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  1. #1
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    The best battery cut off switch?

    I’m looking to add a master cut off switch to my bassboat and was looking for suggestions thanx

  2. Member 06 SB's Avatar
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    #2
    Blue Sea 187 in the proper amps. It is designed as both a switch and a breaker. It eliminates the need for both. The fewer connections the better.

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    #3
    I like the ruggedness and quality of the perko switches.

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    #4
    Do y’all mount straight to lug on battery or mount it remote?

  5. Member Mechanic Bob's Avatar
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    #5
    I have had issues with Perko, do not over tighten the lugs. I recommend the Blue Sea items!
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  6. BBC SPONSOR/ Shallow Water Anchors Moderator
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    #6
    Our K and K Master cut off switch with 6Ga ga marine grade tinned positive cable would be ideal. Can be seen on our website kandkkustomz.com $34.99 for the pair.

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    #7
    Agreed, Blue Sea 187.

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  8. Member 06 SB's Avatar
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Lil’erRed View Post
    Do y’all mount straight to lug on battery or mount it remote?
    Basscat rigs them with a metal bar from the breaker to the battery post. Less connections, less chance of corrosion and better chance of clean power.
    Last edited by 06 SB; 03-06-2022 at 09:06 PM.

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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Lil’erRed View Post
    Do y’all mount straight to lug on battery or mount it remote?
    Remote. About 12 to 16 inches from the battery terminal. I also use the Blue Sea 187 style. I mount them on the side of my battery compartment.

    I use 1 for my 36V trolling motor system. As soon as I pull the boat out of the water I trip the breaker. This one have a 6 GA or so jumper wire to the battery.

    I just ran new 10 GA wires to the console to a Blue Sea terminal block. At the battery I put a breaker/switch. This will power my new graphs. Same story, I plan to trip the breaker each time I get off the water.

  10. Member wareagle24's Avatar
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    #10
    As others have said, Blue Sea 187.

  11. Member
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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by nicapopolis View Post
    Remote. About 12 to 16 inches from the battery terminal. I also use the Blue Sea 187 style. I mount them on the side of my battery compartment.

    I use 1 for my 36V trolling motor system. As soon as I pull the boat out of the water I trip the breaker. This one have a 6 GA or so jumper wire to the battery.

    I just ran new 10 GA wires to the console to a Blue Sea terminal block. At the battery I put a breaker/switch. This will power my new graphs. Same story, I plan to trip the breaker each time I get off the water.
    Same here.

  12. Member RazorCat's Avatar
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    #12
    BEP 701S
    https://www.bepmarine.com/en/p/701S/...-Select-Switch
    Ranger was using them. IDK now. 4-way Mini switch with 200A rating.
    I use the 701S (OFF/BATT 1/BATT 2/BATT1&2) because of the smaller overall size, and the fact it has 5/16” (M8) posts vs. 3/8” (M10) posts the ON/OFF only switches use.
    The BEP 701 is a 2-way (ON/OFF). Same size with 3/8” studs.
    https://www.bepmarine.com/en/p/701/C...-Master-Switch

    Main power cut-off in the Sabre FTD.
    1F50274E-48B4-4DCF-8EB8-D462BD231451.jpeg

    Cut-off for dedicated electronics wiring to the console breaker panel and graph, and bow electronics.
    00961F94-A469-4194-8FB9-A98B3D528318.jpeg
    Last edited by RazorCat; 03-07-2022 at 10:07 AM.
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  13. Member RazorCat's Avatar
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by 06 SB View Post
    Basscat rigs them with a metal bar from the breaker to the battery post. Less connections, less chance of corrosion and better chance of clean power.
    Like this.
    Attachment 482689
    BCB uses a somewhat heavier buss bar from battery post to switch than the one I got with this MG 60A TM breaker and switch.
    They sell them as a separate item for $2.50 each.
    https://basscatstore.com/breakerbar.aspx
    Same as pictured attached to the breaker.
    https://basscatstore.com/powercableforgraphs.aspx
    BassCat Sabre FTD
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  14. Member ifishinxs's Avatar
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    #14
    [QUOTE=RazorCat;12381210]BEP 701S
    https://www.bepmarine.com/en/p/701S/...-Select-Switch
    Ranger was using them. IDK now. 4-way Mini switch with 200A rating.
    I use the 701S (OFF/BATT 1/BATT 2/BATT1&2) because of the smaller overall size, and the fact it has 5/16” (M8) posts vs. 3/8” (M10) posts the ON/OFF only switches use.
    The BEP 701 is a 2-way (ON/OFF). Same size with 3/8” studs.
    https://www.bepmarine.com/en/p/701/C...-Master-Switch

    Main power cut-off in the Sabre FTD.
    1F50274E-48B4-4DCF-8EB8-D462BD231451.jpeg

    Cut-off for dedicated electronics wiring to the console breaker panel and graph, and bow electronics.
    00961F94-A469-4194-8FB9-A98B3D528318.jpeg[/QUOTE


    Same switches in my Vexus
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  16. Member
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    #16
    I just shut the breaker off

  17. Member
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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by KandKKustomz View Post
    I have a start battery that engine, electronics and boat accessories are wired to, would your switch work to shut off power to all ?

  18. Member
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    #18
    [QUOTE=ifishinxs;12386333]
    Quote Originally Posted by RazorCat View Post
    BEP 701S
    https://www.bepmarine.com/en/p/701S/...-Select-Switch
    Ranger was using them. IDK now. 4-way Mini switch with 200A rating.
    I use the 701S (OFF/BATT 1/BATT 2/BATT1&2) because of the smaller overall size, and the fact it has 5/16” (M8) posts vs. 3/8” (M10) posts the ON/OFF only switches use.
    The BEP 701 is a 2-way (ON/OFF). Same size with 3/8” studs.
    https://www.bepmarine.com/en/p/701/C...-Master-Switch

    Main power cut-off in the Sabre FTD.
    1F50274E-48B4-4DCF-8EB8-D462BD231451.jpeg

    Cut-off for dedicated electronics wiring to the console breaker panel and graph, and bow electronics.
    00961F94-A469-4194-8FB9-A98B3D528318.jpeg[/QUOTE


    Same switches in my Vexus
    Very similar to what I did for the power to the engine/starter but my switch is a "key" switch. If I remove the plastic key the engine cannot be easily started.

    The exception on mine vs Razor being a 40 amp switch breaker to dual fuse boxes (also dual negative buses) for all the circuits regarding electronics/lights, etc. I used 12ga/14 GA wire for each circuit vs the lighter gauge they used originally at the factory.

    I set mine up where all the wiring runs terminated at the fuse boxes/negative buses at the stern in a central location within 18" of the dedicated lights/electronics battery for ease of access (vs that bloody factory fuse block UNDER the console). I avoided common grounds so each circuit has an individual ground terminating at the negative buses. All joints are either direct soldered or solder shrink tubing with additional shrink tubing over the solder tubing. Definite overkill vs the factory wiring I totally replaced etc.

    Probably not how most would have set things up (or considered correct). However, everything works 100% and has for several years now without a single fouled circuit, blown fuse, tripped breaker, or electrical interference with the graphs, etc.

    Also, my Ultrex is wired direct with a 60amp switchable breaker adjacent to the twin AGM's.

    As a result, I can switch off all the power by flipping one heavy duty switch and 2 switch breakers.

    Sorry for the long post. Not exactly what OP asked, but, might help somebody in the future set up their rig.... via a search, etc.
    Last edited by Slicefixer; 03-10-2022 at 07:52 AM.

  19. Member
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    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by unknown angler View Post
    I have a start battery that engine, electronics and boat accessories are wired to, would your switch work to shut off power to all ?
    Yes it will. That switch is a BEB 701. I have the same one but don't connect my engine to it simply because I like to have access to the trim switch at all times without having to climb into the bilge area to flip the switch on.
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  20. Member
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    #20
    Thank you, I will order one, just what I was looking for.

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