored in whichever ecu it is using. So issues that arise when the 20hp ecu is being used are only going to be stored in that ecu. Same with the 9.9 ecu. Engine hours will also be separately recorded.

Did you check to see what other parts are different between the 9.9 and 20hp engines? I know that on the DF40-60 series there is an air intake restrictor plate that is significantly different between the two. And injectors.

[JoePA]

What moonlighter said. You cant just swap ECU as there are other things need to be replaced as well. this could be where your problem is coming from

[BUZZMEUP]

I replaced the air restrictor plate with the proper one for a 20 HP. I reinstalled the original 9.9 parts and it still went into limp mode. Currently in the shop with a 3 week wait for service. When I get the results of the problem I will post.

[BUZZMEUP]

I replaced the air restrictor plate with the proper one for a 20 HP. I reinstalled the original 9.9 parts and it still went into limp mode. Currently in the shop with a 3 week wait for service. When I get the results of the problem I will post.

Finally got the motor back. When I purchased this motor the dealer was suppose to go over a check list however it was not done. It was several weeks before I took the boat out, so before leaving home I started the engine and it ran for about 30 seconds.
I used the ears on a hose as I have for every other engine I have owned. That was a no-no, apparently I damaged the empella and after 4 hours it failed at high RPM,, so lesson learned at $257.00. At 73 yoa you can still learn.

[Moonlighter]

If you use the muffs, use the small round soft ones, the old style like first were used on Johnson’s many years ago. Make sure there is plenty of water pressure and run the water for a minute before starting the engine. These work best with Suzuki’s. And, put them on from the prop end (yes sounds strange but they seal better.

If you put the engine in a barrel of water, make sure the leg is in real deep, at least 3-4” above the cav plate.

NEVER start the engine with a hose attached to the flushing port. The flushing port is actually quite effective at flushing the engine without running the engine.

As far as I know all Suzukis can be flushed using muffs as described earlier. However, the best way to be sure what is safe and what isn’t for YOUR engine is to read your owner’s manual and see what it says there.

[BUZZMEUP]

Thanks Moonlighter for your reply. I was provided a copy of a service bulletin about the 3 to 4 inch level. I used the old style muffs however I did not left the water run as you suggested and I put them on from the nose cone side. Never knew it had a flushing port until the mechanic mentioned it. Did not get a owners manual from dealer. Called Suzuki and they sent me one. Just out of caution I will use a barrel if needed.
Thanks again.

[billnorman1]

I have seen this before. Any motor, Suzuki included would rather pump air than water. You must completely cover both sides of the water pickup with muffs or it won't pump well. Taking the prop off and using a bucket is best.