2006 Nitro 482 - Wiring Help - Need to add a Battery + 4 Bank Charger + 2 Graphs

[Kylo2021]

Hello All,
I've been researching for some time now, and I'm new to the forum. Current Set up is, Designated battery for the Motor in the back for starting. Two (12volt) batteries inline set up in the bow for the TM. I only have a 2 bank charger set up on the bow for the 2 TM batteries and the main battery. It charges all 3 even though its a 2 bank. Previous owner set it up this way. I purchased a small 5-inch graph to swap the original one in the console (I wont be pulling many amps with this), and a 10in Garmin for the Bow (plan to add panoptix down the road). I'm trying to figure out best way to power the graphs and if i can set up some extra juice should I need it for the future. See my ideas below. I'm new to all this stuff and have done some homework before reaching out for help, but I'm not an electrician :) Thanks in advance for your input on this.

Option #1) Add a 3rd (12 volt) to the bow and have it be used just for the graphs, and add a upgrade the 2 bank to a 4 bank?

Option #2) Add a second larger battery in the back and run it inline with the current battery used for my motor to start. Add a 2 position switch so i can control it's use at all times and reserve a if i need it, and Run an inline fuse on positive cable next to the battery to a new dedicated fuse box. Run from my fuse box to the graphs and leave some space in the fuse box should i decide to add more later? Also, add the 4 bank charger in the bow where the 2 bank currently is.

Option #3) Add a second larger battery in the back and just run it to the graphs. Add 4 bank charger in the bow where the 2 bank currently is.

Option #4) If you have an easier and better way please tell me. I'm an open book. Thanks

[AndrewM-Fishing]

You definitely want all of the electronics separate from the rest of the boat. Hands down best way to accomplish this is to run 8awg from the start battery to a dedicated fuse panel under the console. Connect all graphs to the dedicated panel and fuse appropriately. Depending on the size of the current start/house battery you need to calculate what you will be drawing in amps throughout the day and then double that number. Ideally having a dedicated 100ah lithium would be the best route but adding another lead/agm in parallel isn't going to burn the wallet.

I'm running 2 12's, m360, and the rest of the boat off of 2 g24's in parallel. I've never had an issue with 10 hour days but going the lithium route this year.

[wareagle24]

I'm a little confused. Are you saying the 2 batteries that you have now for the TM are wired parallel or in series?

[Kylo2021]

They have jumper wiring set up. So 2 (12volts) connected together by the jumpers

[Kylo2021]

Yeah i figured this would be the common answer. Problem is this will entail rewiring the entire boat. Do you think i would be ok to start with Option 1 or option 3 until the fall when i have more time and I'm not out on the water every spare minute I have? Just wanna make sure its still safe to run this way. In the fall or winter I can worry about rewiring the boat to a new fuse box maybe? Thoughts on this?

[wareagle24]

They have jumper wiring set up. So 2 (12volts) connected together by the jumpers

But that still doesn't answer if they are wired in series or parallel.

2-12 volt batteries wired in series will have one jumper wire from the positive of one battery to the negative of the other. This is how you get 24 volts.

2-12 volt batteries wired parallel will have a jumper from the positive of one battery to the positive of the other battery. Same way on the negative side. This is still 12 volts not 24. Is your trolling motor a 12 volt or a 24 volt?

[Kylo2021]

I have a 24 colt TM

[Kylo2021]

If I'm going to run a small 5inch at the console, 10 inch Garmin with panoptix at the bow, would i be ok to run direct to my main starting battery, or should i just add another dedicated battery for my graphs? Thanks