Mercury 200 EFI about to drive me crazy!!!!

[Haughton]

Don and Joe usually recommend removing, there is a jumper between switch boxes to install and you have to complete a lync and sync process to adjust timing

Believe the boxes are not designed for todays fuels and can cause issues

[sroberts1990]

Ok so I have ordered the correct hose kit, I received the DVA meter today and have tested the following....
1. Tested all coils per service manual
2. Tested switch boxes per service manual
3. Tested low and high speed stator per service manual
4. Tested air temp switch per service manual
5. Removed vacuum hose from ecm and cleaned port on motor with cleaner.
6. All sync and timing was checked the other day.

I'm starting to believe my issue may actually has a lot to do with the pinched hose considering the relief valve is down stream of it. Or that is my thought at least.
I open to any input anyone has
Sean

[JOE54]

The high pressure return hose on the right looks pinched?

agree , this will result in higher unregulated fuel psi, and loose those screw clamps get the right ones , removing the modules eliminates chances of timing hang ups from electronics

[sroberts1990]

So i replaced the fuel lines with the correct molded hoses and BINGO!!! my problems were solved. Thanks to everyone for all the knowledge and help you provided. It blows my mind that after returning the boat to the so called Mercury dealer that this could not be figured out.
Sean

[Haughton]

Good deal. Enjoy

[sroberts1990]

is there a write up on the procedure to index the timing on the flywheel to verify exact timing on all 6 cylinders? I can grasp the concept of marking the flywheel in degrees but I'm not sure at what degree each cylinder should be firing. I have removed the modules and just want to make sure none of the cylinders are over 25* in timing.
Sean

[EuropeanAM]

There is a timing tape you can buy- and it can be used for the markings for each cylinder. That being said- manually checking each cylinder's TDC Mark and scribing them to the flywheel permits you to check the WOT timing for each and every cylinder, making sure that no cylinder exceeds the maximum timing advance.

This is especially wise when trying to run near that 25 degree mark.

[sroberts1990]

Ok so I’m back. I removed the detonation controller and the idle advance module from the engine. I set the max timing to 23* as advised. The gray/white wire from the ecm is ran to ground as advised. The boat runs well but now I am getting a random alarm at or above 4000 rpm. It randomly comes and goes in short little burst (of no pattern at all). I disconnected each alarm (oil tank, temp and rotational) and the alarm still came and went. What I did notice is when I would adjust the trim it seemed that rpm would drop slightly while the button was pushed. I am think this is a ground problem. Thoughts? Also do I need to do anything with the harness side of the green wire the detonation box was attached to? I ran the boat on the water all day and know for sure it was getting oil. Any direction or advice is much appreciated.
Sean

[JOE54]

water psi ????? leave green disconnected , check and clean all grnds on mtr

[sroberts1990]

I need to add that i also check the water in fuel sensor as well and the random alarm was there while it was disconnected too.
Sean

[sroberts1990]

water pressure was normal at like 4-6 at idle rpm and 12-15 running. i drove the boat over 40 miles around Galveston Bay that day.

[Haughton]

Do you have the water probe on your spin-on fuel filter? Doesn't show that filter changed in your original post of items replaced. Just a thought

[sroberts1990]

I removed that wire as well during my diagnostics and the alarm was still there. It was the fact that when I attempted to trim the motor and noticed a loss of RPM at WOT that leads me to believe it is a ground issue as I just removed the detonation and idle advance modules. Prior to that there was no problem with the random alarm. Oh, and I also replaced the starter at the same time.

[sroberts1990]

So I checked every ground and checked the sensors again. I found the following and I'm a little baffled.

1. Oil revisor cap test correctly on the multi meter but fails to set off the alarm.
2. Oil pump rotation sensor sets the alarm when disconnected.
3. Checked temp sensor with heat gun and got the alarm.
4. Attempted to test the water in fuel sensor by grounding the tan wire connected to it with no luck.
5. Checked continuity of all wires from source to alarm module.
6. Removed alarm module and replaced with a spare I had on hand with the same results.

I have not water tested yet to see if the random alarm is still there but I am concerned about the other alarms not working now.
Really debating on just removing all or the alarms and oil injection. I plan on repowering in the next year or two.

[leonreno]

Maybe someone can confirm but I believe there is an over voltage alarm too and maybe an under voltage alarm. Maybe test your voltage whil running and when not running.

[JOE54]

was engine running when oil cap and water sensor tested ????? voltage will be supplied on green wire to module when running , wouldnt remove oiler fix it

[JOE54]

no low or high volt alarm

[sroberts1990]

Joe the key was in the on position, but the engine was not running but the alarm did sound when the rotation sensor was disconnected. I will test with the engine running this afternoon and report back. As far as the water in fuel separator sensor... the manual states to ground the tan wire for 10 seconds and the light and alarm should activate, does this require the engine to be running as well?

[JOE54]

no sir

[sroberts1990]

If this module is not functioning, will it cause the others to not work properly? It seems to run parallel to the oil reservoir sensor