Thread: SHO Power Trim

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  1. #1
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    SHO Power Trim

    On a 2014 SHO 250. VF250LA. Engine has 370 hours. Trim struggles on last inch of down stroke. Pump gets a little slow on last few degrees of down. Up stroke is normal and fast. Checked fluid and it needed about 3 ounces to fill reservoir (was low in fluid). Sometimes down trim acts normal with no struggle, maybe the added fluid will correct issue after a few trips on it. Battery is fully charged and does not seem to enter the issue, even when on charger. So topping the fluid seemed to really help. Looking forward, what might the issue be? Could the pump filter need to be changed, pump may be dying or pump motor issue? Can the pump assy be changed without removing the whole trim unit from the engine bracket? Trying to get in front of the issue to limit down time if it occurs. Thanks BBCers.


    RangerZ - IONIC Batteries, Lithiumhub.com

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    #2
    I would disconnect, inspect and clean every PTT system electrical connection point on the motor. Positives and grounds.

    Prior to doing that however, you may want to measure the voltage on the output side of the trim and tilt relay. With the relay activated and powering the pump motor. Just to see what is to be seen. It should be close to battery voltage.

    The battery is powering the trim and tilt pump motor when it has been activated.


  3. Member
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    #3
    Battery voltage stays between 13.-13.1 volts. AMP draw is 30-40 AMPS. When "up" trim it's 20-21 AMPS. When "bottom" trim it gets higher 30-40 AMPS. After trimming up and down a couple times it gets "normal". Very first couple trims "early morning etc." is when it struggles. Trim works every time the switch is used, control button, blinker trim, and at the engine cowling button.


    RangerZ - IONIC Batteries, Lithiumhub.com

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    #4
    Sounds normal to me. Mine has been that way since new.

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    #5
    Bought New in 2014. Never even 1 issue. It just started doing this a couple weeks ago. Started fishing early Feb. average 3-4 days a week. Just trying to plan for a problem with it. I've ask if the pump motor and pump body can be changed out without removing the complete trim unit. Since I know the trim fluid is full and all connections are good I'm kinda stumped on it. Seems only 370 hours I should not be having a issue with trim. Any help appreciated.


    RangerZ - IONIC Batteries, Lithiumhub.com

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    #6
    The pump motor and the pump body can be removed in situ but I find it easier to remove the entire assembly and do the dismantling on a work bench.

    Although it might seem counter intuitive, the pump motor will draw more current when trimming down than up.

    If it gets "more normaller" after a few cycles maybe that is an indicator of something binding. Perhaps a bad bushing?

    Hours of use on a trim and tilt motor are not the key driver with respect to wear and tear. It is cycles. Some saltwater guys might put hundreds of hours on their motor(s) while only having a relatively few trim and tilt cycles. A bass boater would have higher cycles of use I suppose.

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    #7
    Maybe inspect the friction washers for wear and tear. Maybe pull out the bottom pin and inspect the bushings there.


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    #8
    yam911, I'm with you on something like a bushing deal. I don't think it's the pump motor. The last inch or so of the trim extender rods pushing down is when it cries a little. I don't know if the piston's on those trim rods could be what's going on. I think that is when the most pressure is created. Since the motor amp draw is less than 50 amps pushing down seems could be ok, and the amps may be too high because of the pressure. Should the motor be drawing more than 30 amps either direction. And what bushing would be suspect? Kinda hate to see something completely fail before finding a cause. All help appreciated!


    RangerZ - IONIC Batteries, Lithiumhub.com

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    #9
    What should a trim unit rebuild cost? I know there are many ways to look at it. With only 380 hours on engine, no detectible leaks, motor operates fine etc. Can the trim fluid be flushed to get rid of possible moisture or contaminants? Still working but something is not right with it.


    RangerZ - IONIC Batteries, Lithiumhub.com

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    #10
    No idea as to a rebuild cost.

    The system can be flushed, but not easily.

    Have you thought about removing the T&T assembly to see how the unit functions on a work bench? Not that big of a deal in the scheme of some things. If the unit acts as it acts now, it is the unit. If the unit functions normally on a bench then something might be amiss in the motor. The bushing for instance.

    Another thought is to support the motor fully up with a trailer device. Remove the pin that is holding the tilt piston to the motor. Activate the down trim to see if the unit acts the same or if there is a change.

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    #11
    No changes on last few trips and up and down activation off the water. I decided to run the trim tilt full up and then doing a "manual" release. Engine goes fully down without the least noise or hesitation. Did this several times and everything is just totally smooth. I've loosened all electrical connections and the Positive-Negative connections from the battery and Trim Relay module, everything looks perfect. When trimming full down and letting the pump motor run a little longer, couple seconds the switch stop's working for maybe 2 seconds then I can run the engine back up. Could this mean the relay is breaking down, the motor breaking down or pump issue. Clearly no bad bushings or binding is occurring as the manual release let's engine go up and down very smooth. Looking for an answer. Thanks all.


    RangerZ - IONIC Batteries, Lithiumhub.com

  12. Member
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    #12
    Problem solved! The Pump Motor was giving the issue. Up trim always worked fine and quick. The last 1-1/2 inch of Down Trim was very slow, the motor sounded like it was struggling to get the last few degrees of travel. Found a Trim Motor on Amazon for $65 bucks. It works exactly like the Yamaha motor when new, fast and smooth. The only issue with the new trim motor was the wire harness was to short. I used the old motor wire to extend the harness with sealable butt connectors and shrink wrap. Perfect fix for less than $75 bucks. Happy now! And the new motor is an exact look alike. Engine had 350 hours on it when the issue started. Hoping it last for a couple years.


    RangerZ - IONIC Batteries, Lithiumhub.com