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  1. #1
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    Fluoro vs. braid for Carolina rig

    I know a lot of people don't throw a Carolina rig anymore, and honestly, I haven't thrown one I quite a while. I started throwing one again, and caught a 6.5lb at Eufaula, and did really good catching spots at Lanier.

    Currently I'm running I think 20lb yozuri topknot. Here's where my question comes in. I was making really long cast yesterday, and I had several fish pull off, that I felt I set the hook really good into. I'm wondering if the fluoro isn't stretching and not providing a good hookset? The other reason for thinking of the switch is abrasion resistance. I know it's unavoidable, but the fluoro is getting really chewed up in the rocks, just above the swivel. I'm wondering if braid would help with that.

    I usually run mono for a leader, and I know it's probably not a popular opinion, but I feel it helps the worm float a little better. Thanks for the help guys, and here a few we caught on then over the past week.
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    #2
    I don't throw a Carolina rig much, but when I do I always use a braid mainline to a mono leader. Like you, I like the mono leader because it floats and I feel it keeps the bait a little higher. I use the braid for a few reasons. First, I feel I can cast further with braid. Second, like you mentioned, on a long cast you can get a better hookset due to the lack of stretch in braid. Third, most braids also float and I feel like with braid less of the line is dragging along the bottom and therefore less of the line is running directly over the rocks, leading to fewer issues with nicks and fraying on the line.

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    #3
    I use the C-rig for deep (20'+) smallmouth, especially in windy conditions/chop. 30# braid to swivel, then 2'-4' of #10-#15 Seaguar Red fluoro leader to a 3/0 EWG. Rod is 7'6" MH and I sweep set and just hold pressure. Don't lose many and the braid is essential for feel in those conditions.

  4. Member
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    #4
    I have thrown the CR alot especially in the middle of the year. I like braid for the reasons you have noted - abrasion resistance, ease of casting, etc and a mono leader. I actually only use 12 lb mono for leader just to give me the oppurtunity to break off and only lose the hook and plastic versus the weight, swivel, beads and clacker. Sometimes it works out sometimes not. My CR reels are going on 2-3 years with the same braid also.

  5. Member
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    #5
    Fluoro is more abrasion resistant than braid. I have started using the Sunline Structure FC flurocarbon. It's very good for carolina rig fishing.
    2016 Ranger RT188, Yamaha 115 sho, dual console, 80# Ultrex, hotfoot, networked HB Solix 10 & Helix 9, Mega 360. Powertech NRS3 18p, Atlas 4" jack plate.

  6. Member
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    #6
    Always found Flouro was much more durable than braid. Any breaks I had using braid was where the weight was at, wearing thru it.

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    #7
    same here brushsjigs, the weight sliding seems to wear out the braid faster than fluro.

  8. Member DrewFlu33's Avatar
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    #8
    I was using braid on my Carolina Rig for a couple years as the feel is just incredible and, as you mention, hooksets are no sweat. The problem is that I was hanging up, a LOT. So I tried going to fluoro, and had moderate success. Definitely not hanging up as much--I think the lack of stretch in the braid just means it's way easier to wedge your sinker in rocks--but there was a massive decline in sensitivity and I felt that I struggled getting a good hookset. Around the same time while trying to learn about ripping a crankbait through grass, I started figuring out that there were some pretty drastic differences in fluoro between brands, both in terms of diameter for a given lb test rating and in terms of stretch. The first thing isn't that big of a deal as you can just buy based on diameter, but the second thing is a lot harder to get around.

    Long story short, after a lot of research and trial and error, I went to using Shooter as my main line in 18 lb test and have been really, really happy with it. It's really tough and really low stretch so it holds up well getting drug through rocks,and the sensitivity and hooksets are on point, but it gives enough that I'm not hanging up all the time like I was with braid. The only real complaint I have is that it behaves a little worse than some other fluoros, though I think this is sort of unavoidable. My experience has generally been that the more well-behaved fluoro is, the more stretch and less abrasion resistance it seems to have. I think it's probably fairly unavoidable until someone comes up with a new manufacturing method or outright new material for fishing line. KVD line and lure sprayed on the spool several times while filling the reel and sprayed on the spool the night before a fishing trip solves the handling issues.

    I've almost bought the Sunline Structure to try on several occasions as it's cheaper than Shooter and, according to Sunline's spider charts they put together for their different types of line, seems like it would work even better for this. I've always stopped short of actually getting it as I always end up back on the "if it ain't broke..." mindset.
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  9. Member
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by TwinStick View Post
    I know a lot of people don't throw a Carolina rig anymore, and honestly, I haven't thrown one I quite a while. I started throwing one again, and caught a 6.5lb at Eufaula, and did really good catching spots at Lanier.

    Currently I'm running I think 20lb yozuri topknot. Here's where my question comes in. I was making really long cast yesterday, and I had several fish pull off, that I felt I set the hook really good into. I'm wondering if the fluoro isn't stretching and not providing a good hookset? The other reason for thinking of the switch is abrasion resistance. I know it's unavoidable, but the fluoro is getting really chewed up in the rocks, just above the swivel. I'm wondering if braid would help with that.

    I usually run mono for a leader, and I know it's probably not a popular opinion, but I feel it helps the worm float a little better. Thanks for the help guys, and here a few we caught on then over the past week.
    I like braid on a c rig, but to me it has disadvantages. Seems to me it cuts into the stumps at Santee more than a mainline of fluoro or mono. And you mention rocks, seems like the braid was cut easier on rocks. You may have a different experience, maybe it'll work with gravel, but I noticed even fishing sandy areas the braid seemed to wear close to the swivel. I've used a short piece of thin plastic tubing over the line in front of the swivel to address this.

    I typically use a fluoro leader, but mono will work, it's all we had in the old days. I don't think you're going to see a difference with your worm "floating better", unless you're using a buoyant worm like a ZMan. Most soft plastics will either pop off the bottom and sink or basically drag the bottom.

  10. Member
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    Jul 2004
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    #10
    Usually 17lb flouro and a 12 or sometimes 14 lb flouro leader for me. Used to do the same weights with mono before I started using flouro I still throw it a decent amount. I've always used standard Gammie round bend worm hooks which I think are a little lighter wire and typically don't have any hookup problems. I've tried offset hooks before and haven't had the same luck. I crig a lot of smaller stuff like Zoom centipedes, ringers and 4" lizards.

  11. Member
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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by DrewFlu33 View Post
    I was using braid on my Carolina Rig for a couple years as the feel is just incredible and, as you mention, hooksets are no sweat. The problem is that I was hanging up, a LOT. So I tried going to fluoro, and had moderate success. Definitely not hanging up as much--I think the lack of stretch in the braid just means it's way easier to wedge your sinker in rocks--but there was a massive decline in sensitivity and I felt that I struggled getting a good hookset. Around the same time while trying to learn about ripping a crankbait through grass, I started figuring out that there were some pretty drastic differences in fluoro between brands, both in terms of diameter for a given lb test rating and in terms of stretch. The first thing isn't that big of a deal as you can just buy based on diameter, but the second thing is a lot harder to get around.

    Long story short, after a lot of research and trial and error, I went to using Shooter as my main line in 18 lb test and have been really, really happy with it. It's really tough and really low stretch so it holds up well getting drug through rocks,and the sensitivity and hooksets are on point, but it gives enough that I'm not hanging up all the time like I was with braid. The only real complaint I have is that it behaves a little worse than some other fluoros, though I think this is sort of unavoidable. My experience has generally been that the more well-behaved fluoro is, the more stretch and less abrasion resistance it seems to have. I think it's probably fairly unavoidable until someone comes up with a new manufacturing method or outright new material for fishing line. KVD line and lure sprayed on the spool several times while filling the reel and sprayed on the spool the night before a fishing trip solves the handling issues.

    I've almost bought the Sunline Structure to try on several occasions as it's cheaper than Shooter and, according to Sunline's spider charts they put together for their different types of line, seems like it would work even better for this. I've always stopped short of actually getting it as I always end up back on the "if it ain't broke..." mindset.
    Drew, wondering if you tried Abrazx in your experimenting with different fluorocarbon lines. I need to spool my Dragger for the season and have some Abrazx on order... thx

  12. Member DrewFlu33's Avatar
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by FryDog62 View Post
    Drew, wondering if you tried Abrazx in your experimenting with different fluorocarbon lines. I need to spool my Dragger for the season and have some Abrazx on order... thx
    I did not. I know this is probably ridiculous, but I've had some bad luck with Seaguar line throughout the years that makes me shy away from it. Essentially 2 out of 4 spools of it were just bad...like break 12 lb test between your bare hands bad. One was a spool of Invisx and one was a spool of their STS leader material, the latter of which I didn't notice was bad until it snapped when I leaned into probably the biggest steelhead I've ever had hold of after nearly an hour of trying to get it to bite. Too many people have good luck with their stuff for me to really believe it's a common problem, and clearly there are bad spools of fluoro from other manufacturers as well, it's just a mental thing where I have a hard time trusting Seaguar. I'm sure the Abrasx will work well!
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    #13
    I appreciate the good discussion. I think I'm going to try the sunline structure and see how it does.
    Phoenix 919/Sho 225/solix 15s/ultrex/blades

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    #14
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  15. Member Walkabout7781's Avatar
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    #15
    Here in the PNW, there are or were a lot of guys doing "brass 'n glass" light C-rig with 6 or 8 lb test main line and spinning gear. I did it for some years before braid came out, and thought it would be great. Got a spool of Cabela's 16 lb braid (Evolution?) and spooled it up, using my normal 8 lb monofil leaders. Tried that off & on for a whole season and only caught one small bass on it.

    I set the hook often, but no fish resulted. Finally, I realized that what I was feeling was not fish biting, but dragging the sinker across ancient cedar bark...because I'd hooked several chunks of it and pulled it in. It fights really well, by the way. Every lake around here was used as a mill pond at some time in the past. The bark either falls off or is knocked off, and sinks to the bottom. Cedar bark feels exactly like a bass biting. I changed back to monofil. IMO, it was a case of "sensory overload" with the braid.

    FWIW, on my baitcaster C-rig outfit, I used 14 lb. Pradco SST in the past (admittedly large for the lb. test), with a Berkley XL 14 lb test. Worked well, and I never broke the main line. Berkley monofil isn't very strong or abrasion resistant (IMO), which is the reason I used it. These days, I'd probably use 17 lb. P-Line CXX for the main line and a 10 lb test monofil leader.
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    #16
    Use those yellow catfish rubber knot protectors in front of your swivel. They are cpl bucks for a dozen or so in a pack. Owner 5101 style hooks. Never set the hook. Drag the fish until he/she starts loading up AND THEN pull/sweep set if you need to. Normally the fish has choked it pretty good so a hook set isn’t really needed.

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    #17
    Someone posted here last year - the thin, clear plastic sleeves that fit over the first few inches of the line above the swivel to protect against abrasion.... anyone remember?

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    #18
    I use Big Game on main line with a fluoro leader.

  19. Member white gambler's Avatar
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    #19
    Could use a bobber stop in front of weight on mainline to avoid the weight running up and down the line and wearing the braid out.
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  20. Member
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    #20
    Quote Originally Posted by barrys View Post
    Use those yellow catfish rubber knot protectors in front of your swivel. They are cpl bucks for a dozen or so in a pack. Owner 5101 style hooks. Never set the hook. Drag the fish until he/she starts loading up AND THEN pull/sweep set if you need to. Normally the fish has choked it pretty good so a hook set isn’t really needed.
    Solid advice on the hook set. I've done it that way since one of the best riggers I've ever fished with was wearing me out one day, he wasn't getting more bites but he was catching all that bit and I was losing half of mine. He told me to take over his tm and hed get on the back deck so he could see what I was doing wrong. The way he explained it to me is, that if you don't get the weight off the bottom before the hookset it would cause a pendulum/sling shot effect and rip the bait out of their mouth before the hook point gets a chance to leave the plastic. I was always afraid the fish would notice the weight and spit, but thats not been my experience. I've had them hook themselves in practice when I wasn't trying to stick them because they'll actually start to chomp down harder when they feel the extra pressure.

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